Won’t start.. (1 Viewer)

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Fire from the coil, fire from the end of the of the plug wire, fire at the plug- pulled the gas line to the carb and gas is coming out- site glass is half full.
Changed the fuel filter, plug wires and plugs, rotor and cap and put a new fuel pump on her about a year ago.
Ran this truck 200 miles this weekend, no problems.
I’ve always had to put starting fluid in the carb to fire her up everyday but after she warms up she starts quick, real quick.
Sounds like she wants to turn over in the start cycle but doesn’t… I’m at a loss. Any suggestions appreciated.
 
Is the idle circuit solenoid working? Turn the key to the on position then unplug the connector, touch the contacts together and see if you hear it clicking open a closed when making the connection. Look around the intake manifold for any vacuum hoses that may have come loose.
 
I never needed to use starting fluid in 30 years no matter what. The fact that sometimes you need to points to a fuel delivery problem at startup- even before this new non starting issue popped up.

Maybe…. the requirement to use starting fluid sometimes was the messenger that something is not right with the fuel delivery.
Fuel in the float bowl only means that. It’s no guarantee that that fuel will get into the combustion chambers in the right ratio
 
Is the idle circuit solenoid working? Turn the key to the on position then unplug the connector, touch the contacts together and see if you hear it clicking open a closed when making the connection. Look around the intake manifold for any vacuum hoses that may have come loose.
She has always idled high, around 1400 even after adjusting the carb idle screw, but lately its dropped and fluctuated to 800 - 1000. So turn the key on, unplug the ICS, and to short out the blades on the connector which is going to the carb and listen for a click?
 
I never needed to use starting fluid in 30 years no matter what. The fact that sometimes you need to points to a fuel delivery problem at startup- even before this new non starting issue popped up.

Maybe…. the requirement to use starting fluid sometimes was the messenger that something is not right with the fuel delivery.
Fuel in the float bowl only means that. It’s no guarantee that that fuel will get into the combustion chambers in the right ratio
I get it man- I'm sure the carb need rebuilding! But this rig ran 200 miles this weekend and i got around 15mpg. Oxford to Memphis and back (160 miles) plus driving around town, made it back to Oxford with a half a tank of non ethanol left! thx
 
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She has always idled high, around 1400 even after adjusting the carb idle screw, but lately its dropped and fluctuated to 800 - 1000. So turn the key on, unplug the ICS, and to short out the blades on the connector which is going to the carb and listen for a click?
Or to simplify, have a helper turn the key on and off repeatedly while you listen by the carb for the clicking.
 
Yours is probably a two wire solenoid? If so, the emission control module controls the ground side of the solenoid.
It clicks- I just turned to power on and disconnected the plug and plugged it back up and you could here the click. All vacuum hoses look attached...
 
Glad it’s now running.👍


So exactly what was the issue.
 

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