Wiring repair

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May 19, 2007
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Does anyone have a recommendation on how to fix this wiring. What gauge should I use? My dash light up and truck stalled. I m sure a rodent has gotten to my wires.

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What’s your skill level and OCD level with electrical connections? There’s the QUICK way and the RIGHT way…

It’s also hard to tell what’s going on there. Is it a midline break in the wire, or right at the back of a connector? Do you have the other end of those wires?
 
I am a right way guy. Photos came to me from my son. I will get back to truck this weekend and explore further. Not a lot of experience with wiring harnesses but can follow directions.
 
I am a right way guy. Photos came to me from my son. I will get back to truck this weekend and explore further. Not a lot of experience with wiring harnesses but can follow directions.
If it’s midline break, slip a piece of adhesive shrink tube over one side, strip and clean both ends bare exposing about 1/4”, tin them, overlap and solder together, then seal with the shrink tube.

If it’s at the connector, it will really depend on the type of connector, but these tools are your friends:

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That set of “keys” on the right can remove nearly any crimp connector from plastic connector housings

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And the tool on the left will crimp new ones on to the bare wire. Sometimes you get lucky and you can solder a broken bare wire back onto a brass terminal. I spent under $100 on a crimp kit and plastic box full of connector hardware, well worth it in the long run.
 
Looks like possible, wheel speed sensor (WSS) wire. If so, it would shut down ABS. You'll have a CEL for a DTC (code) indicating front right WSS. Could be AHC height sensor wire. Then you may have a AHC OFF light. If either; This would not cause engine to "stall" (shut-down) or even go into limp mode.

If you have about 1" remain, coming out of wire housing block. Use a butt solder splice.


If not enough wire remaining. Easiest & fastest, is to replace the wire housing block and pigtails. You can de-pin the pigtails from the wire housing block. But some, are a real PITA.
All wire housing blocks have a part number on them. Find it and add prefix 90980-*****, for full P/N. Then ask Toyota parts guy for it and associated pig-tails (wire leads).
 
I went OCD and bought "terminal pin" removal kit and removed the wiring & pin from the connector and spliced a new wire. Depending on how long the wire was broken, I've found that green corrosion will crawl up the wire and I am OCD about removing any corrosion. It is usually either 16 or 18 gauge wire. Just do one wire at a time to ensure you have the correct splicing. I am also OCD about soldering and wire protection. When I did the head gasket on my 80 series, I found so many cracked wires in my engine harness. I spliced at least 10 wires that had green crud. No misfires or codes afterwards.
 
This one looks pretty straightforward to fix. I presume this is why the highbeam light in the dash is constantly on. I think this attached to the resister the headlight recall called for. I need a little guide on next set of photos

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Looks like rodent was biting in the red circles areas. Not sure what this box circled in red is for. But could all these breaks cause the dash to light up and stall the vehicle?
Are these wire normally18 or 16 gauge?
What is the best approach to fixing them?

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If you’ve got multiple breaks in the wire and you can access its entire length, I’d just pull it all out (or abandon it in place) and make a new piece. You may get lucky and be able to fish new wire through the loom by pulling it with the old wire. If you’re not sure of the gauge, use 16. Might be overkill but you’ll never go wrong with slightly thicker wire.

If you instead decide to repair it, be super thorough about cleaning and tinning the ends you’re splicing together, then sealing with adhesive shrink tube. Each repair point is a possible source of resistance in the wire. Do not use crimp-on butt connectors. Those are for temporary field repairs, IMO
 
I appreciate the feedback, I got a new connector and need to figure out how to get terminals ends out of old connector. Any advice appreciated. I also now got the VSC off light on, check engine light, VSC trac light on. Can a break to the harness for the lights create other faults?
 
I appreciate the feedback, I got a new connector and need to figure out how to get terminals ends out of old connector. Any advice appreciated. I also now got the VSC off light on, check engine light, VSC trac light on. Can a break to the harness for the lights create other faults?

Yes, or maybe more accurately, any fault seems to throw the whole Christmas tree up. At least in my experience.

You need a terminal removal tool set to release the ends out of the connectors. Essentially little metal shivs that jam into the connector to release the little metal tab that holds the terminals in.
 
When you are all done, they make "Rodent Resistant" braided sleeves that are less appetizing for rodents. They are also split so you can "wrap" it and don't need loose ends. Cut them slightly long and so if it shrinks, it doesn't leave the ends too exposed.
 
Wire repaired . High beam light gone and the high beams work. Still have VSC lights. I also have check engine but gas tank has a leak no pressure in system. Any recommendations on what to check next? Mass air flow sensor? Drove car around the block did not stall.

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Ok car continues to stall while driving
Codes p101, p100, c1201
Any advice?
Mass air flow sensor related. Check and confirm no broken wires exist to the MAF sensor connection, since other wires were broken near that area. Clean MAF sensor
 

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