Wiring power for ham?

[Corbet]

Here is a pic of the fuse block I installed in the same spot as your original post. I ran 6 AWG to the fuse block to minimize voltage drop. Currently only the HAM radio and a few accessory 12v outlets are connected to the block. I have 3 circuits left for future items.

My Kenwood owner's manual does say to go directly to the battery as others have posted. So far I have had no problems with my set up. I have been meaning to test the voltage drop but have not yet made the time.

 

[Miescha]

I'm planning on a setup nearly identical to Corbet's in the near future. I've already purchased the same Blue Seas fuse panel and I was planning on running 4 gauge from my secondary battery to the same mounting location under the PS seat (the secondary is closer to the mounting location so less voltage drop). I'm planning to then use 10 gauge to all accessories including my mobile rig.

My question then, as I'm not an EE but a mere lowly /AG (and only for two days), how is my planned setup any different than running 10 gauge from my rig directly to the battery?

I'll have a fuse at/near the battery on the 4g and I'll simply have another fuse inside the truck at the panel where everything changes to 10g.

So in the end, I'll be using a combination of 4 gauge and 10 gauge (more than required by my rig) and I'll have a two fuses in the feed line instead of just one.

Moreover, I was planning to run 4 gauge back to the battery from the fuse panel and also ground the fuse panel under the center console as Corbet did. I also plan to run the ground from my rig back to the common ground on the fuse panel (which then goes back to the battery) and also ground the rig at a location near it's mounting point.

So please school me as to what I'm missing while I still have time to change my plans.

Thanks!

 

[Beowulf]

So please school me as to what I'm missing while I still have time to change my plans.

First, let me say that I wired my mobile amateur radio the same way that you have described so I believe that is a good approach and, in my case, there are no issues.

The thing that you are missing is that the purpose of running 10ga from the radio to the battery is to completely eliminate the possibility of any other device causing a problem with your radio. Adding a fuse panel between your radio and its power source is the issue. Why have another fuse panel if you don't plan to wire anything else to it? And, if you *do* wire something else to it, then you have added a possible source for interference with the radio.

-B-

 

[Miescha]

Ahhhh . . . the light comes on .

I do plan to run other items off the fuse panel - mostly a few additional 12v power points, CB radio, radar detector, etc. . .

I was focusing on power drop over the line, proper fusing, proper grounding, etc. . . and never even thought about frequency interference on the rig (can you tell I've only had my license for two days!).

Thanks Beo.

 

[MichaelArchangel]

Check your owner's manual - one should not - if you want to keep running your Ham Radio - use the cig.-lighter V12 dash outlet. Very poor future!! Wire to the battery truck or extra ONLY.= 12vdc / 18 amps+
All the best,
Michaelarchangel

 

[MichaelArchangel]

The cig. lighter wireing area is very un-safe. One should not go with the car/truck/SUV
gage of wire located within the cig. lighter out-let - many fires have started on many different years of trucks/cars from that location - use a fused heavier ga. wire = 8 or 12 ga. is great. Many of the wireing at the outlet is made in China = very light gage.
Best regards,
MichaelArchangel

 

[canucksafari]

With both of my rigs 24V, I will be wiring to a 12V AGM interior mounted 100 AmpHr battery which will be charged through a 24V-12V Voltage reducer. I am planning on adding a solar charging system in the future to ensure the battery gets a full charge without having to plug in a 110V battery charger regularly.