Wire connectors under starter - 1989 FJ 62 (1 Viewer)

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You are are at the mercy of my fading memory as I did this 7 yrs ago and have since sold that Cruiser so I can’t a look. Buy the relay @ Napa or similar, don’t get a cheap one. The black cover is just that, not necessary but a good idea for protection & to be tidy.

If memory serves 🙉 this is how I wired mine. Use whatever color you want, but do use the gauge suggested. My picture shows 4 different colors of wires. Yellow, red, green & black. A 4 pin relay is numbered 30, 85, 86, 87.

Unplug your wire from the starter solenoid. That’s your trigger, it gets power when you turn the key to start. 14g is fine this wire will connect to 86. Then attach a new 14g wire to that same attachment point you unplugged & connect to 87. Then run a new 12g wire to positive side of you battery & connect to 30. Then a new 14g wire to ground & connect to 85.

In my picture it is as follows.

30. Yellow 12g WITH A IN LINE FUSE to positive side of battery. USE THE IN LINE FUSE.
85. Black 14g to a good ground
86. Red 14g connect to the WIRE you unplugged (trigger)
87 Green 14g connect back to the ACTUAL solenoid

So there is always power to the relay via yellow wire and why you MUST have an in line fuse. This power will go nowhere until you trigger it with the key via 86 and then it opens up 87 and gives FULL power DIRECTLY from the battery to the starter. Varoom!

Here is a pic I picked up online. It’s describing Lights…in your case it will be your Starter.

There you go. It sounds intimidating for a novice but it’s actually very simple. Good luck.

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Units like this are very common too as many older American cars used these.

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The new heavier battery cable connects to the larger side posts (one to the battery, the other to the trigger terminal on the starter solenoid. One of the front posts is where you connect the OEM trigger wire that used to go to the starter.
 
First time I experienced a starter click with a hot car was with my 1975 Saab 99 because the starter was located under the headers. I replaced the starter over and over again each one warranted and it solved the problem for a few months and always came back. In the end an old school Saab tech set me up with the fender mount starter relay and I never had another hot start problem again.
That would very likely do it too if nothing else is working (or lasting) or you can't spend the money on a good battery. I haven't gotten to that point so haven't had to do that myself on the 62. Though I did do it to power a GM HEI module in my old Plymouth.

I'd have to double check the wiring diagrams, but I believe there already is a factory relay to provide more direct power to the starter solenoid (at least in the 62, though I would be surprised if the 60 doesn't have one as well). After 34+ years I'd be willing to bet the contacts in the starter are pretty burned up and scored from use, so simply replacing the relay could make a big difference as well. I'll have to look tomorrow, and if there is one I may just replace it for the sake of piece of mind. Then I can tear the original apart and see how the contacts look in it....
 
That would very likely do it too if nothing else is working (or lasting) or you can't spend the money on a good battery. I haven't gotten to that point so haven't had to do that myself on the 62. Though I did do it to power a GM HEI module in my old Plymouth.

I'd have to double check the wiring diagrams, but I believe there already is a factory relay to provide more direct power to the starter solenoid (at least in the 62, though I would be surprised if the 60 doesn't have one as well). After 34+ years I'd be willing to bet the contacts in the starter are pretty burned up and scored from use, so simply replacing the relay could make a big difference as well. I'll have to look tomorrow, and if there is one I may just replace it for the sake of piece of mind. Then I can tear the original apart and see how the contacts look in it....
In the FJ60 the starter solenoid is the relay. The circuit runs from a terminal on the ignition switch, to the starter solenoid, and a power feed from the battery with both grounding through the starter. The red line (I added for ease of eyes) is the wire that often degrades over time...its a small gage of wire and a reasonably long run). A new starter will likely solve the problem but if the trigger wire has degraded enough it may still be problematic.

IMO the nicest solution is to replace the stock wire with a heavier wire and new protective insulation so that everything looks stock. However its usually just easier to run the second relay...can get creative with locating it so it doesn't seem out of the ordinary.



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The 88 62 wiring diagram is similar:

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We were able to get her to start by using a positive jumper cable connected to the battery and the other end clamped onto a long flathead screw driver.

Be really careful to make sure the grounds don't ground on anything - we clamped both of them over the double cable sheath making sure the teeth didn't perforate the outer plastic cover.

One person underneath the car holding the screwdriver by the handle onto the positive terminal on the starter and second person turned the ignition and she fired right up. So, as suggested by everyone here we were losing too much power between the battery and the starter.

Next we tested continuity between the positive terminal on the battery and the terminal clamp and found we had very little continuity between the terminal and starter wire because there was so much corrosion on the terminal clamp, bolts and ring terminals. We used emory tape to sand/file each contact and clean them up, put it all back together and now she starts up without any problem.

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In the FJ60 the starter solenoid is the relay. The circuit runs from a terminal on the ignition switch, to the starter solenoid, and a power feed from the battery with both grounding through the starter. The red line (I added for ease of eyes) is the wire that often degrades over time...its a small gage of wire and a reasonably long run). A new starter will likely solve the problem but if the trigger wire has degraded enough it may still be problematic.

IMO the nicest solution is to replace the stock wire with a heavier wire and new protective insulation so that everything looks stock. However its usually just easier to run the second relay...can get creative with locating it so it doesn't seem out of the ordinary.



View attachment 3057908

The 88 62 wiring diagram is similar:

View attachment 3057910
Had to double check myself. Looks like I was mistaken. Given that, I would definitely add a relay that would provide enough current to the solenoid on the starter. If I start having the sticky starter issue again I'll go that route myself as well.
 

Matt, where are these connectors available from? I definitely want to get about 8 of them. I especially need one for my starter, just like your video shows. I’ve having to go under my Fj60 to wiggle the trigger wire to start it every time I drive somewhere. I live on a long gravel road that’s bumpy, and muddy, and full of potholes.
 
Matt, where are these connectors available from? I definitely want to get about 8 of them. I especially need one for my starter, just like your video shows. I’ve having to go under my Fj60 to wiggle the trigger wire to start it every time I drive somewhere. I live on a long gravel road that’s bumpy, and muddy, and full of potholes.
Matt

I'd like to get a few of those pigtails as well. Is that possible?


YES of course

please PM me

thanks !

UPDATE NOTE !

this Starter install kit NOW comes with a PIGTAIL for the gear reduction and older loaf of bread units too ~

AND the Battery cable RED boot for main starter LUG

exactly like PIC below shows , NOTE starter is photo prop tech only

if you need MORE of the electrical connector and YAZAKI detent ball terminals then STLLL pm me please

thanks





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I just replaced the starter pigtail on my FJ60 with one from https://forum.ih8mud.com/members/toyotamatt.25798/ . I have been having issues with the de-icer my town has been using corroding the wiring. It must have been happening for a while as my 60 now starts up in a heartbeat. It had been taking a while to start up. Thanks Matt for a great product. I didn't get any pictures of the repair but it is pretty straight forward.
 

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