Window "glue"

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Yes I did, happy to say ;)

Sorry to say that now the passenger window seems to have broken ;(

I never wrote up the tweaks and methods I went through, but will try to do a better job and post on the passenger window fix.

Since it is the wife's window and it is getting hot here I will be motivated to fix it soon...
 
@cruzerDave - Did you ever write up the passenger window fix. One of the clips on my PS window seems to have broken and I am interested in whether the Dorman replacements were "plug and play" or needed tweaking?
 
mcewan13 said:
@cruzerDave - Did you ever write up the passenger window fix. One of the clips on my PS window seems to have broken and I am interested in whether the Dorman replacements were "plug and play" or needed tweaking?
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no, because after acting like one clip had broken and having to pull it back up at an angle the window has behaved for 6 months, go figure... I'm sure it's just waiting for it to be snowing and 4F to fail completely, but I haven't had time to work on something that works. And now that I think about it, I don't even remember what the hell I did so will have to take apart the driver door too in order to see what worked - grrr. I do remember it was only slightly janky and about an afternoon's work? <sigh, sorry>
 
cruzerDave said:
no, because after acting like one clip had broken and having to pull it back up at an angle the window has behaved for 6 months, go figure... I'm sure it's just waiting for it to be snowing and 4F to fail completely, but I haven't had time to work on something that works. And now that I think about it, I don't even remember what the hell I did so will have to take apart the driver door too in order to see what worked - grrr. I do remember it was only slightly janky and about an afternoon's work? <sigh, sorry>
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I did some digging around in the bottom of the door and found some broken pieces of plastic. It looks like the rear plastic clip that holds the glass to the regulator broke. I talked to two glass repair shops and am being told that the clips are not replaceable and that i need to buy a new side glass unit for $250+. <ugh> I'd much rather put that money towards something fun like a new KISS drawer system.
 
mcewan13 said:
I did some digging around in the bottom of the door and found some broken pieces of plastic. It looks like the rear plastic clip that holds the glass to the regulator broke. I talked to two glass repair shops and am being told that the clips are not replaceable and that i need to buy a new side glass unit for $250+. <ugh> I'd much rather put that money towards something fun like a new KISS drawer system.
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LOL, Nice try and motivating me to tackle the passenger window!

FWIW I replaced both of my plastic clips when I did the work, so neither is 'not replaceable' if you have epoxy, the black adhesive, the dorman clips, and some time.
Have you checked the local junk yards? Might be cheaper to buy a replacement window through them?
 
cruzerDave said:
LOL, Nice try and motivating me to tackle the passenger window!

FWIW I replaced both of my plastic clips when I did the work, so neither is 'not replaceable' if you have epoxy, the black adhesive, the dorman clips, and some time.
Have you checked the local junk yards? Might be cheaper to buy a replacement window through them?
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Thanks for the reminder on the local yards. That used to be my first instinct in the 90's. It's funny how the internet has changed us.
 
Has anyone found a good common Toyota part for this fix? One of my RF window tabs broke. I went and picked up a junker glass from a yard for $80. I didn't want to have to pull the glass out, and kind of glue it back together and have it fail.

I'd like to fix my old glass because it has bronze tint on it (and I don't want to go through hassle of finding that tint shade again). I found these on amazon and eBay ... it seems like even if the bottom of the tab to bolt hole height is a bit different, the window motor could be re-timed to adjust for the difference.

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I find that Urethane adhesive hardens and becomes unusable over time.
I purchased a lot of 10 syringes a couple years ago and all are no longer any good.
Had window issue with my Isuzu Trooper and used Urethane when it was fresh. Clip held to the window for about a year then came loose.
Next time noting that the Urethane was no good, I tried JB Weld and a couple weeks window came loose again.
Next I took #50 grit sand paper and sanded the window on both sides where the plastic clip attaches and reused JB Weld. Reused the old plastic clip. So far almost a year later window is still firmly attached.

I think we need to roughen the window where the plastic clip attaches.
 
There's no thread on the plastic tab, it's just an open semi-slotted hole in the plastic.

The bolt is a 10mm, maybe 1/4" length that bolts to the armature. If a bolt falls down in the door, easily retrieved... a lot of room in the bottom

Live to Ski said:
TXLX100: any chance you could measure the thread on the OEM tab?

I suspect a loose on on my DS. It's goint into the stereo store this week and I want to have a bolt ready in case it dropped into the door.
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I just did the drivers door last week. Plastic clip was intact, just lost the bond. I scuffed the glass with 180 grit sandpaper, cleaned the glass n plastic clip with acetone, and used J B Weld. Let it sit overnite. Longer cure time epoxies are stronger than quick cure formulae.
 
@cruzerDave wow I can’t believe this old thread still has legs. To answer your question (from 2016!) when I machined that aluminum window clip I was working in a machine shop in college and had access to just about any tool imaginable. It would certainly be possible for a CNC shop to make a run of these but someone would have to make a significant initial investment.
 
I’m going to be that guy who brings back an old thread. To be fair this thread had the most info and it helped me but I felt it was left a little open ended.

Per this thread I bought the Dorman 38480, I lucked out and they were in stock at my local AutoZone. I also got the 3900psi JB Weld ClearWeld from Home Depot. I’m sure there are better or more suitable adhesives but this has been working for me for a day so far. I also scuffed the glass with 120grit and cleaned it well.

Also this guy on YT has a good video on how to remove the door panel and the glass. It was very helpful for me. Although someone had definitely been in there before as the plastic sheet was gone and replaced with dynamat.

That’s where things diverge. The Dorman clips are NOT plug and play. At least not for the front right window rear clip. The front and rear clips of the front windows are different as the glass has a step in it, so the rear clip has a higher “perch” for the glass. I ended up using the broken clip to trace out where to trim. Photos below. I ended up using the Dorman clip that has the slot. The other clip actually has a threaded hole and would have required more modification.

With the modification I made on the clip (I just used a hacksaw and metal file to shape it) the glass didn’t bear on the bottom of the clip. So I cut up one of the others to make a spacer.

Then I glued it all together with a clamp and let it sit for 10 minutes. Then I reinstalled the window in the door thinking that the epoxy was still a little soft and any misalignment could still be corrected.

Ultimately this was a 2 hour job in my driveway. A lot of that time was running back and forth to the shed to find a different tool.

Tools used:
Trim tools
Phillips screwdriver
10mm socket and extension
Glass scraper/razor blade
Sharpie
Hacksaw
Metal file
Sandpaper
Paper towel and isopropyl
Beer


Photos:

I used the clip in the middle.
02AE1552-316D-44DA-B9F4-C9DAFFC4A2D2.webp


Aligning mounting hole and traced what needs to be removed.
D03C018F-1B6F-453A-94ED-24810CE07750.webp


Modified clip in position.
5E89C229-8EF8-44DC-BF7B-CD7F7D30AD3F.webp


The spacer I added to match glass mounting height.
F9224218-03D4-4C08-935A-32C6AE8AE099.webp
 
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