Window "glue"

[CruisinGA]

Drivers side door window: front little plastic tab has broken. Can't stomach $200+ for a new assembly when all is broken is a $0.05 piece of plastic.

I have access to a rapid prototype machine on which I will print a new one, however, I cannot figure out what kind of "glue" they used to attach these from the factory. It appears to be sort of a non-hardening rubbery type stuff.

Can anyone clue me in as to what this is? Picture shows remaining plastic tab.

 

[agaisin]

I have no expertise in this, just was curious to find the answer and found a few useful links:

- http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/adhesives_sealants.htm
Check out permatex's site on adhesives. Looks like they have a plastic welder that advertises it glues to glass. They have technical data sheets on each product so if you can't find a single chart for all combinations (glass to plastic), you can at least check each type of adhesive and super glue individually... or maybe contact someone at permatex. (I wonder if the silicone adhesive would work - might not be strong enough).

- 3M CHIM Partner Support Site : Automotive Adhesives, Sealers & Chemicals
looks like 3m has some products like 3M™ Automix™ Fast Cure Epoxy Adhesive, 08107 that appear to bond plastic to glass

- How do you glue glass to plastic? - Yahoo! UK & Ireland Answers

- What glue will bond plastic to glass? | ChaCha Answers
answer was uv glass glue

- saw on another link (can't find which one) that possibly urethane glue

- 60 Second Epoxy Resin : Epoxies : Maplin
this product 60 second epoxy resin by bondloc says it can glue glass to plastic

- QuestionHub.com - what kind of glue can bond plastic to glass?
This one had a lot of good ideas - super glue, gorilla glue, epoxy, 2 part epoxy, silicone glue, and the last suggestion is the same glue you'd use to glue rearview mirror to window glass.

Good luck! Let us know what works. You may also want to shoot an email or call 3M, Permatex, or a local autobody or glass shop.

 

[CruisinGA]

Thanks for doing that legwork!

I forgot that a buddy of mine's dad has a body shop. Called him and he said it's black urethane. "Comes in a tube and makes an awful mess" is what he said.

I'm pretty sure it's this stuff :

 

[NMuzj100]

I have access to a rapid prototype machine on which I will print a new one,

There is a market here for these things ....

 

[arbetrader]

Yes, that black urethane is the stuff the shops use to install windshields into vehicles. At least that's what they used at the shop when they installed my windshield. It can be very messy if you're not careful.

 

[CruisinGA]

Well, access wasn't granted to the rapid prototype machine today, so I just made a new one out of aluminum. I'll post up the results once I get this new clip installed. Hopefully they are good.

I also found these at Advance Auto. Might be worth a shot for someone who doesn't have access to tools to make their own.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_x_9110180-P_x_x#
"Dorman - Help Door Glass attaching clips" part no 38480

 

[CruisinGA]

Window went together well. Had to remove regulator to straighten out bent arm.

So far so good. First time this window has been operational in years.

 

[NMuzj100]

That's a pretty fancy piece of aluminum work! Looks really good.


From another site - http://www.ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com - GM Sash Guides

The issue is how to remove the old clips and what adhesive to use with the new ones. Keep in mind that the side window glass is tempered but NOT laminated (like the windshield). So if you scratch the glass in any way while removing the old clips, the glass will immediately shatter into a zillion pieces. I've used a sharpened chisel and small hammer to chip away the old plastic clip. Plus, I've left a bit of the old adhesive in place for the epoxy to bond to.

3M Automix Channel Bonding and Sidelite Adhesive, 2 oz Black, flexible and durable adhesive is the one to use. It's made for for bonding moveable and stationary glass into place. Has a 4 to 5 minute worklife and drive-away time of one hour. Dispense with 3M 2 ounce Automix Applicatior Gun, part number 8191, and 3M Automix Mixing Nozzels, part number 08197.​

 

[viclava]

Clip

Does anyone know what the OEM part # is? I can't find anything around here at all. I was quoted $400+ for the whole window and assembly, just because the .05 part broke off.

Thanks

 

[NMuzj100]

I don't think Toyota is selling them individually. If we could determine what common models (Camry, Corolla, ect...) have the same part we could at least source them from wrecking yards.

 

[willflow]

I have this same issue in my T100. I got clips from NAPA that are for an s10 or canyon. Part number is 665-2154 in the NAPA solutions line. It is called a window sash assortment. I has going to try the same 3M window weld until I talked to a friend who does glass for a living. He said he has better luck when the glass has been etched somehow. He said he would use some of his glue stuff for me if I want or that I should try an epoxy for glass. We'll see how it goes.

 

[hankinid]

I don't think Toyota is selling them individually. If we could determine what common models (Camry, Corolla, ect...) have the same part we could at least source them from wrecking yards.

They're not available from a dealer as separate pieces. But I have seen a thread here claiming Camry or Corolla clips (can't remember which) will work. But that obviously means a mess of broken glass to remove them as well as the cost of pulling and paying for the window at the junkie...PITA>

Steve

 

[cruzerDave]

So the one problem with my new 100 was the driver window was broken - turns out its this stupid clip and yes $300 for a whole new window does NOT sit well with me, so I am trying to find alternatives.

While the replacement clips and glues mentioned above seem like they will work, the work involved to get the old stuff off and those on (and do they even match the right heights/positions we need???) has me less than enthusiastic.

I am wondering if there is a way to MacGyver this sucker back together... anyone try or have opinions on J-B Weld PlasticWeld Epoxy Putty

"PlasticWeld is a hand-mixable, fast-setting epoxy putty that forms a durable bond to most major plastic types. After mixing, it forms a polymer compound that can be molded or used to build up and repair just about anything made from plastic. When cured, it can be sawed, drilled, carved, sanded and painted. PlasticWeld has a 20-25 minute work life; functional cure occurs in 2-3 hours. PlasticWeld cures to an off-white color, is rated at a tensile strength of 350 PSI. Does not adhere to polyethylene, polypropylene or some other plastics. Test for adhesion first."

Amazon.com: J-B Weld 8237 PlasticWeld Plastic Repair Epoxy Putty - 2 oz: Automotive

Anyone know what kind of plastic those clips are? ABS?

I'm thinking to give it a try, and worst case I just go the replacement clip route, or window from a junker...

 

[DirtDawg]

I have used plastic weld putty and other products in the past. Some work great, some don't even hold together for a day. With that being said I recommend just getting a new clip and doing it the right way the first time.

I have specifically used the JB plastic weld putty a ton before and would not recommend it for this job. While they claim its' strength is 350 psi, that must be under prime conditions, because its never held 350 lbs for me. Simply put, I feel like that plastic clip would be seeing too much stress and movement for the putty to hold for long. If you are going to glue it I would suggest using a plastic epoxy over the putty. And for you to glue it properly the assembly would need to be removed. So why not just replace the piece?

 

[cruzerDave]

@DirtDawg I've had hit and miss results with epoxies too - am waiting to hear back form my MechE brother who is really knowledgeable about these things before deciding if this is viable.

If you or anyone else (@willflow @viclava) can confirm they went with the Napa part 665-2154 (which is Dorman #38480 from here: Dorman Products - 38480) for *both* of the clips (the forward one looks different than above pics and both of mine are broken) then yes I agree better to do once. But I am skeptical of the right dimensions/function with these other clips, and I am leery of going through the hassle to get the clips and several applicator bits mentioned above, take it all apart, somehow remove all the goop without shattering my window, apply new, put it all back together, and then find it doesn't track up and down right.

Anyone able to bless the Dorman clips???

 

[DirtDawg]

I only mentioned epoxies because I put more trust in them than I would the plastic weld putty.

Hopefully some of the other guys will chime in, but if they don't your best bet might just be to remove the old one and compare it to the others dimension wise. Distance from the bottom of the glass to the mounting hole is really the only thing you need to make sure stays the same.

As for taking care of the glass when you swap them out: just make sure the glass is well supported and you don't put any un-needed stress on the glass, and you shouldn't have any issues as long as you don't scratch it. When I've done this type of job before (not on a LC), I carefully used a set of razor blades and an exacto knife to remove it. Didn't experience any problems.

 

[cruzerDave]

@CruisinGA any chance you would consider printing a few in aluminum and selling them???

 

[DirtDawg]

I assume the aluminum ones were cnc'd. If someone can get me dimensions, I have access to a 3d printer and could at least make a model to possibly send to @bhicks to put on his site for production. Just an idea.

 

[bhicks]

Those look like something that can be designed and printed but I'm guessing you can get them from Mr.T for pretty cheap. Maybe @beno or @cDan can speak up and clue us all in on if these are over the counter yota parts.

 

[cruzerDave]

@DirtDawg - my brother echoed your sentiment that the putty is not going to be a great choice long-term.... vibration/shock/temperature. He recommended this epoxy *if* I go this route:

http://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-50112-ClearWeld-Quick-Setting/dp/B009EU5ZM0/?tag=ihco-20

It is 4400 psi instead of 350 psi tensile strength and good for plastics as well. He also recommended adding a washer front and/or back to reinforce and carry the load, instead of the plastic which is obviously not up to the task.

Unless someone says they can machine/print a metal part, I am going to buy the Gorman clips at NAPA, couple washers, epoxy and the window glue, and this weekend take it all apart and see which route makes sense. Beautiful day here today and couldn't roll my window down to enjoy it - no bueno.