Why Diverter Valves Fail

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Why Washer Diverter Valves Fail

OK, since ALL of us will have to replace this little guy sooner or later, I thought I would find out why it fails. Below are pics of the DV's guts. On the left is the diaphragm and on the right is the solenoid. In my case, the solenoid still worked but as you can see the rubber disk on the diaphragm was shot. Instead of blocking the passage of fluid, the fluid ran around the diaphragm through both the front and rear outlets. I suppose time and heat are the two biggest enemies to these rubber disks. -Now you know

BTW, the part number for this valve is: 85321-60050 and retails for around $30
Diaphram.webp
Solenoid.webp
 
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can you elaborate a little? What diverter valve is this? for the heat? where is it located?

thanks.
 
It diverts windshield washer fluid from the windshield to the rear window nozzle. It's somewhere under the left hood hinge, bundled up with the wiring or vac lines or something. I need to pinch off the hose to the rear nozzle, I removed the rear wiper long ago.
 
OH...... that diverter! gotcha. Mine still squirts out the rear windshield when i spray the front windshield.
 
I did the same, if you peeel up that rubber you will find much of the bubbling is from rust of the plated steel disk under it.

I ushually run a home brew of water and mild soap as washer fluid, in the winter I use comercial stuff, my replaced diverter died shorly after switching to the comercial stuff, made me wonder if the methanol (stuff that keeps it from freezing) is the cause of the corosion?

perhapse the methanol is bad for the rubber also?
 
I just ordered one today, Go figure it was the first one to be ordered at this location(WC sponsor) The reason I finally replaced it was it was leaking where they slpit apart, I tore into mine about a year and a half ago, I cleaned it up and it worked the way it should for a few months, This time I figured I would just replace it.
Its fun to tear into parts to see if you can get them working again.
Have fun
 
I have stupidly replaced my diverter valve every year for the last 4 years. The new ones only last 11+ months; just long enough to be over the 12 months Toyota parts warranty. It annoys me to have the fronts dribble when I just want to squirt off the rear window. I guess I'm too "Monk-ish" because little things like this that go wrong really annoy me.

I see from searching the forums that this pesky device has been an annoyance for quite awhile. Other than installing a tee and just chucking the valve, is there anything else I could do? What other solutions are there? Seems to me that Toyota should have come up with a better part by now?
 
There's not much you can do. I've repaired mine some time ago and this is your only option other than getting a separate water pump and putting it into your tank.

The problem is that the disc is made of ferrous metal. It needs to contain iron in order to be attracted by the electro-magnet/solenoid. The disc is covered with zinc or chrome but that doesn't last much long. Alloys with iron tend to get rusty and you can't help it. I just cleaned my disc and glued a new piece of rubber on both sides but I'm sure it won't last.
 
wierd mine has never been replaced.....................

works fine.

course it'll probably break now. thanks alot fella's.
 
Does anyone know if the Hundy's use a similar set up and possibly have a better deverter valve which might be retrofitted to an 80?
 
Does anyone know if the Hundy's use a similar set up and possibly have a better deverter valve which might be retrofitted to an 80?
Below you'll find an old thread that you just might find very helpful.
 
@Rifleman thank you. That is a great thread.

I pulled my 3 year old OEM diverter valve and noticed a White crusty deposit around the belt line. I used jumpers and tried to make it function. Wen it wouldn't I took it apart.

This one had strong streams of washer fluid out the front when either the front or rear washer was activated.

The upper seal had failed and allowed washer fluid to enter the windings. The internal diode is burned and most likely shorted out.

Here are some photos.

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