Whole-house surge protectors (1 Viewer)

[westom]

I agree with this one. We took an indirect hit from a lightening bolt, zapped a big tree, blew a big whole in the ground and then hit my house. Blew six breakers and fried all sensitive electronics despite surge protectors. Hdmi ports are very sensitive to surges.

You had no properly earthed 'whole house' protector. So the surge - a direct strike - did damage that never happens in any facility with proper earthing and 'whole house' protectors.

You had what kind of protectors? Plug-in protectors can sometimes make damage to electronics easier. Plug-in protectors do not even claim protection in their numeric specs sheets. Why do you assume "it is called a surge protector; therefore it must be surge protection"? Either a 'whole house' protector is properly earthed. Or you have no surge protection - as that example demonstrates.

The expression is "A protector is only as effective as its earth ground". Where did all that energy dissipate? Your protectors with no earth ground connection can make electronics damage easier.

Routine protection from direct lightning strikes means nobody even knew a surge existed. Those who want to be scammed pay tens or 100 times more money for plug-in protectors that do not even claim to provide that protection.

 

[NocalFJ60]

So how do you make sure you got an effective earth ground for your home?

So you are saying if your have a proper earth ground a surge will immediately want to go to earth ground instead of through your sensitive electronics?

 

[pillguy]

so what whole house protector (under $200) should I buy for my home?

Most of us are only educated by retail propaganda. Most believe only what they are ordered to believe, do not always demand numbers, and never ask for the always required "reasons why". It is why my father so enjoyed advertising. Lying and manipulating such people was fun.

Either one logically knows why it works. Or the brainwashed "feel" is must work. Two completely different ways of thinking.

Nobody can make money selling earth ground. Retail propaganda does not sell earthing. Then a majority of us will not learn what was well understood even 100 years ago. Most of us assume it does protection because "surge protector" and "surge protection" sound alike. So easy for retail propaganda to promote myths and lies.

The damning question that a majority never ask, "Where does energy dissipate?"

 

[westom]

so what whole house protector (under $200) should I buy for my home?

Solutions were posted multiple times:

This technology was being used over 100 years ago so that telephone operators need not remove headsets during thunderstorms. More responsible companies (General Electric, Siemens, Cutler-Hammer, Square D, Leviton, Intermatic) provide it. Protection is always - always - about where energy dissipates. Either absorbed harmlessly outside the building. Or energy hunts for earth destructively via appliances.

Numbers tell which one learns and which one only recites hearsay. Typically lightning strikes are 20,000 amps. Therefore the most minimal 'whole house' protectors (sold by Cutlet-Hammer, General Electric, Square D, Leviton, Intermatic, Keison, Siemens, etc) are 50,000 amps. Conduct direct lightning strikes to earth. Remain functional.

Second, 'whole house' protectors that are designed to earth even direct lightning strikes (ie about 50,000 or more amps). Sold under names such as Siemens, General Electric, Intermatic, Polyphaser, Leviton, Square D, Ditek, and Cutler-Hammer (Eaton). The last one sells in Lowes and Home Depot for less than $50.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

So how do you make sure you got an effective earth ground for your home?

So you are saying if your have a proper earth ground a surge will immediately want to go to earth ground instead of through your sensitive electronics?

I believe that is what he is saying. No surge protection devices will be effective w/o proper grounding of the electrical system. Energy(lectrisity and current) WILL follow the path of least resistance to ground. Your electrical service SHOULD be bonded to earth ground via a large gauge solid copper wire terminating from the neutral buss/lug to either a ufer ground (typically a 20' length of rebar run in/under the foundation) or a driven ground rod. The bonding is NEC code, however, each state has its own codes regarding bonding, and many of these codes have not been diligently enforced over the years. Westom will have more details, I'm sure, about the bonding/grounding, and I am inclined to listen to him.

 

[westom]

Your electrical service SHOULD be bonded to earth ground via a large gauge solid copper wire terminating from the neutral buss/lug to either a ufer ground (typically a 20' length of rebar run in/under the foundation) or a driven ground rod. The bonding is NEC code, ...

Posted previously:

Every wire inside every cable connects to single point earth ground before entering the building. Or you have no protection. ...

Either the surge is harmlessly absorbed outside the building by a single point earth ground. Or it will hunt for earth via appliances ...
How many feet is that ground wire from breaker box to earth? Must have no sharp bends, no splices, separated from other non-ground wires, not inside metallic conduit, etc. Why? Because that 'whole house' protector will only be as effective as its earth ground. Notice so little discussion about the box - and still not enough said about what provides protection - earth ground. ...
The principle demonstrated in this application note:
http://www.erico.com/public/library/fep/technotes/tncr002.pdf
Two structures. Any wire that enters either structure must first connect to that structure's single point ground. Even underground wires must be earthed before entering.
If someone screwed up how wires enter the building, then a power utility demonstrates a kludge fix so that surge protection is possible:
http://tinyurl.com/yefm8n9 or
Tech Tip 08 - Indiana Business-Duke Energy

Your building must have an earth ground that both meets and exceeds post 1990 National Electrical code. Not just meet. For example a breaker box is connected to an earth ground rod via a quarter inch bare copper wire. That wire goes up over the foundation and down to an earthing electrode. That meets code for a low 'resistance' connection. And violates earthing for a low 'impedance' connection.

Wire is too long. Has sharp bends. Is bundled with other non-ground wires above the beaker box. That ground wire must go through the foundation. No sharp bends over the foundation. Separated from other wires. And shorter. All necessary for earthing that 'exceeds' post 1990 code.

Other problems that can subvert protection. Splices. Ground wire inside metallic conduit. All grounds do not meet at the common, single point earth ground. Each utility wire inside every cable must connect 'less than 10 feet' to the same earth ground before entering the building.

AC electric is three wires. Only one connects to earth. Effective protection means all three connect to earth. Two hot wires earthed via a protector - else no protection exists anywhere in the building.

Above defines the connection. And then an earthing electrode should be expanded / enhanced. How to double protection via any protector? Enhance earth ground. A protector is only as effective as that single point ground - that only homeowners are responsible for installing and maintaining. A ground that must also exceed code requirements.

Every protection layer is defined only by ground – not by any protector. Above discusses a ‘secondary’ protection system. Homeowners also should inspect their ‘primary’ protection system:
http://www.tvtower.com/fpl.html

Meet and exceed post 1990 NEC. Upgrade only earth ground – no changes to safety grounds. A solution that works just as successfully in a 2010 home as in a 1930 home. Protection is always about where energy dissipates. Effective protection means direct lightning strike without damage even to a protector. A protector is only as effective as it earth ground.

 

[cruiser88]

KLF the guy is pretty spot on. You will not succesfully protect your whole hose directly at the box however it needed as far as i am concerened. Your best chance is plugging a quaility surge protector right at the load and then its not 100% but at least if you loose a high $ item the insurance company didnt say you tried. A good surge protector in my experoence only works once unless its got build in heaters like solder which I havent had good luck with.
"Ordinary fuses and circuit breakers are not capable of dealing with lightning-induced transients. Lightning protection equipment may shunt current, block energy from traveling down the wire, filter certain frequencies, clamp voltage levels, or perform a combination of these tasks. Voltage clamping devices capable of handling extremely high amperages of the surge, as well as reducing the extremely fast rising edge (dv/dt and di/dt) of the transient are recommended. Adopting a fortress defense against surges is prudent: protect the main panel (AC power) entry; protect all relevant secondary distribution panels; protect all valuable plug-in devices such as process control instrumentation, computers, printers, fire alarms, data recording & SCADA equipment, etc. Further, protect incoming and outgoing data and signal lines. Protect electric devices which serve the primary asset such as well heads, remote security alarms, CCTV cameras, high mast lighting, etc. HVAC vents which penetrate one structure from another should not be ignored as possible troublesome electrical pathways.In all instances, use high quality, high speed, self-diagnosing protective components. Transient limiting devices may use a combination of arc gap diverters-metal oxide varistor-silicon avalanche diode technologies. Hybrid devices, using a combination of these technologies, are preferred. Know your clamping voltage requirements. Confirm that your vendor's products have been tested to rigid ANSI/IEEE/ISO9000 test standards. Avoid low-priced, bargain products which proliferate the market"

 

[cruiser88]

Dont forget the common lead.......... differential current
and 240 vac .

The stove I lost 3 months ago lightning didnt effect the 2 110's it effected the return..........fried that fawker all the way through