Did you make any extra backing plates? I need some. Thanks for those pictures and description. Your valve cover looks damn cool.
Who has removed their EGR valve?
- Thread starter gotmud
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I register my truck in a state across the country from where I live, so I haven't had to run a smog check for 3 years. I'm more than willing to do this mod, but I am a bit concerned about the truck running lean like mentioned in a previous post. I'd probably just disable it an put in the resistor just in case I ever have to run a smog in the future. Any word on whether this makes the truck run lean?
- Thread starter
- #23
Nothing so far. The exhaust "smells" about the same as before. I pulled one plug last weekend, and it looked normal.
- Thread starter
- #24
Sorry, no. I used the gasket as a template and a plasma torch to cut it out of 1/4" steel.
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I disabled the EGR and air pump on my '91 at the same time, so I can't comment on the individual effects. However, overall it made a dramatic difference. I'm under no illusion of more power, but it is MUCH smoother and more responsive. Overall it was like a different motor. I have disconnected the EGR at the exhaust manifold and removed the vac lines, but need to fab a block-off plate to totally remove it.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but won't the ECU adjust the AFR after removing the EGR? The pre-cat oxygen sensor provides feedback on the AFR so that the ECU can adjust accordingly.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but won't the ECU adjust the AFR after removing the EGR? The pre-cat oxygen sensor provides feedback on the AFR so that the ECU can adjust accordingly.
I just recently threw the infamous EGR code and looking at the pipe from exhaust to intake it looks like a Beezy to take off. I would rather do the old resistor trick for now. I have a 96. Same resistor like you have there? Sorry for the thread hijack but its killin' me.
I have driven over 6000 miles with the resistor mod on mine with absolutely no issues, except slightly better gas mileage and a smoother running engine.
I never performed this mod because I had a pesky egr code, my system was working just fine, I did this to get rid of the driveability problems associated with this system in general and to pick up a little increase in fuel mileage. I have performed this on other vehicles with success before and the 1FZ-FE seems to like it also.
My egr valve and other components are still intact and on the engine for the 2 year testing in my area, just simply disabled by pulling off the vacuum lines and capping them at the throttle body.
I could never seem to get over 12.5 MPG in my truck, just consistently saw between 11 and 12.5 since I have owned it.
The last 3 times I have checked I have gotten betwwen 13 and 14 MPG. Once I even got a 14.8 which nearly floored me.
Like previously mentioned the engine doesn't nesessarily feel much more powerful, just smoother...without the slight lag when the egr kicks in off idle.
As far as a lean condition is concerned, that might be partially true although I have seen no ill effects of this. Of course mine is the OBD I and the OBD II might react very differently to this situation.
Isn't exhaust gas basically inert, having little or no oxygen in it?
If so there should not be much of a lean condition present.........?
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I never performed this mod because I had a pesky egr code, my system was working just fine, I did this to get rid of the driveability problems associated with this system in general and to pick up a little increase in fuel mileage. I have performed this on other vehicles with success before and the 1FZ-FE seems to like it also.
My egr valve and other components are still intact and on the engine for the 2 year testing in my area, just simply disabled by pulling off the vacuum lines and capping them at the throttle body.
I could never seem to get over 12.5 MPG in my truck, just consistently saw between 11 and 12.5 since I have owned it.
The last 3 times I have checked I have gotten betwwen 13 and 14 MPG. Once I even got a 14.8 which nearly floored me.
Like previously mentioned the engine doesn't nesessarily feel much more powerful, just smoother...without the slight lag when the egr kicks in off idle.
As far as a lean condition is concerned, that might be partially true although I have seen no ill effects of this. Of course mine is the OBD I and the OBD II might react very differently to this situation.
Isn't exhaust gas basically inert, having little or no oxygen in it?
If so there should not be much of a lean condition present.........?
.
does your cruiser pass aircare with the resistance mod? thinking i might do that n see how it goes. i dont expect it to pass aircare, but at least it'll clear that pesky orange light. did you have a insufficient or excessive flow code thrown and replace suspect parts like vsv, modulator etc?
Toyo Boyo
SILVER Star
SO HAVE I DISABLED MINE?????
I have just swapped the vac lines of the EGR Vacuum Modulator over so that each end blocks the pipe next to itself - and done the same at the throttle body - have I disabled the EGR?
I have taken the truck for a spin - its starts fine - idles fine - drives fine - and doesn't throw any codes.
I don't have to have a sniff test until November so if I fail then reconneting the pipes will take one minute.
One more thing - I can't find the plug to do the resistor mod - I think the UK trucks must have a different spec - and they are NOT OBDII. Not able to fit Scangauge or anything nice like that
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- Thread starter
- #30
I suppose you could do this mod the same way The Lovely Boyo did. I completely removed mine to avoid cooking the main wiring harness. My harness was pretty crispy when I pulled my engine last month, so this should avoid having to repair it again.
I am keeping an eye on my spark plugs, tail pipe, et al to see any signs of running rich. -So far nothing. As stated above, the only difference I see is a crisper throttle response and smoother operation. HOWEVER, I did this mod on what is essentially a new engine, so I have no empirical data to compare before and after to.
I am keeping an eye on my spark plugs, tail pipe, et al to see any signs of running rich. -So far nothing. As stated above, the only difference I see is a crisper throttle response and smoother operation. HOWEVER, I did this mod on what is essentially a new engine, so I have no empirical data to compare before and after to.
- Thread starter
- #31
You're correct. IIRC US spec trucks have an EGR temp sensor, others don't.
I know Onur (Beno) has done this mod and I think his is an OBDII truck. I wonder is there is a big difference between the way the OBDI handles this mod compared to the OBDII.
The Lovely Boyo,
Did you have a check engine light on before you did this mod? What was the result of your mod? Smoother idle? Better gas mileage? Cooler temps?
Did you have a check engine light on before you did this mod? What was the result of your mod? Smoother idle? Better gas mileage? Cooler temps?
No check engine light if you put a resistor in place of the sensor. I got smoother idle, maybe a little better mpg, and my engine actually is running 5-10 degrees lower via scan gauge.
Toyo Boyo
SILVER Star
Only done the mod this afternoon.
I've just got back from a 40 mile mixed country lane and motorway drive. The EGR is fairly cool to the touch, and the EGR pipe itself I could hold a finger on it without burning myself.
So I guess this little hose change has disabled the EGR.
I notice that the truck feels a little smoother - maybe just a placebo effect - early days. I'll keep an eye on the petrol consumption and report back in a few weeks.
No engine check lights at all - but as stated - UK spec trucks are slightly different. We had locking diffs instead of OBDII lol
little_joe
SILVER Star
I did the resistor and capped the vacuum lines on the TB and from the VSV this weekend. TheLovelyBoyo, I'm glad you posted your query b/c I came here to post the same thing.
Mine is a 95 with a Toyota factory sticker on the underside of the hood that clearly states "OBDII Certified". I did not have CEL prior to this, nor do I have it now.
Throttle response is definitely smoother, and my off-idle detonation/pinging is gone. However, I still have ping/detonation from ~1300 to 1400rpm. This is actually a huge improvement b/c previously on these +85* days w/ A/C on I'd be pinging a lot, starting off idle up past 1800rpm.
Clearly I have another issue, but I wanted to make sure I capped the correct vacuum ports first.
Mine is a 95 with a Toyota factory sticker on the underside of the hood that clearly states "OBDII Certified". I did not have CEL prior to this, nor do I have it now.
Throttle response is definitely smoother, and my off-idle detonation/pinging is gone. However, I still have ping/detonation from ~1300 to 1400rpm. This is actually a huge improvement b/c previously on these +85* days w/ A/C on I'd be pinging a lot, starting off idle up past 1800rpm.
Clearly I have another issue, but I wanted to make sure I capped the correct vacuum ports first.
I just bypassed my egr system like The Lovely Boyo on my 95. I am going to go by Radioshack and get the resistor tonight. I have had a cel since I got the this cruiser well over a year ago. Was and is the 401 code I believe. Would be great if I can get rid of it with this mod. If anybody makes any extra block off plates let me know. I dont have the access to anything to make one.
I never had an egr code on mine, it was working just fine. I just simply wanted to disable this system for reasons previously mentioned.
Its a simple 2 minute job to hook my system back up for aircare.
Without the egr system functioning properly I doubt you will pass aircare as your Nox will be sky high.
There are ways of getting through aircare if your VSV or your modulator are toast but your EGR valve itself is functioning.
Simply bypass your modulator and VSV for the test.....just run 2 vacuum lines from the top of the throttle body (where modulator lines were plugged in) directly to the 2 sides of the egr valve T....this provides continous vacuum off idle to the egr valve.
This absolutely assures that that egr valve is opening off idle......although there will be no modulation of it so the engine will run slightly rougher....and the vsv will not shut the system down at WOT so there will be slighly less power in this situation......
but trust me your NOX numbers will never be lower and it will certainly still run well enough for the test.
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- Thread starter
- #39
I don't plan to dig into my engine for a very long time. However, when I do, I'll be interested to see how much cleaner the intake runners are. Also curious to see how my wiring harness holds up without the direct heat of the EGR pipe.
Well I guess I tempted fate by looking into this modification because I popped a CEL this morning. A quick scan with the scangauge revealed a P0401. I wondered why I had been so lucky not to have one of these codes, but obviously my cruiser has carbon build up just like everyone's cruiser.
The internet connection at the school wont allow the pictures in this thread to show up, but I think the following resistors are the ones I should pick up:
1k-ohm 1W 5% Metal-Oxide Film Resistor (2-Pack) - RadioShack.com
1k-ohm 1W 5% Metal-Oxide Film Resistor (2-Pack)
$1.49
Model: 271-153
Catalog #: 271-153
From however the resistor set up in Bear80's thread looks different than any resistor I have used (like the ones used in the coolant-temp-mod). I know he soldered connectors to the end, but the actual resistor looks like a square block instead of a little cylinder with the stripes marking the resistance rating.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=19012&stc=1&d=1114557520
Is this just some sort of protective box he placed over the resistor to protect it?
I wondered why I had been so lucky not to have one of these codes, but obviously my cruiser has carbon build up just like everyone's cruiser. The internet connection at the school wont allow the pictures in this thread to show up, but I think the following resistors are the ones I should pick up:
1k-ohm 1W 5% Metal-Oxide Film Resistor (2-Pack) - RadioShack.com
1k-ohm 1W 5% Metal-Oxide Film Resistor (2-Pack)
$1.49
Model: 271-153
Catalog #: 271-153
From however the resistor set up in Bear80's thread looks different than any resistor I have used (like the ones used in the coolant-temp-mod). I know he soldered connectors to the end, but the actual resistor looks like a square block instead of a little cylinder with the stripes marking the resistance rating.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=19012&stc=1&d=1114557520
Is this just some sort of protective box he placed over the resistor to protect it?
