While rebooting front drive shaft, inboard point's inner race slid right off shaft

[Tummler]

Edit: should be inboard joint. phone posting strikes again.

The FSM and all of the writeups mention using a brass hammer or some other form of delicate hammering to remove the inner race, but I could slide it off easily after removing the inboard snap ring.

I'm wondering if I have identified the cause of the mild clunk when shifting out of park.

 

[Tummler]

The more I ponder this, the more concerned I am becoming. I plan on hitting up some moderately challenging trails in a month or two, and the last thing I want to deal with is switching out a thrown front axle due to a combination of loose CV joint and ATRAC cauing the joint to grenade.

Is the talk in the FSM and the FAQ about hammering off the inner race in the inboard joint just precautionary, in that sometimes it is stuck on their tight enough to require some hammering, but other times it comes right off, or is this indicative of a worn shaft that needs replacing? Upon a cursory visual inspections, the splines didn't look all that gnarly to me.

 

[DirtDawg]

Unless you can visually see or feel a gap where the shaft meets the race, I would not be too concerned. All my reboot jobs on every toyota I have owned, I have been able to pull the shaft out of the race (once snap ring is removed) without any sort of hammer or punch.

 

[AimCOtaco]

Same here, mine need no persuasion, just snap ring off and slipped out.

 

[Tummler]

Thanks for the responses, guys.

 

[Tummler]

*#@ %@*! #@!$*&% Toyota! They included two different types of boot clamps in my boot kit: two yellow crimp type clamps for one boot and two foldover type clamps for the other boot.

From doing my homework on this project, I knew there were different types of clamps that may be included in the kit, and when I saw the yellow clamps through the plastic bags, I stupidly assumed all of the clamps were the crimp type. Of course, I discover this 5 minutes after the part stores close.

I'm sure someone else has encountered this and mentioned it on ih8mud, but damn, why in the he'll would Toyota put together a kit that requires two different type of clamping tools?

 

[2001LC]

Pictorial Front Drive Shaft (AKA CV’s) reboot, Help!

 

[Tummler]

Pictorial Front Drive Shaft (AKA CV’s) reboot, Help!

I read that thread when I was researching whether the heat discoloration of the outboard tulip was ordinary. I now see the two different types of clamps in the pictures, but to be fare to myself, there are other posts where people mention receiving two complete sets of the different types of clamps. Regardless, I should have went through the contents of the kit before starting the project.

 

[ton504]

*#@ %@*! #@!$*&% Toyota! They included two different types of boot clamps in my boot kit: two yellow crimp type clamps for one boot and two foldover type clamped for the other boot.

From doing my homework on this project, I knew there were different types of clamps that may be included in the kit, and when I saw the yellow clamps through the plastic bags, I stupidly assumed all of the clamps were the crimp type. Of course, I discover this 5 minutes after the part stores close.

I'm sure someone else has encountered this and mentioned on ih8mud, but damn, why in the he'll would Toyota put together a kit that requires two different type of clamping tools?

I'm sure the engineers had a good reason to use two different boots along with different band clamps for the outter/inner cv joints. Whats the problem again?

 

[Tummler]

I'm sure the engineers had a good reason to use two different boots along with different band clamps for the outter/inner cv joints. Whats the problem again?

The need for two different sized boots is obvious. My "observations" were limited to Toyota putting together a kit that requires use of two different types of special purpose tools to affix the clamps.

I don't think this was an engineering decision. The original boots only used one type of clamp and the FAM only references one type of clamp. I think the more likely explanation concerns suppliers/bean counters.

And to be clear, the problem is that I discovered this after the parts stores closed, which I acknowledged was my fault.

On a completely unrelated note, what wheels are those in your profile pic?