While at it with engine rebuild question

[bmw635]

I am pulling my 95 engine to rebuild. Aside from typical rebuild, any update / mod from factory casting/ build that I should do while at it?

Plan to have shop rebuild head, replace valve guides, seals, may be resurface if needed.

I'll replace piston rings, bearings, all seals, chain and guides. Compression is at 190-200 psi on a 275k miles but loosing coolant and power as it can't get past 80mph. TIA.

 

[Timpanogos Slim]

the later versions of the 1fz-fe have different pistons, but i dunno if they are compatible or how you would acquire them as these were never sold in the usa

 

[bmw635]

My 95 is the 1fz-fe engine and I am not changing pistons so I am not sure what changes with the pistons. Can you elaborate? Thx.

 

[Pin_Head]

I would get new oversize pistons and bore it out too. No point in going to all the expense and trouble of a rebuild without going all the way. Also change out the oil pump drive bushing and check the clearance of the oil pump gear before disassembly as this is a critical wear item. Replace the front cover if the clearance is excessive. Get a new timing chain and slipper too.

 

[bmw635]

The head gasket looks very thin between the cylinder walls so I don't think it's worth the expense to go 1or 2 over only while risking more head gasket problems. I plan to fab my own Vortech SC for the 80 to make up for hp. I was debating about getting the 100 but nothing beats the 80 in reliability and capability hence the rebuild.

Oil pump bushing is the shims?

You mean front lower timing chain cover if excessive wear?

Is the chain slipper same as the plastic chain guide rail? Sorry I don't know much on Toyota terminology. Thx.

 

[Timpanogos Slim]

My 95 is the 1fz-fe engine and I am not changing pistons so I am not sure what changes with the pistons. Can you elaborate? Thx.

the rings are closer to the top to reduce dead space, something else. this is 1fz-fe engines in south america and maybe the middle east. there was a thread about them.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/172763-what-happened-1fze-03-a.html

 

[bmw635]

the rings are closer to the top to reduce dead space, something else. this is 1fz-fe engines in south america and maybe the middle east. there was a thread about them.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/172763-what-happened-1fze-03-a.html

Wow, interesting. I guess custom JE or Ross pistons would fix that while raising compression to 10:1 which would give 34 extra hp and Total Seal ring would give another 5-10 hp. Thanks for the food for thought so I gotta do more research into factory specs to build up from there.

I wondered how this JE set up will last against OEM as I want more power but retain the bullet proof of Toyota. I can't wait to see the guts when we pull the 275k miles engine Monday that still have 190-200 psi compression, which is why I'd prefer to keep original. Thx.

http://www.jepistons.com/Catalogs/Sport-Compact/ToyotaLexus/1fzfe.aspx

 

[VCCruzr]

Peter,
Good luck with the rebuild and make sure you post lots of pictures of the progress. Subscribed

Derrick

 

[bmw635]

Pics will probably be sparse since this will be a quick rebuild but I'll try. We drained and removed everything Sat, pulling engine and break down Monday. Head will go to machine shop Monday while we disassemble everything for inspection and reassembly. Finish block assembly and install head Tues. Drop block back in Wed.

If I can't get JE pistons by Monday/ Tues then I'll stick with stock Toyota rebuild. The other thing is I don't know if I should go with Toyota stock HG or Comatic HG and don't know how this motor will handle 10:1 or 11.5:1 compression.

My BMW V8 with SC has 11:1 compression with 7psi boost with cooling mist spray putting out 450 hp while the 3.7L I6 engine has 11:1 compression putting out 270 hp and both are doing OK because of the custom tune. I don't have Toyota computer to tune this 1FZ-FE engine so is there's any issue?

Anybody ran 11:1 compression on these Toyota engines with stock DME/ ECU and how did they hold up to detonation? I know we can adjust timing with disty which is easier than retuning fuel mapping. TIA.

 

[bmw635]

I guess 10:1 compression JE piston is out for now since it's a 2-3weeks lead time so stock rebuild for me at this time. This is a nice upgrade for 30+ hp when doing rebuild.

 

[Pin_Head]

Reusing a critical part like a piston that has 275K miles on it is a bad idea. It has to have significant wear on it. Rebuilding an engine is not something you want to do in a hurry.

 

[86tuning]

Reusing a critical part like a piston that has 275K miles on it is a bad idea. It has to have significant wear on it. Rebuilding an engine is not something you want to do in a hurry.

I'd rather re use bearings if they show no signs of scuffing

 

[bmw635]

I'll replace IF the skirt show significant wear as the OE piston is only 9:1 compression and still at 190-200 psi (I know FSM list 170psi) on all 6 cyclinders so I think it'll hold. Any other reason to replace the pistons aside from metal fatigue or issues with old Toyota pistons?

OTOH, I plan to replace bearings and rod or pin if out of tolerance but I doubt it since this engine is well maintained with synthetic oil. The only reason I am pulling to rebuild because of oil leaks everywhere, loss of coolant and boil over (no sign of HG leak) and replace the worn timing chain. TIA.

 

[bmw635]

Head went to machine shop. Here's some pics or it didn't happen.

 

[bmw635]

Anybody know mark 1, 2 or 3 pistons and how to ID? Dealer said they need to know which mark but they can't tell me what/ where to look for. TIA.

As for pricing, looks like OE pistons and rings runs about same as JE 10:1 compression pistons with Total Seal rings, only difference is 2 days for OE parts while 2-3 weeks for JE, but with the holiday I may not see JE until after new year so looks like OE stock rebuild this time.

 

[OGBeno]

From the part guy point of view, the marks correspond to specs in the part catalog.

As CDan noted at least 8 yrs ago on MUD, the 1FZ-FE is basically a blue print engine. You need to correspond the bearings on the block with the Mark # as available in the parts catalog.

It is a parallel corresponding experience.

But the interwebs will get you your answers as you need. Do a search on MUD. We've been doing this for over ten yrs.

 

[bmw635]

Forgot, I have a copy of the FSM- answered my own question with piston mark 1,2,3 on pg 880.

 

[bmw635]

Finally dropping engine into the car. Didn't take much picture during progress due to dirty hand but got lots of observation to share.

After 275k miles, there wasn't much wear on cams, rods, crank bearings, pistons rings as I didn't see much wear and can still see the angular cut on ring surface touching the cyclinder wall. Seems like each component had its own oiling hole combined with sysnthetic oil that protect the parts this long. The only thing I replaced are rings, water pump, idle pulley, seals and gaskets, and rebuit the head. Of course spark plugs, belts, hoses, and other while at it things.

You can still see the honing mark from factory with no ring groove on block. Pistons are still tight with no skirt wear.Rods are still tight on pin. Rebuild wasn't needed and parts are probaly usable if it wasn't for all the leaks, but I am glad I did for peace of mind while on trails or expedition.

 

[bmw635]

Btw, my compression were accurate at 190-200 psi before the rebuild because the pistons had 1/8" thick carbon deposit which increased the pressure. The valve stem seal must be leaking because I was losing oil but it didn't burn through the ring.

 

[Howard705]

Like this approach-especially for doing when replacing HG with the engine removed. You don't need to replace anything within spec. Factory piston rings? Did you hone? What grit? Rings seating? I take it re-used bearings. What did they do to the head?