While at it with engine rebuild question

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I've rebuilt and customized 2 Bmw engines so when I torn this engine down, I was surprised to see the condition . I've seen post of people rebuilding their engines claiming nothing worn and reusing everything until I saw this myself- Effing UNBELIEVABLE!

Given the cylinder wall condition with 275k miles wear on the cylinder wall and possibly some kind of coating that helps protect the wear, I just replaced OEM rings without honing or ring seating since the rings seem to wear may be 40% compare to new OEM ring. Some BMW engine have silicone coating on the cylinder wall so if you bore/ hone that, the engine is less durable.

The head was resurface, valve seat grind, new stem seal and reshim ( all shims were reused as it was within specs.)

All cam, crank, rod bearings were reused since no scoring, no slop so shy bother? Also, rod bearing and bushing are sold with rod only which was $600 more that I didn't want to spend.
 
Sorry, HG is in the trash.

I can say that the HG material seems to stick to the block and head so only about 60-70% of the HG material was left on the gasket itself. There was about 1/16" of residue on the block that we had to scrape off and clean.

I suspect it melted due to hotter engine operating temp and inferior material. Cars use to run 80C/ 160F only and the hotter temp tends to break down quicker. I suspect the HG failure is result of extreme heat rather than design issue.

This is the 1FE-FZ t-stat info:
Engine temp A/C cutout spec = 226F
Thermostat opening temp spec = 180F
Thermostat fully open temp spec = 203F --- Ideal closed loop engine temperature
 
So you reused the factory rings And pistons? Did you have the block cleaned, decked or anything?
 
Have those injectors rebuilt while you're there...
 
Head was rebuilt, block only got new rings, everything else was reused since we couldn't see the wear. We bought the rings and old rings seems to wear only 30% compare to new but since it's worn and we have the rings, we replaced it while at it.

Block was sonic test and checked, no decking needed so we reinstall everything else

Injectors were sonic cleaned since it's an easy change if there's any issue .
 
Bump

I have everything torn down to the block, the head's back from the shop resurfaced with a valve job and I'm ready for reassembly.

I think I'm going to go ahead and pull the oil pans and timing chain cover to replace the timing chain and guides to be safe.

I read through this post the rings were replaced without honing the cylinders? Is this normal that everything work out okay?

With as close as I am I'm tempted to just pull the block and go for it.

However, I thought my cylinder walls looked amazing and this is the reason I've been thinking about leaving it alone combined with my Blackstone oil reports for a few years showing no bearing wear..

Any thoughts?

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I’m having a similar dilemma. Just pulled the engine in my 2nd cruiser with 356k miles due to a small head gasket leak and after tearing it down I’m amazed with how good the bearings, crank, pistons and bores look. Compression was 180 in all cylinders and oil pressure was good. I’m tempted to just put everything back together with new timing chain and guides after the head gets back and run it. I’m curious if just putting new rings in without honing worked out for the OP.
 
I’m having a similar dilemma. Just pulled the engine in my 2nd cruiser with 356k miles due to a small head gasket leak and after tearing it down I’m amazed with how good the bearings, crank, pistons and bores look. Compression was 180 in all cylinders and oil pressure was good. I’m tempted to just put everything back together with new timing chain and guides after the head gets back and run it. I’m curious if just putting new rings in without honing worked out for the OP.
How did this story end? What did you end up doing? Can't believe how nice those cylinder walls look.
 
How did this story end? What did you end up doing? Can't believe how nice those cylinder walls look.
I'm running strong, no issues, I sourced a brand spanking new 1fz short block (hardest, longest lead time piece) for when the time comes, I'll be ordering a new head soon and plan to build a new motor.

So far so good, I have done a number of long multiple week heavy mile trips with the family as well as a number of day / weekend Wheeling trips. Plus, snowboard mountain trips 30ish times a season up the mountain, can't complain, it's great.

I have around 40k on the 1fz refresh.

My priorities currently are getting the Tcase out and refresh with 3.1.1 low range, 100% factory new steering and one of the last wits end cooler and line assembles made.

She runs fantastic!

Since the 1fz refresh I switched to Lucas 5w-40, all my Blackstone oil reports looks great.

Really enjoying the 80.

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I'm running strong, no issues, I sourced a brand spanking new 1fz short block (hardest, longest lead time piece) for when the time comes, I'll be ordering a new head soon and plan to build a new motor.

So far so good, I have done a number of long multiple week heavy mile trips with the family as well as a number of day / weekend Wheeling trips. Plus, snowboard mountain trips 30ish times a season up the mountain, can't complain, it's great.

I have around 40k on the 1fz refresh.

My priorities currently are getting the Tcase out and refresh with 3.1.1 low range, 100% factory new steering and one of the last wits end cooler and line assembles made.

She runs fantastic!

Since the 1fz refresh I switched to Lucas 5w-40, all my Blackstone oil reports looks great.

Really enjoying the 80.

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@BillyGoatMTB while you are storing your short block, any moisture issues of concern? Do you have it wrapped up pretty well with desiccants or anything like that?
 
@BillyGoatMTB while you are storing your short block, any moisture issues of concern? Do you have it wrapped up pretty well with desiccants or anything like that?
Good morning Mud :flipoff2:

Disclaimer, I'm an electrician not an engine factory short block storage professional :hillbilly: if I'm doing something wrong anybody please feel free to chime in. I've talked to a bunch of folks and a few of my friends have built engines for a living. One in particular has done it for about four decades.

Instead of desiccant bags that can wear out I put a gun safe dehumidifier electric goldenrod in contact against the block and sealed the bag tight.

My understanding is Condensate cannot form if the block doesn't have extreme temperature shifts pulling in moisture.

I've had it like that for about a year. Everything seems fine.

My engine pro buddy suggested I get an engine stand. Get the short block on the stand. Leave the heater on it but to coat everything in a light coat of motor oil as well as putting a teaspoon of motor oil in each cylinder for the rings and piston bore. I plan to do this soon.
 
Will you reuse any of the old head parts when you rebuild it? Or at that point is everything replaced even down to the camshafts? Thanks again.
The plan was originally to reuse the parts I put in for the refresh like the timing chain, guides and gears, as well as whatever bits and pieces I could reuse that made sense.

Now that it's been a couple years and about 40,000 miles, I haven't decided yet for sure. I think I'm going to go with a brand new head as well as a brand new set of cams to let everything wear in as a set.
 

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