It's not really that the Malottes aren't strong. I think they are also Marine grade glass, at least on the exterior. The molding just sucks. Mike Gozzard actually forms all the factory contours of the tub, so it closely resembles the form of the original steel tub. He also puts a lot more time into reinforcement. With the Malotte, you're looking at cutting all your own holes in the firewall/dash, bracing your door posts if you use hard doors, etc. The Gozzard's are fawkin' nice. When I destroy mine, I hope to purchase a Gozzard.
Which Tub is best? (FAQ)
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It's not really that the Malottes aren't strong. I think they are also Marine grade glass, at least on the exterior. The molding just sucks. Mike Gozzard actually forms all the factory contours of the tub, so it closely resembles the form of the original steel tub. He also puts a lot more time into reinforcement. With the Malotte, you're looking at cutting all your own holes in the firewall/dash, bracing your door posts if you use hard doors, etc. The Gozzard's are fawkin' nice. When I destroy mine, I hope to purchase a Gozzard.
I installed an aqualu tub/fenders/running boards about 7 years ago, and immediately had the whole cruiser painted. I think compared to the steel tubs they will almost end rust woes. I say almost because aluminum to steel leaves us with dissimilar metal corrossion problems. Yes sicaflex the heck out of it and shove in a stainless steel bolt. What this does is separates original steel from aluminum with the sicaflex barrier then we join it up again with the bolt. Most areas around where ever I had an aluminum to steel joint sicaflexed with a stanless steel bolt started to bubble the paint on the aluminum after about a year. I now have my curiser completely frame off and sanding through the bubbles I find a white rust like residue for lack of a better term aluminum rust, that will shed your paint. Don't get my message here wrong, I am keeping the aluminum tub and would buy another in a heart beat however I am looking for feedback from others as to how to prevent this corrosion from appearing again a year or so after my next paint job. Other than this problem the purchase of an aqualu tub is a no brainer, strong, light and even with the aluminum rust compared to steel we will probably never live long enough to see it deteriorate to the point of complete rust through.
the white rust, or dust is from electrolysis. I haven't had any noted in 2 years. but I didn't paint the hardware, I painted everything separate and made a lot of plastic washers out of milk jugs to further insulate. the stainless hardware has turned a little dull but no problems with flaking of paint
I live in SW Kansas, and am also in the hunt for a new tub. I'm curious though about the fitment with a stock hardtop. I like the look of the hardtop, and keep it on usually in the summer as well. It seems I've read somewhere on mud that the aqualu tub fits kinda different though. Not so sure about the heritage tubs though. Does anyone have any real world experiance with the hardtop fitment to the two tubs?
FineWynsFJ40
Too much to do...
Take a look at my FJ40 https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=123463 I have the stock hard top and Aqualu aluminum tub. The aluminum tub has been on for 3 years now. I had a guy do the painting for me, properly prepped and painted, used stainless hardware, and this past summer finished the hard top assembly and installation. The dissimilar metal corrosion problem actually is not a factor, aluminum and steel have been joined uninsulated so many times over history without a hitch. Your transfercase housing is aluminum, but the hardware and stuff it mounts to is regular steel, uninsulated from the Al. The stainless is more of a rust-prevention measure. Trust me, I know my metals! Mating the tub to frame is not that bad, for everything on an FJ40 has some sort of 'fudge factor' to it, and this was no different. Assembling the hard top on the tub was interesting, but everything now fits and seals 99% (nothing is ever truly 100% on a Land Cruiser...) I would do the Aqualu tub again in a heartbeat, everything is simple and straightforward on it. You won't be let down with it, I am completely satisfied with it. And for the finish of it, after being properly prepped, primed, and painted, it will look great with the rest of your cruiser. You could whack it with a hammer and not really put a dent in it so much as just scratch the paint. Steel is a very viable option for the 100% purist, but for the other 99% of us the aluminum is pretty much a wonderful way to go. This comes with the Al bias, as I have not seen or experienced a Gozzard tub, I'm merely sharing my experience and thoughts on the aluminum tub. Cheers, and good luck!!
Brian
Brian
I just bought a heritage tub and have to do some tac welding for some brackets on the bottom, fuel lines etc......It also is missing a few holes for the center console. So aside from being a pain in the ass to do the welding ( I cant weld, and wont attempt on such a pricey item), i think it will last for a long time. I plan to prep it, paint it, and undercoat it with the best i can find. So, does anyone know a welder in the delaware area ? Oh, did i mention the tub is ridicuosly expensive, i think i did.
FineWynsFJ40
Too much to do...
Jake, just curious, is the quality of the tub, and the whole package (having to weld, quality of fit, etc.) worth the price of it? An honest evaluation is something I think everybody would be curious about. Keep us updated, eh?
Brian
Brian
In Aviation we use a product called PRC, a polydisulfide sealer/adhesive. We use it between steel and aluminum faying parts...you put the parts together with the sealer when it is wet. You sink the bolts wet during assy. GOOD s***! And you usually don't see corrossion in these areas. Most of the fastners used in aviation are cadmium plated and this acts as a barrier between steel and aluminum , A s***ty one but still a barrier.
This is the same as all the hardware that Toyota uses , but once you add salt as the electroylyte it is game over and corrossion takes over. All the steel parts, other than body panels, are cadmium plated or yellow zinc as some call it. This is why there is not alot of dissimilar corrosion between the steel and aluminum parts on the Land cruisers, unless you are in an environment where they use salt, such as where I live. Sometimes trying to remove bolts holding aluminum and steel parts together is a major pain. The pars corrode and are almost impossible to remove!
Don't be fooled by the statement that aluminum is corrossion proof! It will turn to white powder if you don't protect it. The same goes for steel it will rust if you don't protect it...but it will rust alot sooner than aluminum will corrode.
The alclad coating on the aluminum is a very thin layer to act as a sacrificial anode...once scratched through it will attack the base material and blisters will form.
I have been fighting corrossion and rust on aircraft and my vehicles for 20 plus years....all I can say is none of these are is corrossion proof. Steel dies faster than aluminum but aluminum is much harder to repair than steel and if you seal out moisture and use inhibitors they will last a very long time.
I know that was alot of babbling but HTH's, Daryl
This is the same as all the hardware that Toyota uses , but once you add salt as the electroylyte it is game over and corrossion takes over. All the steel parts, other than body panels, are cadmium plated or yellow zinc as some call it. This is why there is not alot of dissimilar corrosion between the steel and aluminum parts on the Land cruisers, unless you are in an environment where they use salt, such as where I live. Sometimes trying to remove bolts holding aluminum and steel parts together is a major pain. The pars corrode and are almost impossible to remove!
Don't be fooled by the statement that aluminum is corrossion proof! It will turn to white powder if you don't protect it. The same goes for steel it will rust if you don't protect it...but it will rust alot sooner than aluminum will corrode.
The alclad coating on the aluminum is a very thin layer to act as a sacrificial anode...once scratched through it will attack the base material and blisters will form.
I have been fighting corrossion and rust on aircraft and my vehicles for 20 plus years....all I can say is none of these are is corrossion proof. Steel dies faster than aluminum but aluminum is much harder to repair than steel and if you seal out moisture and use inhibitors they will last a very long time.
I know that was alot of babbling but HTH's, Daryl
If you are handy with a welder it probably isnt too much of a pain to tac the clamps and such. As for the price....its a toss up. I just dont know. I guess it depends on what you plan to do with your cruiser and is the negative investment worth it? I plan to keep mine for around forever. So will it be worth it, i think so. I just with all the fuel line clamps and the side step holes were in place. I thought if i paid that much the standard stuff would be there. So know i have to dick around and find someone to help me weld that stuff. Here is a link to my never ending project.....
http://web.mac.com/mfields17/iWeb/Michelle/Landcruiser .html
http://web.mac.com/mfields17/iWeb/Michelle/Landcruiser .html
Okay, I am looking to do a new tub and cowl due to realy bad rust in both. In looking around I saw a company saying that their steel looked more like original than the al bodies. So does the outside of the AL bodies look that much different from the steel or is it just how the interior areas are done?
I realy want it to look normal on the outside but am not too concerned with square trans hump.
I realy want it to look normal on the outside but am not too concerned with square trans hump.
the tub looks fine, the cowl is a bit different, one less louver cut on the side, IIRC
check out alumacruisers thread: https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=104178
here's a pic of his rig:
check out alumacruisers thread: https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=104178
here's a pic of his rig:
Go to Iron Pig Off road in VA and trailer up a Heritage and while you are there trailer me back on also.
haha I don't think my '84 S-10 (2.8L) would be able to haul a tub that far... let alone two... but I do plan on bringing my axels up to cruiser creations next fall.. so we'll see if their tubs are any good - more than not i'll be going with gozzard's.. my dad worked with fiberglass for most of his younger years.. so that will help a ton with prepping and cutting...
on a side note, does anyone know if mike will make any of his tubs a color other than white... from what my dad was telling me if the fiberglass and the outer resin (i don't think thats what it is called) is the same color it is pretty easy to fix any scratches in the outer resin - but even if there are any it won't matter because the fiberglass underneath would be the same color... that would be sweet to just order every body part from gozzard's and just bolt them up together (not that easy.. but yeah)
on a side note, does anyone know if mike will make any of his tubs a color other than white... from what my dad was telling me if the fiberglass and the outer resin (i don't think thats what it is called) is the same color it is pretty easy to fix any scratches in the outer resin - but even if there are any it won't matter because the fiberglass underneath would be the same color... that would be sweet to just order every body part from gozzard's and just bolt them up together (not that easy.. but yeah)
You might want to get ahold of Buckroseau on the board. I read up on his build, and I know he was able to do a decent paint job. I know you have to use etching primer to make the paint bond well, but after that it just becomes a touch-up issue for scratches. Gel coat is fairly scratch resistant.
Why is it so hard to repair the AL tubs, is it because it bubbles/ warps?
You may want to check in to the availability of tubs from Gozzard. I tried to get a hold of him for months and didn't hear back from him until someone who knows him called him on my behalf. Even then, he said he'd have a tub for me over the holidays and I haven't heard back from him. I was trying to build an all glass cruiser but I've given up on him and am ordering an Aqualu so that I can get the parts I want in a reasonable time line. I did get the impression from emails with Mike that once he finishes this tub he's been working on he's going to concentrate on his boats instead. There may be the one tub there though that's close to being done if you ask nicely (and can miraculously get a response to your email). ...Steve
ha thanks for the info.. sadly I probably won't be buying a tub until the summer after this one... gonna try to work my way from the ground up.. the tub being the most expensive thing in this resto.. it'll be one of my last purchases... heh
Joe from supercruisers in prov RI actually just sent me a pm and said they have some aqualu tubs that have an aluminum cowl... seeing as my cowl is shot.. this tub might be the solution to my problems
-shame mike might not contine FJ40 tubs.. those things are beautiful
Joe from supercruisers in prov RI actually just sent me a pm and said they have some aqualu tubs that have an aluminum cowl... seeing as my cowl is shot.. this tub might be the solution to my problems
-shame mike might not contine FJ40 tubs.. those things are beautiful
In my opinion if it's not Steel, it's not a cruiser.
I would fix a stock in good condition before dumping money into a replica cruiser.
I would fix a stock in good condition before dumping money into a replica cruiser.
Unless your build isn't a restoration. I'm building a 40 I can drive and have fun with, not for it's value or collectability so an aluminum or glass tub makes more sense. Cheaper and longer lasting than steel and will suit my purpose just fine. I agree though, a resto should be steel and and original tub for sure. .....Steve
