Which to buy... is this too much rust?

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So I just went to look at a 2000 LC today. $7k listing. AZ for the first 16 years, Denver for the last 4. 200k miles, no rust (except one small part of the tailgate), but the clear coat is pretty much non-existent, a nice brick side swipe scratch along the side, and various other cosmetic flaws on the exterior. Timing belt was replaced at 125k so that's coming up this next year, and the power steering was just completely replaced along with the starter. Tires need to be replaced within the next few months. It was my first time ever driving a Land Cruiser after multiple 4Runners and I loved it. Like riding in a tank filled with pillows.

Now for $1k less, there is an '03 LC I'm going to look at tomorrow. 230k miles, KO2s, great condition inside and out, but the seller indicated that there is rust on the bottom. I asked him to send me pictures, and I can't really tell too much because it looks like it has been painted over. Seller said the car is originally from Georgia, and that he has had it for the past 3 years as his DD in Colorado.

Now I'm originally from the semi-southeast, so rust was always a HUGE no no when buying a car, but now that I'm in Denver I know it's much more common. My plan for the car is to just have a reliable DD and weekend overlander - nothing more strenuous than getting to the campsite with minor rocks. I've done a lot of thread browsing about rust, and people from different regions seem to have different viewpoints, and also the "always get the lowest miles with no rust because that's the only thing that kills a 100", but with the cosmetic repairs I'm going to have to do on the AZ Cruiser, along with new tires and a timing belt and $1k higher price tag, I'm wondering which is the better deal.

Thank you guys for any insight, both the sincere and inevitably sarcastic.
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Looks like some kind of coating. If its a rubber, non hard coating, then thats a big no no.

Also, you can start to see the the rear cross member is starting to crumble at the far driver side, hence the crumbling hole from what I seem to see. But then again, all 100s have that. Its a design flaw.

Dude, its $6k for 03. And $7k for a 2000. Beggars cant be choosers. You'd honestly be an idiot not to pick up that 03 even if it did have rust issues.

"Always get the lowest blah blah blah with least rust", yeah if you got months of patience and a fat bank account to drop $15-30k on one.
 
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Looks like some kind of coating. If its a rubber, non hard coating, then thats a big no no.

If it's just a regular treatment when I see it tomorrow, that should be better? After reverse license plate searching, I see it came from Ohio, then was brought to Georgia in '17, then here in Colorado shortly after. I think the rust may be from the previous owner.

I think where I'm torn, is that for $1k more, I get a rust free vehicle, but will have to put on new shoes almost immediately, and paint it relatively soon. Thanks for your reply.
 
If it's just a regular treatment when I see it tomorrow, that should be better? After reverse license plate searching, I see it came from Ohio, then was brought to Georgia in '17, then here in Colorado shortly after. I think the rust may be from the previous owner.

I think where I'm torn, is that for $1k more, I get a rust free vehicle, but will have to put on new shoes almost immediately, and paint it relatively soon. Thanks for your reply.
Well if you get the non rusty one, every dollar you sink into it, well it gets a return.
If you get the rusty one, every dollar you sink into it, there is less return because it is turning into dust and returning to earth.

Either or, if your expectation for a 18-21 year old vehicle is just paint, and new shoes, you're going to be in for a surprise because right off the bat, you will need to address getting it up to a certain state and condition if you want a dependable DD. These things aren't cheap to run either nor are parts. I can most definetly guarantee a 6-7K rig will need a couple thousand into it.
 
So the clear coat on the cheaper one is in bad shape and the other one may
Have some rust. Question for you...are you going to drop a bunch of money on paint or can you deal with busted paint

go take a look at 03 and see howthe rust actually is.
 
Well if you get the non rusty one, every dollar you sink into it, well it gets a return.
If you get the rusty one, every dollar you sink into it, there is less return because it is turning into dust and returning to earth.

Either or, if your expectation for a 18-21 year old vehicle is just paint, and new shoes, you're going to be in for a surprise because right off the bat, you will need to address getting it up to a certain state and condition if you want a dependable DD. These things aren't cheap to run either nor are parts. I can most definetly guarantee a 6-7K rig will need a couple thousand into it.

Ah, 100%. My thought process was, once the bushings inevitably go, I make it an excuse to lift a bit. Once these tires go, I can put some nice ATs on. I figure all-in for a dependable DD I'll come in around 10k-ish. And I'd be happy with that. But you think the 2000 with 200k miles looking like a beater on the exterior is a better investment than the 2003 with 230k miles and "some rust" on the frame?
 
So the clear coat on the cheaper one is in bad shape and the other one may
Have some rust. Question for you...are you going to drop a bunch of money on paint or can you deal with busted paint

go take a look at 03 and see howthe rust actually is.

The tight-wad in me would rather drop money on a lift with better suspension than the paint, and I think with the type of buyer base the LC has, that's the smarter way to go But man I love that grey and wish it was as pristine as the black 03. I'm more function over fashion, and at this point the clear coat catastrophe will just match my 4Runner...

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$1k in the whole scheme of things is nothing for a 100 series. You'll end up spending that easily on bits and bobs when bringing it to a better condition and state. New steering rack and lines would run you close to that.
 
The tight-wad in me would rather drop money on a lift with better suspension than the paint, and I think with the type of buyer base the LC has, that's the smarter way to go But man I love that grey and wish it was as pristine as the black 03. I'm more function over fashion, and at this point the clear coat catastrophe will just match my 4Runner...

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Yikes, I’m not a fan of black either. I bought a millennium silver 99 limited 4wd 4runner with perfect paint. Maybe hold off on both and be patient
 
Dude, its $6k for 03. And $7k for a 2000. Beggars cant be choosers. You'd honestly be an idiot not to pick up that 03 even if it did have rust issues.

"Always get the lowest blah blah blah with least rust", yeah if you got months of patience and a fat bank account to drop $15-30k on one.

I didn't see the rest of this - THAT'S HOW I FEEL. I'm like, at this price point I still trust that I will come around the same if not UNDER what I would find if I waited around for the "perfect" one. Thanks again for your reassurance. Hoping when I get under her tomorrow it's not too bad.
 
The tight-wad in me would rather drop money on a lift with better suspension than the paint, and I think with the type of buyer base the LC has, that's the smarter way to go But man I love that grey and wish it was as pristine as the black 03. I'm more function over fashion, and at this point the clear coat catastrophe will just match my 4Runner...

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This is typical of AZ Cruisers. Looks about like @knewstance ’s 100 🤪
 
This one just popped up in Denver. 2000, 130K miles, no rust. $6,500

2000 land cruiser excellent - cars & trucks - by owner - vehicle...

it's a scam. I had contacted him when it was a Facebook ad and he deleted it after scheduling a meeting time. The same car is listed in Orange County also. So one of them is a scam haha. I ended up going with the no rust for $6500. Much more clear maintenance records, and the seller seemed less like he was hiding something. The paint doesn't bother me too much anyway. Thanks all!
 
This one just popped up in Denver. 2000, 130K miles, no rust. $6,500

2000 land cruiser excellent - cars & trucks - by owner - vehicle...

I spoke to the seller on the phone... The ad seemed to good to be true, but the seller did have an explanation. Vehicle was moved from CA to CO, two owner (he supplied VIN and CARFAX). Was previously his Fathers. He said he previously listed for 10K and it did not get any hits. My impression is that he received an overwhelming response with the 6000 (then reposted at 6500). Spoke to him today and he said it was sold; I'm guessing someone bought it for asking or more. He was unwilling to take deposits; even though several people offered to lock-in first dibs when he returned to CO to sell this week.
 
Be rest assured- when Seeking our a used older model with Rust and miles- it’s best to find one with Maintenance records. That alone will clue you into what the vehicle will need. Go to Toyota website under customers, Vin number info should bring up all service records ever done.
You should certainly plan on baseline if all fluids, filters ,plugs and then anticipate the unexpected dash light. It could need a New Cat , it could need 2 new cats, o2 sensors, Or worse yet a brake booster system ($2200 part)..... maybe it needs a starter! My point is that you need $2500-5000 in mind to be a realistic price point in maintenance you may spend to have a dependable And excellent running vehicle. Who cares about paint, Lift, misc cosmetic at the time of Purchase..... Even surface rust can be resolved with a Oil spray that will saturate rust and resolve. The 2000 could have a transmission issue ( Yada yada yada- it’s documented)
So I’d seek out the records and ask the owner (How many) what has been done. Just my friendly opinion to the key of finding a well running rig
 
Just my $0.02; the 2000 LC is a $5500 vehicle, tops. The 2003 is a pass from me.

There are some good ones on the market right now, and while some of the pricing is absolutely absurd, there are much better examples out there. You're essentially shopping for a solid body; all mechanical items can be addressed, you can't (or shouldn't want to) deal with a crunchy frame and body. Same goes for paint, that's an expensive fix, and depending on your intentions for the vehicle, I can't imagine anybody wants peeling clear coat that will leave the body and pain susceptible. The sellers price should reflect that. I'd personally pass on both of those but keep your powder dry.
 

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