Which switch for the winch? (1 Viewer)

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iptman

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I'd want to run a switch for my M12000 under the hood and I'd like to hear opinions on which of these would be sufficient.

http://www.bluesea.com/products/9003e/e-Series_On_Off_Battery_Switch
10 sec - 2000A
1 min - 1000A
5 min - 600A
continuous - 350A

http://www.bluesea.com/products/3000/HD-Series_Heavy_Duty_On-Off_Battery_Switch
10 sec - 2750A
1 min - 1325A
5 min - 900A
continuous - 600A

I know the M12000 has a load rating of up to 450A but would it pull that for more than 5 minutes thus requiring the HD version?

Eventually I'd like to go with the Blue Sea ML-ACR for a dual battery setup which doesn't require a manual switch for self-jumping so whatever I do now will not be rendered obsolete.

I also have a group 31 DieHard marine battery and Toyota OEM TruStart battery that are both about a year old. Which should be my primary starting battery and which should be the backup? I think the winch will be connected to the primary/starting battery.

I know it's been talked about before and I've done lots of searches but I haven't seen any declaration of battery cable gauge for this setup.

Thanks,
Patrick
 
The 440A is for the full 12K lbs on the first layer. So it is unlikely that you're going spend more than five minutes pulling on the first layer. Looks like 350A will get you about 9K lbs: http://www.warn.com/truck/winches/src/M1200.shtml

So you have to decide how serious you are about your winch. If you're really stuck and operating at the limits of your winch, you could possibly burn out the switch. Worst case there is to make sure that you have a way to connect the wires and bypass the switch in that case.
 
Where are you planning to mount the switch? Attached to the side of the battery tray? I am planning a cutoff switch myself. Just curious what you are planning.
 
The smaller Bluesea will run just fine. I have had one on my m12000 for the past 10+ years. You will rarely be drawing 400+ amps and even if you are you will want to let the battery/batteries recover and allow the winch to cool down.

Make sure you get the off/1/2/both version so that you can select which battery (or both) provides power to the winch.

The internal guts of those Bluesea units is very heavy duty, it won't burn out unless totally abused long term.

mswitch.jpg


Basically a large hunk of copper that bridges across other large hunks of copper.

West Marine version of the 9001e installed in my patrol:

batsw.jpg


and a 9001e in my 80:

switch.jpg


cheers,
george.
 
Make sure you get the off/1/2/both version so that you can select which battery (or both) provides power to the winch.

Thank you. Regarding the switch, is there value to connecting both batteries to the switch if running a dual battery set up like an IBS or National Luna? I have the IBS system, and I can connect the dual batteries manually through the relay for heavy winching situations. That is, the winch will draw off the primary battery and also the auxiliary battery through the relay, when linked. If that type of linkage is sufficient, I would think that the regular on/off switch would suffice.

This is what I am talking about:

IBS_Schematic
 
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The advantage is you can choose which battery to kill rather than both during a nasty winching saga...

There's lots of ways to skin this cat and a lot comes down to personal preference. I like a big manual switch that I decide how power is routed rather than relying on a solenoid - but that's just my preference.

cheers,
george.
 
I'm not sure exactly what you are trying to achieve and I'd like to understand as I have a dual battery set-up and I'm in the process of physically installing my winch. Do you just want a switch to disconnect your winch from veh power, or do you want a switch that will connect both batteries to power your winch? (I don't see a switch for winch in the IBS sch). At the end of the day you should have a switch to disconnect veh power to battery in event of emergency, which is what I think you are trying to do. In my set-up, I have two Bluesea switches. One switch is used to connect both batteries, and the other switch is used to power the winch. A link to my dual battery install.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/448921-canmans-dual-battery-inverter-install.html

BTW, I used 1/0 welding cable for all of the wiring for my dual battery/ winch wiring.
 
I've adjusted my plan a little and will install an off/1/2/1+2 switch and the standard Blue Sea start isolation ACR. My goal is to be able to turn off power to the winch and also combine batteries for self jump. The SI ACR with the of/1/2/1+2 switch is significantly less than getting the ML ACR and standard on/off switch plus the larger gauge wire runs needed for the ML. I plan to run the winch and any additional accessories off the primary 31M Die Hard marine and use the second battery for emergency/self-jump only. I'm not running a fridge or inverters so my "house" draw will only be small car electronics like DVD players for the kids or a weather/CB radio. For cable I bought 1/0 gauge from a guy on Ebay who Skillet pointed me to. Cheapest around but already cut to 11ft lengths but that should be fine for my setup since I really only need to span from battery to switch to battery, then switch to winch.
 

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