Which plugs should I be running - B, 2B, 3B, H and 2H diesels (2 Viewers)

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Just fitted up a 12HT to HJ60, and trying to get the VSV to work after following Rudi's notes here.
I just cant get it to work, have done the jumper wire across the right relay on the FCR. Joined the OI & D wires together and fed to one side of the VSV, the other pin is to the M (white) on the male plug we cut off the old 2H motor harness, and a pig tail from this is earthed to the turbo cross over pipe where the VSV blots up.

Any help on what I may have hooked up wrong?

Thanks.
 
Just fitted up a 12HT to HJ60, and trying to get the VSV to work after following Rudi's notes here.
I just cant get it to work, have done the jumper wire across the right relay on the FCR. Joined the OI & D wires together and fed to one side of the VSV, the other pin is to the M (white) on the male plug we cut off the old 2H motor harness, and a pig tail from this is earthed to the turbo cross over pipe where the VSV blots up.

Any help on what I may have hooked up wrong?

Thanks.

Yo! I worked it out, as Rudi said, learn to read an electrical circuit and all fine.

Issue was when 12HT was installed forgot to put in the oil pressure switch off the 2H, this was compounded as the oil pressure sender unit had a spot on the outer body that would accept the spade connector (permanent attachment to ground circuit) IE: same as when there is no oil pressure! thus with this wire hooked incorrectly it completed the current path by passing the solenoids in the FCR! and no action on any pin and VSV!

Some detective work on how the oil pressure switch worked with mighty vac and multi meter confirmed the **** up on our part, simply took off the wrongly connected to ground wire and all good! it works! Only thing to do now is refit the missing sensor and hook the wire to it and the fail save will be active :)

Thanks to the boys who posted up this info too ;) I appreciate it.

Yoni.
 
Yo! I worked it out, as Rudi said, learn to read an electrical circuit and all fine.

Issue was when 12HT was installed forgot to put in the oil pressure switch off the 2H, this was compounded as the oil pressure sender unit had a spot on the outer body that would accept the spade connector (permanent attachment to ground circuit) IE: same as when there is no oil pressure! thus with this wire hooked incorrectly it completed the current path by passing the solenoids in the FCR! and no action on any pin and VSV!

Some detective work on how the oil pressure switch worked with mighty vac and multi meter confirmed the **** up on our part, simply took off the wrongly connected to ground wire and all good! it works! Only thing to do now is refit the missing sensor and hook the wire to it and the fail save will be active :)

Thanks to the boys who posted up this info too ;) I appreciate it.

Yoni.
Hi
 
Or technically you 'don't' need it ;) more correctly, as its closed contact with no oil pressure (FCR no workie)
and with oil pressure its open contact (FCR works).

Ghetto mod is leave the wire off to the oil pressure sender (in our case as its still sitting on the bench) and the whole mod path listed here works like a dream ;)

What we did incorrectly was to hook up this wire to the earth on the oil pressure sender body (as fitted on the 12HT) and this effectively said all the time to the FCR that there was zero oil pressure in the engine, thus it bypassed it and did not activate any solenoids.
 
Yes you don't really need it but when you rebuild a 12Ht the last thing is to run it with low oil pressure?
IMG_1368.jpg
 
Thanks for the info! I found out in another tread that the NGK 2188 is a replacement for the 19850-68060 and I found a seller right here in Quebec that has them in stock plus they ship for free.
 
Hi guys, i have a hj 45 with a 2H engine, im trying to figure out what plugs i need.
as far as i can tell i have a glow controller and as per the first post should be 8.5v plugs
but in the exceptions list it states that late model 2Hs run 11v plugs, i pulled out some bosch 11v plugs #0250 202 079

Should i be running 8.5v or 11v ? or do i need the engine number and go to toyota to find out from them ?
 
Hi guys, i have a hj 45 with a 2H engine, im trying to figure out what plugs i need.
as far as i can tell i have a glow controller and as per the first post should be 8.5v plugs
but in the exceptions list it states that late model 2Hs run 11v plugs, i pulled out some bosch 11v plugs #0250 202 079

Should i be running 8.5v or 11v ? or do i need the engine number and go to toyota to find out from them ?

Hi!, if you use a coil style resistor ,aka glow controller, standar relays from toyota, and 2h ,must be using 8.5volts style glow plugs.-
 
I really got burned on this one! :

My 1989 BJ-73 (3B w/ 24V system) was not starting up nicely in the mild cold. I thought worn glow plugs were the culprit so I replaced them with new 23V bosch plugs (pn 0250202097). They installed beautifully, and I confirmed that the plugs which came out were also 23V and they looked original (Denso brand).

After the new install, to my dismay, exact same problem; I had to turn the key over several times to warm up the cylinders enough to start nicely. After doing more research and landing on this thread, I've discovered that my Cruiser most likely has Toyota's super glow system. This is especially obvious because the glow plug dash light is variable, and stays on shorter when engine is warm.

So, I bought the wrong plugs and apparently so did the last owner.

Thank you @lostmarbles , great thread.
 
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Anyone know why the OP, Tom (lost marbles) has been so quite on the forums this last few years??? his posts were always a good informative read.
G
 
IIRC, Tom (@lostmarbles) was in an accident on the highway in NZ with his BJ and it was totalled.

 
@lostmarbles I believe I have a Wilson switch setup in my 2H (12v) conversion. It's a momentary switch and I just guess at how long to keep it pressed, depending on ambient temperature.

I've been having intermittent starting issues and am wondering if I'm losing voltage because of a failed glow plug. Do you know what resistance values I should find at each glow plug?

This is what you said I should find in my setup (donor was an 86 HJ60 from Canada, converted to 12v)

Fixed delay 10.5V
Toyota 19850-68010, NGK Y-147T, Denso DG232
Bosch GPT218, Champion CH133, HKT PT 145

Thanks,

Ara Dileepan
 
I really got burned on this one! :

My 1989 BJ-73 (3B w/ 24V system) was not starting up nicely in the mild cold. I thought worn glow plugs were the culprit so I replaced them with new 23V bosch plugs (pn 0250202097). They installed beautifully, and I confirmed that the plugs which came out were also 23V and they looked original (Denso brand).

After the new install, to my dismay, exact same problem; I had to turn the key over several times to warm up the cylinders enough to start nicely. After doing more research and landing on this thread, I've discovered that my Cruiser most likely has Toyota's super glow system. This is especially obvious because the glow plug dash light is variable, and stays on shorter when engine is warm.

So, I bought the wrong plugs and apparently so did the last owner.

Thank you @lostmarbles , great thread.

UPDATE:

Finally got around to putting the CORRECT glow plugs in my Cruiser. First, though, I took a multi-meter to the system to see what it was actually doing. 1st stage of the super glow was @ ~19V (a bit weak), second went to ~14V as predicted. With properly rated plugs now, the car fires up like a champ.
 
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This is a great thread, with tons of good information. One question for me remains. Other than spending $30 a glow plug at Toyota dealership, are there any good sources for Bosch GPT207 plugs in the US? I have a 24v BJ40 and finding the right glow plugs is turning into a challenge.
 
Found a good price on 24V Glow Plugs at https://trupar.com/. Fork lift parts website. Right at $10 apiece for Toyota part number 19850-68040. Description says:

This aftermarket Toyota 19850-68040 glow plug, will perform as well or better than the Toyota glow plug itself, at a fraction of the price.

We shall see. I'm concerned about the "aftermarket" nature of the plug, for for $10 apiece it's worth taking one for the team and trying 'em out.
 

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