I am thinking of buying a Bj60 for exploring the back wooks. Is there any thing I should be aware of on these models? How do they compare to the Fj60? Any help would be great.
Tim
Tim
Which one is best??
- Thread starter waldrtw
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HJ60? :
Between those two, i'd still go diesel. Fuel is cheaper ( at least here) and you will get better mileage. Plus you will have a H55F to boot. Then again, for a "woods" truck, none of these thing are really required. If it's going to be a beater, buy the cheapest option.
Between those two, i'd still go diesel. Fuel is cheaper ( at least here) and you will get better mileage. Plus you will have a H55F to boot. Then again, for a "woods" truck, none of these thing are really required. If it's going to be a beater, buy the cheapest option.
i like bjs
HZJ60 Guy
Tank Buster
Well who the hell doesnt?
Between the HJ and BJ I'd take the HJ. Hell, I did buy an HJ. The B series engine is a great engine.
You should email Rob Lassman at Radd Cruisers and ask him. Rob is the man when it comes to answering questions about 3B's
http://www.raddcruisers.ca/left.htm
TB
Someone has to weigh in on the side of the poor FJ60. The 3B is not enough engine for a big old wagon, go with the 2F if fuel cost is not your primary concern. The 3B is just about adequate for a SWB cruiser (I have a BJ70), but I shudder to think of trying to move my FJ60's girth with it.
(zipping up Nomex suit...)
Oh, and I agree that the HJ60 would be the best choice of the three...
(zipping up Nomex suit...)
Oh, and I agree that the HJ60 would be the best choice of the three...
cruiser_guy
Out of Africa / North Africa
I have not owned an HJ60 but I have had 2 BJ60's (still have one). They are not in the same league as a Porshe or Ferrari for acceleration but then it's a 4x4 not a sports car. Personally, I think the 3B is a superior engine over the 2H. I am of the understanding that the power of the 3B is roughly equal to the 2H and the economy is slightly better.
The 3B has the torque to keep pulling. My kid has hauled an FJ55 (her truck) over the rockies with a non-turbo BJ60. I've hauled an FJ55 body on a flat bed out of LA (yes up and over Gorman without overheating or stopping to cool down). I've flat towed an FJ62 carcass back from San Diego (up and over Gorman again and still not over heating) both times with a turbo'd BJ60! On the flats I can maintain 65mph hauling either of the combinations listed above and still pass most gas stations.
For back woods exploration the 3B will get you further in on a tank of fuel as an idling diesel just sips fuel.
You may have guessed that my money is on the humble 3B! If you want more power add a turbo or go with the 13B-T.
The 3B has the torque to keep pulling. My kid has hauled an FJ55 (her truck) over the rockies with a non-turbo BJ60. I've hauled an FJ55 body on a flat bed out of LA (yes up and over Gorman without overheating or stopping to cool down). I've flat towed an FJ62 carcass back from San Diego (up and over Gorman again and still not over heating) both times with a turbo'd BJ60! On the flats I can maintain 65mph hauling either of the combinations listed above and still pass most gas stations.
For back woods exploration the 3B will get you further in on a tank of fuel as an idling diesel just sips fuel.
You may have guessed that my money is on the humble 3B! If you want more power add a turbo or go with the 13B-T.
Well there are 3 BJs, a 2H and a 12H-T in my family (both bros have Cruisers) and one gasser....
I wouldn't trade any of the deisels for any version of the F engine.
As for which one is best...On the street I would take the 12H-T, 2H and then the 3B. The 3B does have nice low end grunt and is my choice for a turdod engine or a rock crawler....The 2H will out pull the 3B, both with 5spds and the same gears in the difs. ahhh, but that 3B is such a nice engine too.... A little easier to find parts for, has piston skirt cooling, it's sleeved......
Either is a good choice if you are looking for a deisel.
I wouldn't trade any of the deisels for any version of the F engine.
As for which one is best...On the street I would take the 12H-T, 2H and then the 3B. The 3B does have nice low end grunt and is my choice for a turdod engine or a rock crawler....The 2H will out pull the 3B, both with 5spds and the same gears in the difs. ahhh, but that 3B is such a nice engine too.... A little easier to find parts for, has piston skirt cooling, it's sleeved......
Either is a good choice if you are looking for a deisel.
If you wanted to convert an FJ60 to one of the diesel engines - okay, that's the setup, here's where it breaks into two questions:
a) is it a feasable conversion, or a real pain
b) if you live in an area that requires smog testing, would you pass?
So that this isn't a total hijack, can't you expect to get more miles out of any of the diesels than a 2F? My 2F has 205k miles on it, and probably plenty left, but the life span of a diesel is generally much higher...thoughts?
a) is it a feasable conversion, or a real pain
b) if you live in an area that requires smog testing, would you pass?
So that this isn't a total hijack, can't you expect to get more miles out of any of the diesels than a 2F? My 2F has 205k miles on it, and probably plenty left, but the life span of a diesel is generally much higher...thoughts?
HZJ60 Guy
Tank Buster
To answer at least part of your question Swankster, I'll repost my answer from the bio thread in the International diesel area:
"Here is a story for you James. I bought a 1987 HJ-60 that had been imported into the US. I picked it up in Jackson hole Wyoming. After I got it back to Seattle I had to get it registered and titled in Washington. To do so required an EMISSIONS test. Well ya sure buddy on that one passing. 465,000 klms. No catalytic converter, no anything. So as I drive my 2001 TDI VW on 33% bio I decided to try the 2H. I ran her out of fuel (close) and filled up at the nearest bio station (Bellevue Washington) and then I drove her around for 2 hours. After showing up at the emissions test site they had a hard time with the 60 having a diesel. After much convincing they tested her and she PASSED! They made the typical "Hey it smells like french fries" comment, but that was ok.
I have sence gone to a 1995 1HZ in my 60 and I plan on running 25% bio in her. The main reason I use it is because of the lubricating properties. Your bloody engine will last a million miles if you use that stuff."
So Swank, even if you live in a smog area you can MAKE your rig pass if you just find some bio diesel.......
TB
"Here is a story for you James. I bought a 1987 HJ-60 that had been imported into the US. I picked it up in Jackson hole Wyoming. After I got it back to Seattle I had to get it registered and titled in Washington. To do so required an EMISSIONS test. Well ya sure buddy on that one passing. 465,000 klms. No catalytic converter, no anything. So as I drive my 2001 TDI VW on 33% bio I decided to try the 2H. I ran her out of fuel (close) and filled up at the nearest bio station (Bellevue Washington) and then I drove her around for 2 hours. After showing up at the emissions test site they had a hard time with the 60 having a diesel. After much convincing they tested her and she PASSED! They made the typical "Hey it smells like french fries" comment, but that was ok.
I have sence gone to a 1995 1HZ in my 60 and I plan on running 25% bio in her. The main reason I use it is because of the lubricating properties. Your bloody engine will last a million miles if you use that stuff."
So Swank, even if you live in a smog area you can MAKE your rig pass if you just find some bio diesel.......
TB
cruiser_guy
Out of Africa / North Africa
Here in B.C. we have had smog testing for the last 10 years or so and both BJ60's have passed easily. One was almost not allowed in because of blowby but once it was rerouted it passed with no problems!
A diesel rarely will fail emissions and then only if it is badly out of adjustment.
A diesel rarely will fail emissions and then only if it is badly out of adjustment.
HZJ60 Guy
Tank Buster
"A diesel rarely will fail emissions and then only if it is badly out of adjustment."
I wonder what kind of testing you guys do. Down here they stick a probe up your tail pipe (no jokes please) and then a sensor is placed out side. They then red line the truck a few times and IF IF IF IF the sensor picks up the laser light coming out of the tail pipe you pass.
The trouble is that the sensor has to be able to read the light WHILE they are red line-ing and producing all that smoke.
TB
I wonder what kind of testing you guys do. Down here they stick a probe up your tail pipe (no jokes please) and then a sensor is placed out side. They then red line the truck a few times and IF IF IF IF the sensor picks up the laser light coming out of the tail pipe you pass.
The trouble is that the sensor has to be able to read the light WHILE they are red line-ing and producing all that smoke.
TB
Diesels are WAY more predictable than those inferior gassers...they ALWAYS start unless A) glow plugs burnt out or B) you're out of fuel or C) your dumb a$$ forogt to plug in the block heater whereas gassers you take a chance on flooding it or waste two hours trying to figure out why you've just lost spark
No emissions...no web of vacuum lines...cheaper fuel....more torque...last longer
So what if a FJ beats you by two feet in the quarter mile...LIVE WITH IT
And there's my two cents
Geoff
No emissions...no web of vacuum lines...cheaper fuel....more torque...last longer
So what if a FJ beats you by two feet in the quarter mile...LIVE WITH IT
And there's my two cents
Geoff
cruiser_guy
Out of Africa / North Africa
HJZ60 Guy said:
Here we also have the probe up the tailpipe routine but they are a little more intelligent than just stomping on the accelerator (that would get me some ticked off). They run through a predetermined "course" on the dyno moving through all gears and all speeds. If the opacity is under 20% you pass and normally the opacity is only 1 or 2% at worst!
