Where to apply RTV when replacing oil pan and main cap? (1 Viewer)

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Just checking where should I apply RTV when replacing the oil pan and main cap? I have both off right now. None seemed to have any RTV when I removed. I have a fresh OEM cork oil pan gasket.

http://www.trollholescruisers.com/Tech/Manuals/Engine/1980 2F Motor FSM.pdf

The engine FSM seems to mention the corners of the pan around page 45 (3-52), but I'm unclear on which surfaces should get RTV if any.

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Can anyone clarify?
 
i used the oil pan sealant from toyota. i highly recommend it. better than any other rtv i've ever used. i put it on the entire gasket and stuck it to the block and lined the holes up. then put it on the underside and stuck the pan to it. quickly put corner bolts in and from there filled the rest of the holes and tightened them up. sealed perfectly.
 
There's like a hundred schools of thought on this question. FSM says just the corners of I remember correctly... that has worked for some, but not for others. I was pretty liberal with the Toyota RTV. Here's a very good how to, but there are many other threads that walk you through the process if you search...

Oil Pan Gasket Replacement - Land Cruiser Tech from IH8MUD.com
 
I no longer buy gaskets for oil pans.... I just get a tube of "Right Stuff" - for Oil Applications

All three of my Toyota Land cruisers have zero oil leaks now. Easier and it works so well.
 
There is a pic of the area to cover in the fsm... without digging it out of the interwebs( chech 40 series tech) it is basically a tiny bit of fipg around the seal well and outer bolts- not anywhere near enough to the bearing for it to ooze into the raceway. And with proper torque, it'll ooze... small thin layer evenly spread... keep in mind, those outer 2 bolts are visible without dropping the pan , right? That's what you're trying to seal here...
 
^^^^^ x 2 what lambcrusher said.


What I have found with oil pans in general is to make sure they are super super super clean and dry. I usually remove them and let them drip for 24 hours, then hit them with brake clean. I apply a thin coat of FIPG to both sides of the gasket and a little dab in corners. Proper torque and tightening sequentially is highly important. I usually start in the middle and work my way outward in an alternating pattern just till I feel the slightest bit of resistance, then go back and torque the same pattern.

Just my way, I'm sure there are others.
 
I like to let the fipg tack up and "glue" the gasket to the pan. I'll smear fipg on the bottom face of the gasket and put it on the pan lip, then put the cleaned up bolts down thru the holes to keep the gasket lined up while the glue sticks...
 
I like to let the fipg tack up and "glue" the gasket to the pan. I'll smear fipg on the bottom face of the gasket and put it on the pan lip, then put the cleaned up bolts down thru the holes to keep the gasket lined up while the glue sticks...
I do the same.
 

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