Where can I find an FJ80 TRE 21mm weld in bung (1 Viewer)

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As the title states: I’m stuck.

Need a 21mm weld in bung for LH and RH threaded sides to finish up the steering in my Samurai. I can’t find anything online with the exception of the Marlin Crawler kit that uses both 21 and 23mm ends. Clearly the have the bungs, but they will not sell them to me.

Does anyone know of anything out there? If not, I guess I’ll be returning what I can and going with the GM stuff.

Thanks
 
Got a drawing, I have a lathe and some 2" 4140 bar. As long as this is Off Road ONLY.
 
Got a drawing, I have a lathe and some 2" 4140 bar. As long as this is Off Road ONLY.
NVRMND, I didn't understand what you are looking for, got in now.
 
You can use the 23mm ends at all 4 points, instead of 21 and 23...the tapered studs are the same AFAIK. (unless you're stuck on using the 21mm because you already own them or something...)
 
Curious if the 21mm weld in bung for LH and RH thread was ever found. I have hunted with no luck. At the conclusion of my recent knuckle rebuild I noticed my relay rod is bent so I want to build one up. I prefer not to go to 23mm ends as I want to keep the steering stabilizer installation as designed by Toyota.

Anyone?
 
I don't know who sells 21mm bungs.
But I would just upgrade to 23mm on all 4 ends if your welding them in anyway.

Ruffstuff or Trailgear sells weld in bungs.

I would upgrade the TRE and Drag link to 1.5" DOM tube and 23mm bungs. All of which can be bought at Ruffstuff cheaper than you can buy a premade one. Easy and fun weld job.
 
Curious if the 21mm weld in bung for LH and RH thread was ever found. I have hunted with no luck. At the conclusion of my recent knuckle rebuild I noticed my relay rod is bent so I want to build one up. I prefer not to go to 23mm ends as I want to keep the steering stabilizer installation as designed by Toyota.

Anyone
You can keep the stabilizer while using 1.25 or 1.5 tube. Just buy the right sized rod clamp. mini truck guys do this exact method.
 
I previously had tierods made up with 4130 solid round bar, and had a shop bore and tap the bar ends to suit.
4130 is easier to machine and weld. And using round bar kept the diameter similar to stock tierid size.

Didn't cost me a lot at the time.

For the relay rod weld a tab on for the damper, or use a clamp on bracket
 
For the relay rod weld a tab on for the damper

This is probably what I will do unless I can find a local shop to machine something for me. I am really trying to keep it close to oem though.

Thanks,
 

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