I put some cardboard in front of the radiator on mine and it is heating up nicely now, but i will check for the upper thermostat gasket as soon as i get a chance.
When your 60 heat works well....
- Thread starter Zack1978
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Mine is the exact opposite. Cold when I am rolling, warms up when I am idling. The back heater is always hot though...
So do you pull the wiper motor? to access this area.
I am very interested in fixing this issue
Yup, you get to the intake right behind the wiper motor. The arm pops off the motor. It will probably feel like it's going to break but it pops out.
Dude thanks- the pic rocks.
My air flow is about 50% less when its on recec vs outside air. I will start mine now. Despite the high temp of 25 deg today
Guys...if you are blocking off the radiator to get heat then it's logical to supsect that the thermostat needs to be replaced along with the "o" ring and gasket. You should not have to block the radiator on a gas engine to get heat.....unless you are in conditions like Canada or Alaska...
Since you have heat now after blocking the radiator...that tells you that your "heat system" does function.
Chanage the thermostat, gasket and o-ring.
Since you have heat now after blocking the radiator...that tells you that your "heat system" does function.
Chanage the thermostat, gasket and o-ring.
In my case, when I am driving. The guage regesters less than a 1/8th of a inch on the stock temp guage. (not very much heat)
If I let the car sit in the driveway running. The guage will reach the middle of the stock guage. At this point I have plenty of HEAT.
Once I start driving the guage drops down to the less that 1/8th mark and poor heat.
I had concidered the cardboard idea. (I am sure it would work)
I don't have any idea. Do thermostats go bad and allow to cold a engine temp? I was thinking my radiator is just to effictive. I rarely excede 50 mph. Mostly drive a slow speeds, and lower RPM
++++++ CLR +++ works great also
Thermostats do go bad. Its an easy fix and not expensive. If my heater did not work that's one of the first things I'm going to do, if not just to verfyt that its working. Many people leave off the "o" ring when they replace the thermostat as...has been dicussed here on the forum many times. I suspect some of you guys don't even have a thermostat.
Don't listen to people who advocate not running a thermostat...my first question to someone like that is "Why does every OEM MFG on the planent install them, and then my second question would be...WHen its freezing @$$ outside how do you expect to get any heat.
Personally I figure out in a short period of time why I'm freezing..usually its somethign to do with the cooling system and not the mechanical components under the dash. If your truck does not even reach operating temp going down the road...that's a dead clue that (1) you don't have a thermostat or (2) your o-ring is missing (3) your thermostat needs to be replaced..
The main function of the thermostat is to mantain a certain temp range for the engine to operate. Its not good at all for the engine to run too cool. and also on the same thought line, of course its not good to overheat the engine. If you do not have a thermostat or its stuck open... your coolant continually circulates through the system without ever building any heat and so the result is that you freeze your @$$.
Potentially you could have air in the coolant passenges or low on coolant. But I would bet a new thermostat +gasket+o-ring will solve your issues, or at least get you to where you can see what the real issue is. Both heater hoeses that feed the heater core should be hot to the touch when truck is fully warmed up and the heat is turned to max hot.
x2 You shouldn't NEED to block off flow to the rad till you hit ~0*F
The heat has never been "hot", I just assumed it was one of the idiosycrincies of the rigs
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Actually I was under the same impression, as my heat has also never been "hot"! And I know that my therm is good, and the o-ring is intact. I was thinking little was just a 60 situation, like an air-cooled VW.
Zack
I just put a new radiator, thermostat and hoses on my 60, and it will cook you out of the front seats. The temp gauge doesn't get above 1/3.......
not really a symptom of old age!!.. The LC has the old school heat setup which works fine. MY LC is a 1986 model so its some 22 years old now. When I bought it back in 2006...it had the stock I-6 engine and most everything under the hood looked stock. Any vehicle that is that old needs hoses and other general maintence done..
All we can "see" from here is what words are shared with us. Its easy to see if the truck reaches operating temp, then its easy to check and see if the heater hoses that the feed the heater core are hot to the touch on both sides of the heater core. You have to make sure your truck is full of coolant. Generally speaking most heater core problems are due to leaks. Before I went to the trouble of replacing the heater core on a LC I would double check everything and attempt to backflush or clean the core, it I were able to verfy that there were no other problems.
You also have a heater control valve sitting on the firewall that controls the temp of the water coming into the core...does it work. Its also easy to replace. But most if not all heater problems generally relate to the thermostat, or something related to the coolign system.
The heat on my LC works very well...I do have a issue with the rear heater core but that of my own doing and is related to the engine swap. With the stock I-6 I had no issues. But it was a pain in the but to bleed the air out of hte system when I changed the thermostat.
All we can "see" from here is what words are shared with us. Its easy to see if the truck reaches operating temp, then its easy to check and see if the heater hoses that the feed the heater core are hot to the touch on both sides of the heater core. You have to make sure your truck is full of coolant. Generally speaking most heater core problems are due to leaks. Before I went to the trouble of replacing the heater core on a LC I would double check everything and attempt to backflush or clean the core, it I were able to verfy that there were no other problems.
You also have a heater control valve sitting on the firewall that controls the temp of the water coming into the core...does it work. Its also easy to replace. But most if not all heater problems generally relate to the thermostat, or something related to the coolign system.
The heat on my LC works very well...I do have a issue with the rear heater core but that of my own doing and is related to the engine swap. With the stock I-6 I had no issues. But it was a pain in the but to bleed the air out of hte system when I changed the thermostat.
Mine got plenty warm just sitting as well - it is only when I am rolling that it got cold. Of course, that is when it was 6 deg f and windchill of -18. now that it is 30ish - the cardboard has come out. Thermostat and heater core flush will have to wait anyway. I do all of my maintenence on the driveway...
Elbert:
You state: "You have to make sure your truck is full of coolant."
In my case, I am pretty sure (let's say I'm 95% sure!) that my truck's system is full of coolant. What, in your opinion, are things to check so that I can be 100% sure that my truck is full of coolant?
For example: I had the truck hot (after a 20 minute drive) and idling in the driveway. I loosened the clamp on the high hose on the heater valve. Hot coolant came out instantly. That told me that it was full.
What other things could I check to make sure that the truck is full of coolant?
Thanks.
You state: "You have to make sure your truck is full of coolant."
In my case, I am pretty sure (let's say I'm 95% sure!) that my truck's system is full of coolant. What, in your opinion, are things to check so that I can be 100% sure that my truck is full of coolant?
For example: I had the truck hot (after a 20 minute drive) and idling in the driveway. I loosened the clamp on the high hose on the heater valve. Hot coolant came out instantly. That told me that it was full.
What other things could I check to make sure that the truck is full of coolant?
Thanks.
Rigger,
first a word of caution... don't remove the radiator cap when the truck is hot or at operating temperature, this also includes hoses and clamps.
Since the water neck on the yota OEM radiator is at 90 degrees its hard to tell by looking in the radiator to see if the thing is full or not.
When the truck is cold...open the radiator cap and see if you can add any coolant to the radiator, otherwise look at the radiator overflow tank and see if its full, if not fill to full mark. This is the only way to tell if the truck is full or not.
After filling radiator and overflow tank to full, I would start truck and let it run with both heaters turned max hot, I would then attempt to add additional coolant to the radiator if possible. Then close radiator cap and run engine until warmed up. With heat on "hot"...all your heater hoses should be hot.
first a word of caution... don't remove the radiator cap when the truck is hot or at operating temperature, this also includes hoses and clamps.
Since the water neck on the yota OEM radiator is at 90 degrees its hard to tell by looking in the radiator to see if the thing is full or not.
When the truck is cold...open the radiator cap and see if you can add any coolant to the radiator, otherwise look at the radiator overflow tank and see if its full, if not fill to full mark. This is the only way to tell if the truck is full or not.
After filling radiator and overflow tank to full, I would start truck and let it run with both heaters turned max hot, I would then attempt to add additional coolant to the radiator if possible. Then close radiator cap and run engine until warmed up. With heat on "hot"...all your heater hoses should be hot.
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Ok, so no answers, but a little different problem:
When I am driving around town, my temp gauge is nearly pegged (like the thermostat hasn't opened, and there is a hot spot in the engine water passage at the sender). Oddly, when this is happening both heaters blow cold. When I get on the highway and drive 4-5 minutes the temp gage drops to the center of the range, and the air blowing from both heaters comes up to normal, right away. Does the heater core only flow when the thermostat is open? Seems unusual, but is the only way I can explain the symptoms!
Thanks for your help!
Dan
When I am driving around town, my temp gauge is nearly pegged (like the thermostat hasn't opened, and there is a hot spot in the engine water passage at the sender). Oddly, when this is happening both heaters blow cold. When I get on the highway and drive 4-5 minutes the temp gage drops to the center of the range, and the air blowing from both heaters comes up to normal, right away. Does the heater core only flow when the thermostat is open? Seems unusual, but is the only way I can explain the symptoms!
Thanks for your help!
Dan
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