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I’ve ran FCPs on both my 100 and 200 and have been very happy. As long as you get your spring rates right I don’t think you will be disappointed.
What's your experience with Ironman suspension? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter TheRealPoser
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awesomeissquid
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If been toying with the idea of the Ironman FCPs. Just one thing that I picked up on in my research, it seems within the past year they changed the valving within the shock. They previously offered a comfort and a performance valving but they removed the comfort option. Some have mentioned not liking the new, but I don’t know how true or big of an issue that actually is. Just wanted to point that out if you didn’t see it.
- Thread starter
- #23
Interesting. I've been going back and forth a bit with a rep at Ironman, I'll see if he can comment on this.
Same thing old man emu did, followed by people dropping them for use one 100 series. Dumb move if they also did this.
- Thread starter
- #25
Ok, I'm going to hijack my own thread a bit. Any tips on spring selection? I'm just beginning my build, and I'm going against the sage advice to add the heavy items before selecting a suspension. I have a BIOR rear bumper on order with a single swing out for the spare. Based on the reading I've done on the forum, I'd estimate that to be ~230 lb with the spare. I also have some steel sliders on order. I'm going to use the LC mainly for camping trips. When on a camping road trip there are 5 of us in the car plus the back end is filled up. I've never weighed the gear, but maybe another 150 lb give or take? It's not carrying as much as it could, as I'm usually pulling a small trailer too that is filled up. Between the trailer and bikes on a split stinger hitch rack there is another 300 lb of tongue weight easy.
Based on this, I could justify some pretty heavy springs. However, I also don't want the ride to be crazy firm when I'm not towing and loaded. Usually I set up base camp and drop the trailer and unload some of the gear before going offroad.
Ironman has performance springs advertised for 0-440 lb payload, or constant load for 440-880 lb. Seems the vehicle payload (including bumper) will be pushing 400. If I wanted the springs to manage the tow tongue weight I'd definitely go up to the next level. However, I've had good luck with spring air bags for leveling with the towing on my current rig, so I'm thinking to go that direction with the LC. Even so, I'm a little nervous I'll be loaded close to the max end and then the trailer will compress too much even with the airbags.
I'm also a little nervous if I go for the 440-880 payload springs I'll be getting my teeth knocked out all the rest of the time and when offroad. But I also don't want to go to all the trouble to upgrade suspension and then be dragging a$$ when loaded and kicking myself. I know that when I drive my current rig unloaded and forget to let the air out of the air bags it feels like I have concrete springs. Any advice from those who have gone before me on which way you'd go if you were to do it again would be super helpful.
My 3rd set of springs arrives tomorrow. I've progressively upgraded my springs as I've added more stuff to the rig. Started with performance, went to constant and now going extra-constant. I'm pretty heavy right now and hope that the extra constant springs will level out the rear so I can get proper rake and get away from the bobbing boat feel on the freeway. Should have them on in a week or so.... Currently have a Steel Dissent rear bumper with swing out and large accessory panel. Have a skinny 34" tire on swing out, 6# propane tank, ARB Jack, Drawer system filled with tools and camp grear, CFX 45 Dometic, 270 XT awaning, RTT etc.........
David*BJ70
Looking forward to reach the end of the world
I am not complaining about my OME although they are a bit stiff. I also subsequently watched the FCP that seem to be excellent shocks but at 300$ a piece... it is a step over the OME and it look there is no deal on individual part
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- Thread starter
- #28
Do you mind elaborating on what pushed you over from performance to constant? Even though I don't have drawers, I still expect to have the back crammed full. With my current 4th gen 4Runner I have the back totally crammed full of gear and even a roof bag most of the time, so there's quite a bit of weight. No fridge, but a cooler full of food and ice is still pretty heavy. And who knows how much longer I can stand having to buy ice every day and dealing with waterlogged food. I'm also thinking to go to ~34" tires after the lift, so the spare will be heavy.
I'm pretty curious what amount of gear you had if you can roughly remember that made you get fed up of the performance to jump to constant. Based on your comment I'm wondering if performance will not be enough for me and I'd immediately regret it on the first trip. With the stock springs I'm surprised how much they compress when I sit on the tailgate without anything else in the car, and I'm not a big guy....
In general i went from performance to constant as I was just too heavy. As I added weight, there was a significant sagging in the rear. Also driving the bouncing of the rear end was scary and dangerous. I've got the performance in the garage sitting and will have the constant removed next week. Since you are on the west coast I'll make you a deal if you need them. I don't daily the truck so I keep it loaded at all times for the ease of just jumping in and taking off when I want too.
Stock springs are probably not as lively as they used too after 20 years. Performance was great until I started going ham and upgraded much faster than I did. In reality I should have started with Constant knowing which direction I was going. I was fortunate enough to do a massive order and not have my wife murder me for my build so my weight calculations that was planned across a few years all came in within months.
- Thread starter
- #30
David - yeah, on sale they are not in a similar range to a Dobinson setup on sale or a Bilstein 5160 setup. Certainly not the most expensive, but not cheap either 
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Based on what you are saying I would probably do the 440+ springs. Sometimes it just takes some trial and error. The nice thing is changing rear springs is only about a 30 minute job and springs are easy to resale. I probably went through 6 different springs on my 100 and now 5 on my 200.
- Thread starter
- #32
I'll send you a DM
Adjustable Tough Dog Rear shocks from Trail Tailor are amazing. Cadillac off road, turn them up to lessen body roll on road. Great for a DD rig.
- Thread starter
- #34
Bummer, the Trail Tailor website says "DUE TO INCREASED OVERSEAS SHIPPING COSTS AND EXTENDED LEAD TIMES, TOUGH DOG PRODUCTS WILL NOT BE RESTOCKED IN THE FORESEEABLE FUTURE"
I started out with the 440+ Ironman Springs. I now have a drawer system in the rear loaded down and an ARB 63qt fridge. My 100 lb spare sits above the rear in my roof basket. I have a steal rear bumper on order and the spare will move to a swingout but the bumper will still add more weight. I'm definately going to need the heaviest rear spring next.
Just swapped to the extra constant springs and much happier with the ride, but I think I've got alot more weight than you.
Not specific to a 100 but Ironman observation NTL.
I installed a 2" Ironman lift on my BJ73. I found the springs exceedingly stiff and teeth jarring. I have considered removing a leaf. I have eaten shackle bushings quickly.
I installed a 2" Ironman lift on my BJ73. I found the springs exceedingly stiff and teeth jarring. I have considered removing a leaf. I have eaten shackle bushings quickly.
Regarding IM susp and springs... this was my progress and experience...
'04 LX w/ AHC --> Swap to OE LC100 susp (OE Toyota TB, and rear springs, shocks) & Whiteline Sway bars Fr+Rr --> Lift w/ IM 30mm spacer + TB Crank
-AHC rode best until it started failing. Repairs didnt last long.
-OE LC100 susp was fine... for a while, no off roading.
-OE LC100 + spacer and TB crank, still stock ride w/ slight more lift, kept 3/4-1" rake.
-Then later swapped it all out for IM Nitro 2" kit w/ IM TB's + Reinforce bracket, 0-440 springs, Diff drop, SPC UCA, extended SB endlinks, etc.
This gave a nice lift, and rode great. Kept a 3/4 - 1" rake. No complaints. Performed well off road.
Added Fr metal bumper, Drawer, Fridge, etc. and still ok.
Next, Added Rr Metal bumper w/ Spare. Now the rear springs were too soft.
-Swapped to IM FCP shocks Fr+Rr. and rear spring swap 0-440 --> 440-880, and cranked TB accordingly.
Ride felt a bit more firm, but not harsh. More sporty and controlled. Happy with it.
Unfortunately it still sagged.
-Installed 30mm Rear IM coil spacer. Sit proper now, right where I want it, right amount of lift, and handles fine,
ride quality is fine. No complaints, on / off road. and still have 3/4" rake. Pretty happy with it this way .. for now
*attached pic is fully loaded with gear and family of 5. handled it well.
(Unloaded ride isn't harsh, totally acceptable)
'04 LX w/ AHC --> Swap to OE LC100 susp (OE Toyota TB, and rear springs, shocks) & Whiteline Sway bars Fr+Rr --> Lift w/ IM 30mm spacer + TB Crank
-AHC rode best until it started failing. Repairs didnt last long.
-OE LC100 susp was fine... for a while, no off roading.
-OE LC100 + spacer and TB crank, still stock ride w/ slight more lift, kept 3/4-1" rake.
-Then later swapped it all out for IM Nitro 2" kit w/ IM TB's + Reinforce bracket, 0-440 springs, Diff drop, SPC UCA, extended SB endlinks, etc.
This gave a nice lift, and rode great. Kept a 3/4 - 1" rake. No complaints. Performed well off road.
Added Fr metal bumper, Drawer, Fridge, etc. and still ok.
Next, Added Rr Metal bumper w/ Spare. Now the rear springs were too soft.
-Swapped to IM FCP shocks Fr+Rr. and rear spring swap 0-440 --> 440-880, and cranked TB accordingly.
Ride felt a bit more firm, but not harsh. More sporty and controlled. Happy with it.
Unfortunately it still sagged.
-Installed 30mm Rear IM coil spacer. Sit proper now, right where I want it, right amount of lift, and handles fine,
ride quality is fine. No complaints, on / off road. and still have 3/4" rake. Pretty happy with it this way .. for now
*attached pic is fully loaded with gear and family of 5. handled it well.
(Unloaded ride isn't harsh, totally acceptable)
- Thread starter
- #39
@Joe422 great rundown. You have quite a bit of weight with the platform, and is that a 5 gallon propane tank? I really like the look you've achieved. Are those 35x12.5's?
I'm headed to Ironman Friday. I'm really on the fence on the spring rate still. I'm thinking the 440+ though I know that will be too much initially. Still sounds like it will be too stiff with just the bumper and spare, since I won't have the drawers. But with the towing and gear I'm thinking I may wish I went stiffer if I go with the 0-440's. Think I may have to just try some guess and check since I'm probably right on the edge.
I'm headed to Ironman Friday. I'm really on the fence on the spring rate still. I'm thinking the 440+ though I know that will be too much initially. Still sounds like it will be too stiff with just the bumper and spare, since I won't have the drawers. But with the towing and gear I'm thinking I may wish I went stiffer if I go with the 0-440's. Think I may have to just try some guess and check since I'm probably right on the edge.
Thanks... No, that was a last minute camp trip and i just tied down a 20lb propane tank to swing arm deck. I picked up a smaller tank since then.
The tires are technically 33.5" but yea, 33's. (295/70 r17)
In my case, I needed the 440-880 and the 30mm spacer to get it right.
I also have Airlift bags in the rear, but i rarely use it. It's "just in case"
With the metal bumper and spare hanging off it, I'd recommend the 440-880 springs, especially since you tow too.
good luck!~
