nickw said:
Wayne, (and others),
What specific things should I look for on the BJ40 for Steve?
I am going to give everything a check.
But I am wondering if there is anything on the BJ40 that would need extra attention.
Cheers,
Nick
for me, i take it for a test drive. i can tell lots about a cruiser just by doing that. i highly doubt they will allow you to do a compression test unless you set it up before hand and pay to have it done. chances are they won't let you in the back to watch but they might.
put the front tires up against a curb and try and take off slowly in 3rd. it should stall, if it doesn't then the clutch is on it's way out.
hold your finger over the vacumm pipe to see if there is vacumm, it might take a couple seconds at idle to build up
it is alright to burn a bit of smoke when first starting but it should clear up fairly quick.
the 40s are bad for rust in the rear frame both just at the fixed spring end as well as the "triangle" where the shackel bolts on. (esp. the rust zones of Canada)
the tub should be straight and the joint between the tub and the firewall should be smooth. check for rust bottom of the windsheild frame and just below the kick panels, bottom of the bib is bad as well, any bubbling in these areas and you should walk away at this point.
the engine should be strong but a slug.
the H42 should shift with 2 fingers and slip into the gears smoothly, not catchy at all.
check for an coolant stains on the rad, sign of thining of the tanks or core, esp inside bottom just inside the rad shroud.
before you start the engine feel the tappet cover and side of the block for being warm to the touch, a sign it has been warmed up. when staqrting cold see how long it takes to idle smooth.
recommend a hot coolant pressure test to see if the head has any cracks.
this is all i can think of right now.
cheers