What to watch out for when buying a 4runner? (1 Viewer)

[billd45]

I'm looking to purchase a 1994 or newer 4runner & was wondering if you guys could give me pointers on things to look out for. I understand the basics like tires, body damage, massive oil leaks etc... but are there certain models, engines or years I should shy away from? How about options I would want? It's going to be a daily driver with no plans to modify and it will most likely see very little off-road use initially. Do you think it's feasible to find a reliable one for around 6k?
Thanks for your input & help.

 

[96 ToyRunner]

Get a 3rd gen with the 3.4 engine one of the best engines ever I got a 1996 with 311,000 on it also check out t4r.org

 

[billd45]

t4r.org

Cool, thanks for the reply. I didn't know about the t4r.org site.

 

[larsdennert]

Timing belt records would be good. Usually written on the belt cover. Needs swapping every 90-100K.

 

[Devils Paw 80]

I think you want a '96 or newer, as the 94 and 95's were the 2nd generation with the smaller engines with less power and no better MPG.
Starting in 2000 or 2001 the Runners dropped the elocker and added ATRAC, so newer would probably suit your purposes better. There's a 2001 here with 139K on the odo, new timing belt and water pump, for $6K.

 

[JT523]

If you go with a 90-95 I would seriously recommend you stay away from the 3.0 v6. My last one gave me so many headaches I can't even explain it and when you couple it with an automatic trans you may as well get a 22re and 5 speed because you will go just as fast and get better gas mileage.

I also agree with the others that a 96-02 is the way to go, and if you look hard enough you can find one with a rear factory electric locker. Mine has the locker and it's worth GOLD lol

 

[4loToys]

Check this link out: 3rd Gen 4Runner Buyer's Guide - Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum

T4R.org is definitely the best forum for these vehicles. I will be selling mine soon, but probably not a good choice if you aren't looking to off road much. You should be able to easily find a good one in your price range if you are patient.

 

[pillguy]

Definitely go with a 3rd gen 3.4L v6 model. The engines are bulletproof with basic care. I bought mine 8 years ago with 153K on the clock and now with 188k. Main engine work has been timing belt, water pump , plugs replacement. I replaced the alternator and lower pulley due to the water , mud crossings down south and replaced recently, the radiato, hoses, and transmission line hoses. All toyota parts.
Just get one with a clean car fax, and records. Good luck

 

[biker1007]

Check for rear brake backing plate looking wet, if so the axle seals are leaking which means seals and bearings. When the seals leak the grease is washed out of the bearings. $$$
general maintenance upkeep
valve cover oil leaks (cheap if doing yourself but labor intensive)
the water pump is behind the timing belt and should be done at the same time. I've done more timing belt jobs due to the pump leaking than belt being due. Belts tend to last longer than rated on the 3.4, pumps don't.

Mostly just look for same issues as buying any vehicle such as clean title, evidence of body repair from collision, etc. The rear axle seals are the only somewhat specific thing to look for on 4Runners.

 

[biker1007]

And 96-02 is strongly recommended. 2.7 needs less maintenance if you don't mind the lack of power compared to the 3.4. Automatics rarely have problems in these unless abused same as manual (if you can find one).

 

[Kleatus]

Second the 96 up 4Runner. Having owned 3 different 3.4 Tacomas (95,98 and 99) and having a '96 4Runner in the current fleet, I would add that the inner and outer tie rods and ball joints will typically need replacement somewhere starting at about 150-175k for a heavily used truck on stock rubber. Budget for new OEM parts on anything with a few miles. I have had to do inner and outer tie rods and ball joints on 2 of the Tacomas I've had (one at ~240, one at ~170). The 3.4 is bulletproof and a great engine. I've had one injector go out at about 165k on one truck, and had to replace a cracked flexplate on a 3.4/auto (the '98, only auto I've had) at ~175k, but that truck had been beat hard.

 

[Duane]

I think there was a used buyers guide at the top of the 3rd gen 4runner section.
The others have the highlights, 3.4L to me for the extra power but timing belts and water pumps need replacing together as to whichever fails first. Non interference engine so a broken belt leaves you stranded but doesn't break the engine. Limiteds usually have the rear e locker and was an option so can be found on some SR5's. Radiators have leaked, aka the strawberry milkshake. Alternators and starters will need a rebuild after a long while. I had a 2.7 inline 4, bullet proof, replaced an exhaust manifold, timing chain but lower power. Better range off road than my 3.4's. 99's sat the highest and 2000's were lowered say 2 inches. 99 and up have console cup holders as the earlier 3rd gen were in the dash/launchers. OF NOTE.. - 25 or colder brake booster checks valves can stick, multiple pumps usually frees them up but not uncommon on cold mornings to have no brake boost first time using them. replace the check valve seems to fix it.
I need to clean the MAF sensor after a while as it will throw a code. Cheap and easy fix. A great little rig and quite capable. Won't generally handle what its rated for pulling though. Yes rear axle seals leak on higher milers and minimum use. Rear bumper extension corners all seem to rust through. seating can be a bit tight if you are a stocky person or quite tall. A really solid and reliable vehicle choice and won't break the bank for gas, but not a 30 mpg vehicle by any means. 1 other weak point is that front rotors are prone to warping under heavy braking so check to see that light and hard braking doesn't produce a shudder or you will be buying a new set. i think you can put 32 inch rubber under them without a lift or rubbing. can use other 6 bolt toyota rims from tacos, sequoia, tundra, fj etc. aftermarket front bumpers available with rear options pretty minimal. 96-00 had auto and manual trannys too. 01-02 just autos.
Yes find one thats been looked after and not crashed and you'll love it!

 

[mexellent]

The advice that others have offered has been pretty good so far. Definitely stick to the 3rd gen (96-02) and while you're looking go ahead and try to get one with an e-locker. You may change your mind and wish you would have gone to the extra effort and gotten one when you had the chance.

Also, another thing that I did not see that I wish to add is a word of caution. Like others have said, these little trucks are tough as nails. As a result, they become VERY neglected. If you get a neglected one, you'll have to catch up on ALL the maintenance and it will be VERY expensive.

Here is what I have done to my 1997 so far:
-new outer tie rods
-new inner tie rods
-new lower ball joints
-new upper ball joints
-new steering rack bushings
-new steering rack and power steering pump
-new starter
-new fan clutch
-new fuel filter
-new spark plugs
-new wires
-new seats
-new tires

It was my fault. I should have bought a better example in the beginning. I still need to do much more stuff.

Also, I am running the 31.5" tires on mine on stock rims and in full flex and full lock there is rubbing.