What are guys on here doing? Repainting, wrapping or something else?
What to do with clear coat peeling from hood? (1 Viewer)
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How much did you pay for a full paint job and what part of the country are you in?
I'm in Northern Virginia (expensive market). It was tough to find shops that were interested in doing it. Estimates ranged from 4k (Maaco) to as high as 16k (doors off, glass out). Collision shops flat out told me they don't do re-paints, only insurance collision work. The average Estimate from decent paint shops was 10k.
In addition, most shops around here are a month or two out scheduling. There's no shortage of demand. The couple shops that gave me an actual written estimate were saying 90-100 hours in labor. And my truck is zero rust, no accident, couple minor door dings.
A couple shops didn't even have time to do estimate for me, just said their full paint jobs start at 10k.
I ended up getting a high end paint job but at much lower cost as I did a lot of the prep, disassembly and reassembly myself and basically lucked out (long story). There are good paint guys out there at reasonable costs but it takes some work to find them sometimes!
In addition, most shops around here are a month or two out scheduling. There's no shortage of demand. The couple shops that gave me an actual written estimate were saying 90-100 hours in labor. And my truck is zero rust, no accident, couple minor door dings.
A couple shops didn't even have time to do estimate for me, just said their full paint jobs start at 10k.
I ended up getting a high end paint job but at much lower cost as I did a lot of the prep, disassembly and reassembly myself and basically lucked out (long story). There are good paint guys out there at reasonable costs but it takes some work to find them sometimes!
We were quoted $1,700 to repaint a hood on a 2003 100 series a couple of years ago. Rust free, dent free hood, lots of chips (300k miles worth). This was a high quality shop that we trust and use for customers. You can always get cheaper work done, if it’s not a show car you don’t NEED the best bodyshop in town to do it.
Money to spend? Repaint and PPF the hood, fenders, doors, rear quarters of the car so the rest of the clear doesn't go right away. It won't be far behind the hood...
Budget minded? Maybe attempt to blend it with new clear. You'll still have a clear line of the old/new, but you can end up with a uniform glossy surface which would be a big improvement from 20 feet. The owner of my old 99 did exactly this and I think it turned out well enough. Look up OVR magazine and their 100 build (that's my old car).
My current 06 had pretty awesome paint when I bought it in 2020. I had it professionally paint corrected and then PPF'd. I take it to a handfull of shows per year for ADGU and it actually ends up being a bit of a distraction from selling storage systems. "You guys do drawers? Cool. WHOA LOOK AT THAT PAINT!!! HOW DID YOU DO THAT?!" PPF on decent paint goes a long ways.
Budget minded? Maybe attempt to blend it with new clear. You'll still have a clear line of the old/new, but you can end up with a uniform glossy surface which would be a big improvement from 20 feet. The owner of my old 99 did exactly this and I think it turned out well enough. Look up OVR magazine and their 100 build (that's my old car).
My current 06 had pretty awesome paint when I bought it in 2020. I had it professionally paint corrected and then PPF'd. I take it to a handfull of shows per year for ADGU and it actually ends up being a bit of a distraction from selling storage systems. "You guys do drawers? Cool. WHOA LOOK AT THAT PAINT!!! HOW DID YOU DO THAT?!" PPF on decent paint goes a long ways.
dubdub20003
SILVER Star
Little late… but just do a black strip in wrap, like they do to cut glare. It is wider than the kits they sell, but easy solution and will work with front bumper. Maybe paint out the chrome on grill.
There are several ways you could approach this. First, get some cutting compound and see if you can buff out the center region where the clear has already come off and see if the paint comes back to the original color. If so, you can proceed with removing what's left of the old clearcoat wetsanding with 1000 grit or finer. Sand the old clear coat outward in toward the open section in the middle where the clear has already come off. Avoid sanding that region, only sand up to the edge. As it thins, it will come off. Then buff the whole hood if it looks like the paint is in decent shape. If good, you can either wax it or have another clear coat applied. Speak with a few shops, clear is almost always applied within 1 hour or so +/- after spraying the color coat. They may have differing opinions about new clear over old paint for adhesion.
Second option, prep and re-paint the whole hood. My 2000 came off lease in 2003 from SoCal near the beach and had a few nasty spots etched thru the paint down to primer from acidic sea bird poop in huge splotches. I had the hood and tailgate professionally re-painted 15 years ago for $1100 at a reputable shop. Looked great for 8 to 10 years then the clear started to fail. I started this morning on re-painting it myself. I would consider my skills at somewhat intermediate amateur level. It looks like the shop applied the base coat over bare metal. I sanded it back to bare metal wherever the paint would come off easily and left a good feathered edge into solid paint. The grey is well adhered clear coat. So far I have the bare spots sprayed with a heavy wet coat of etching primer and will spray the whole hood in sanding primer tomorrow. Then block sand and deal with spot filling numerous rock chips and spot primer again. Then shoot the whole hood with sealer, let it dry for a day, then shoot single stage color coat urethane enamel with hardener, cut and buff after it dries and call it good with no clear coat. Clear coat is good for maybe 5 years in New Mexico unless garaged all the time and only driven at night.
I enjoy doing body and paint work as a hobby. You could probably do yours starting from scratch for about $500-600. $160 for a Harbor Freight compressor, $30-40 for a decent spray gun, $80 for a random orbital sander, $50-75 for an assortment of sandpaper, $150-200 for primer and paint. Another $25 ea. for OE windshield washer nozzles which will probably break when you try to remove them. Clearcoat optional. If you don't like the results, you can always sand it down and do it over again. Don't use rattle can products on a project this big, get hiqh quality primer and paint from an automotive paint supply shop. I use Napa here and am pleased with the quality of their products and the guys at the counter are very helpful providing tips and do's and don'ts and material selections. Epoxy primers are great but can take a little longer to cure and some have issues with adhesion of subsequent layers of primer and base coat.
I put 6" wide aluminum roof flashing on the tops of the fenders to keep the sander off of them, doubles as masking.
Second option, prep and re-paint the whole hood. My 2000 came off lease in 2003 from SoCal near the beach and had a few nasty spots etched thru the paint down to primer from acidic sea bird poop in huge splotches. I had the hood and tailgate professionally re-painted 15 years ago for $1100 at a reputable shop. Looked great for 8 to 10 years then the clear started to fail. I started this morning on re-painting it myself. I would consider my skills at somewhat intermediate amateur level. It looks like the shop applied the base coat over bare metal. I sanded it back to bare metal wherever the paint would come off easily and left a good feathered edge into solid paint. The grey is well adhered clear coat. So far I have the bare spots sprayed with a heavy wet coat of etching primer and will spray the whole hood in sanding primer tomorrow. Then block sand and deal with spot filling numerous rock chips and spot primer again. Then shoot the whole hood with sealer, let it dry for a day, then shoot single stage color coat urethane enamel with hardener, cut and buff after it dries and call it good with no clear coat. Clear coat is good for maybe 5 years in New Mexico unless garaged all the time and only driven at night.
I enjoy doing body and paint work as a hobby. You could probably do yours starting from scratch for about $500-600. $160 for a Harbor Freight compressor, $30-40 for a decent spray gun, $80 for a random orbital sander, $50-75 for an assortment of sandpaper, $150-200 for primer and paint. Another $25 ea. for OE windshield washer nozzles which will probably break when you try to remove them. Clearcoat optional. If you don't like the results, you can always sand it down and do it over again. Don't use rattle can products on a project this big, get hiqh quality primer and paint from an automotive paint supply shop. I use Napa here and am pleased with the quality of their products and the guys at the counter are very helpful providing tips and do's and don'ts and material selections. Epoxy primers are great but can take a little longer to cure and some have issues with adhesion of subsequent layers of primer and base coat.
I put 6" wide aluminum roof flashing on the tops of the fenders to keep the sander off of them, doubles as masking.
I'm leaving mine be. Going for that rat rod look.
FamilyCamper
SILVER Star
Check out @Dirt J s build thread. I did mine outside under an awning w a tarp to have a makeshift booth and it turned out pretty well. Should have practiced more w the spray pattern but overall happy. If you want professional quality then get it done otherwise this is a good option. Probably cost me around $400 for all materials used
- Thread starter
- #11
Damn that looks good. My hood is jealous. lol.
I wished I had painted mine sooner. It's really not as scary or complicated as I thought to achieve a decent finish. I attempted a step-by-step in my thread.. Good enough for me for a 20+ y/o trail/hunting/DD.
Before:
After:
Before:
After:
FamilyCamper
SILVER Star
Yeah its a good paint and you can see you did a better job on your application so you get a little more reflection. Not nearly the same as factory but its looks wayyyy better than the peeling.
Day 2: primer and guide coat
Day 3: blocked and seal coat (reflection of clouds). I kinda like the matte finish, think I'll keep it that way for awhile until the weather cools off enough to shoot the final color coat.
Day 3: blocked and seal coat (reflection of clouds). I kinda like the matte finish, think I'll keep it that way for awhile until the weather cools off enough to shoot the final color coat.
FamilyCamper
SILVER Star
Looks great!
This nice looking TLC was wrapped because the owner couldn't see plopping down $6K for a basic repaint, not even show quality according to him. His solution was to get it wrapped for about a third of the basic repaint. Hood was done in a 'graphite weave' and everything else in the factory green. Perfect? No. Serviceable? Yes.
Whoa, what about the resale value?
You previously said that you would "walk away entirely" from any 100 that didn't have the paint and bodywork done correctly by a professional. You said the owners misplaced enthusiasm to do anything less than a professional job was indicative of a lack of knowledge and or money and that would make them a bad owner who you would not buy from even if the truck was "a great vehicle otherwise". You said luxury SUV buyers are not into "well enough", they expect "the level of detail and work" commensurate with a properly done repair.
You also said most of the 100 buying audience was "certainly not" into buying "hacked-up" vehicles; only poor people "especially in lower income regions" would be into that. So do most 100 buyers want paint that looks ok "from 20 feet"? Or would they walk away like you would?
"you're just going to flat out lose your audience when you go to sell. You'll have the majority of the market turn away immediately once they see it." your exact words, speaking about bodywork and paint.
I think I stand by most all that, perhaps with a less harsh tone of privilege, lol.
It's slightly nuanced.
As a buyer, seeing a rattle-canned hood isn't helping anything. There are lots of clean 100's out there and a rattle-can hood will be a reason people pass on it and grab the next one listed on autotrader.
Same thing applies to a 100 with Cardone CV axles, screws in the windshield trim, "BOSS" or "DUAL" stereos, etc... It all just degrades buyer confidence.
For the sake of resale value, paint it properly.
I think most 100 buyers right now want either a very cheap deal or they want a very nice starting point. As a potential seller, you would want to target the "very nice starting point" crowd.
Hopefully that's not too offensive a stance, haha.
