Picked up a high mileage 100 series about a month ago, and going through doing maintenance and replacing all rubber hoses. Thought you may enjoy seeing the inside of the dirty side of the engine (pcv side). 350k and the engine vin tag matches the frame.
What the inside of a 350,000 engine looks like.
- Thread starter JimSoCal
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awesomeissquid
SILVER Star
Interesting the amount of varnish. Any records of the engine getting hot or extended oil changes?
I would be super interested to hear the results if you check the valve clearances or do a compression / leak down test.
I would be super interested to hear the results if you check the valve clearances or do a compression / leak down test.
not too bad for the mileage. no signs of sludge. how much cleaner does the other side look? just curious
- Thread starter
- #4
I was impressed with the lack of varnish and build up for 350k, but perhaps others have cleaner examples? Clean side is a bit cleaner, similar golden color. Already have that side finished, otherwise I would have taken another photo.
I will check the valve clearance, but unless it is grossly tight, I don't see the benefit of adjustment, as it is a shim-under-bucket design, you have to pull the cams.
Records show approx 5k intervals. I am going to reduce that interval a bit to try to clean up the bit of varnish / sludge, but I am very happy to see the current condition.
I will also do a compression test before I put everything back together, but I expect good numbers, it ran very good, and had good hot oil pressure.
I have another 2UZ-FE (first generation Tundra) that had 160k when I did the valve cover gaskets & spark plug tube seals, and it did have a bit less varnish, but that is to be expected at 200k fewer miles.
I will check the valve clearance, but unless it is grossly tight, I don't see the benefit of adjustment, as it is a shim-under-bucket design, you have to pull the cams.
Records show approx 5k intervals. I am going to reduce that interval a bit to try to clean up the bit of varnish / sludge, but I am very happy to see the current condition.
I will also do a compression test before I put everything back together, but I expect good numbers, it ran very good, and had good hot oil pressure.
I have another 2UZ-FE (first generation Tundra) that had 160k when I did the valve cover gaskets & spark plug tube seals, and it did have a bit less varnish, but that is to be expected at 200k fewer miles.
awesomeissquid
SILVER Star
Very interesting. Thanks for sharing! I honestly don't know too much about varnish, but I can share these two shots from a 280k mile engine. From my research the driver side rear of the engine typically runs a bit hotter since there are more components around that side of the engine bay.
- Thread starter
- #6
That is exceptionally clean. What oil change intervals were you using?
awesomeissquid
SILVER Star
Mostly 10k mile intervals.
Synthetic or conventional @awesomeissquid and @JimSoCal ?
- Thread starter
- #9
@FlammableFishie As this is new to me, I am going to assume based on some records bulk oil from quick lube.
awesomeissquid
SILVER Star
Records from before I bought mine are a mixed bag, some call out Castrol GTX, but others don't specify (for the price it must have been bulk oil). I switched over to Mobil 1 synthetic for the last two changes.
A recent Youtube video by "the Car Care Nut" mentioned that Toyota engines should adhere to oil change every 6 months or 5k miles even if Mobile 1 synthetic is used. Is that recommended for the 4.7L also or overkill? Can this be stretched if mainly driving highway miles?
Overkill. Look at threads regarding oil changes where people have sent in samples to Blackstone Labs. Some are advised upwards of 7k to, I think, 9k intervals.
for newer generation engines esp with GDI 5k is recommended.
JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
Yep, blackstone recommended I go up to 7k mile intervals with *conventional oil*, from the 5k I had been previously doing.
GTV
SILVER Star
I've been going 10k based on Blackstone's recommendations.
I'm doing 7K intervals with Mobil1 but Blackstone said to go to 10K.
I need to find a mechanic like him in my area. Probably not cheap but you know it’ll be done right with the right parts.
I always change my oil based on oil level and color. I stopped worrying about intervals, I feel like everybody's opinion is always different when it comes to OC's. I just go what I think is best for my car and I. Everyone's car wears & tears differently based on driving conditions.
Also any oil that says SN PLUS on the API donut is a win for me- The mobil 1 refinery in USA is not the same in Germany, therefore I don't believe it's good oil as people say it is. Mobil 1 is not even rated SN PLUS
I've seen what people believe is "cheap" oil rated SN PLUS. AmazonsBasics Full Syn oil beat Mobil 1 on project farm youtube video
Also any oil that says SN PLUS on the API donut is a win for me- The mobil 1 refinery in USA is not the same in Germany, therefore I don't believe it's good oil as people say it is. Mobil 1 is not even rated SN PLUS
I've seen what people believe is "cheap" oil rated SN PLUS. AmazonsBasics Full Syn oil beat Mobil 1 on project farm youtube video
I'm at the point where this whole oil debate is so convoluted that I went back to every 5k. The oil might be great, but do you really trust a filter for 10k? Cheap insurance all the way.
