What Size Jack Stands do I really Need for a GX? (1 Viewer)

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Chandler, AZ
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Stupid question. I need to install a lift this week. I am an idiot as many of you know and barely mechanically... adequate. I see I'll have to lift all four tires off the ground to disengage the KDSS system so I need 4 jack stands. Anyone have any advice on size? With the curb weight just above 5K lb's 3-ton's should be safe enough but it seems like the 6 tons are generally taller. Not sure if that's an issue with the small lift I'm going with. Would love some advice from you guys who turn a wrench often. Thx.
 
I only have a 1.5 ton racing jack and 3 ton aluminum racing jack stands from Harbor Freight and had no issues getting the job done.

DB7913F7-6BC7-4C2C-962A-10C21BCAF64C.jpeg
 
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3 ton stands will be fine, i have a set of truck stands that i like because they are taller then the regular height stands, something worth while to consider when buying a set
 
When I'm under my rig with it up in the air, I'm usually cranking on stuff, usually with a 3-foot iron pipe for leverage to break stuff loose. Or just break stuff... So I get nervous with 5,500 lbs of truck sitting on wobbly stands with a small footprint. So I have a 2 pairs of 12-ton stands, which are over 12" square at the base, and 18" tall at the shortest, so there isn't a lot of extension going on. Overkill is good when safety is involved... I'm in Gilbert, and like @forgotten1, hit me up if you need anything.
 
Oh, and in addition to the 4 stands under the frame rails, when working on the solid rear axle it's sometimes helpful to have at least one other jack stand to support the side of the axle your NOT trying to remove a spring from. You could also use another jack, but I have some old, smaller jack stands that are handy for supporting axles to force the droop to the side you're trying to remove the spring from...
 
If you haven’t bought stands yet, I’d get two sets of 6 tons… one for supporting the truck and the other for supporting the rear axle or what ever else you might be working on.

Just a heads up, I don’t think you need to have the vehicle completely off the ground to disengage the kdss system.. I’ve done mine several times now by disengaging while the vehicle is on the ground, then jacking up which ever end I’m working on then closing the system back up when the vehicle is on the ground. No issues doing it this way.
 
6 tons it is. I might go bigger in the lift if I get bumpers some day. You guys are awesome. We’re going to install Wednesday during the day and Id love a hand from someone who’s done it on a prado if either of you local guys want to stop by. My buddy Paul who features in a lot of my vids will be there but niether of us has done an adjustable pan hard bar or changed airbags to springs which is part of my install. If either of you guys are free after lunch Wednesday and could come take a look pm me and I’ll give you my info. We’ll probably do the front first since that’s pretty easy.
 
A few other pointers: disconnect the sway bars at the piston/static control arm… never disconnect at the lower control arms/rear axle… you’ll wrestle all day trying to get them reconnected if you do. Rule of thumb on adjustable panhards is increase 1/16” for every inch of lift.. so start with 3/16 increase and then go from there. If you haven’t already, buy this -

IRWIN VISE-GRIP Original Locking Pliers/Sheet Metal Tool, 8-Inch (23) Amazon product ASIN B0000TFGFU
It’ll allow you to gently bend the metal on the cab in front wheel wells to get the upper control arm bolts out.
 
Sorry, won’t be able to help out during the week. Forewarning, the front is the harder end to do, so I’d tackle that first if I were you. Granted I didn’t have factory airbags, but I did add the Firestone Coil-Rite airbag kit which involves cutting the bump stops and routing air lines.
 
Sorry, won’t be able to help out during the week. Forewarning, the front is the harder end to do, so I’d tackle that first if I were you. Granted I didn’t have factory airbags, but I did add the Firestone Coil-Rite airbag kit which involves cutting the bump stops and routing air lines.
No worries. Got to get it done this week as we're heading to Kofa at the end of the month. I was thinking the front would be pretty easy since I've got prebuilt coil overs and the back needs the pan hard replaced and tuned along with all the airbag change over stuff but I don't know what the **** I'm doing so it should be fun either way. Well, interesting anyway.
 
I have these locking 6-ton jack stands and really like them:
Amazon product ASIN B00026Z3DQ
I bought a set of 4 so the entire GX can be off the ground (when undercoating). The locking pin is a good safety feature, as there is virtually no way for the riser to move position once it is locked. On stands without the lock, it's possible to have the riser not quite seat in the stand base and then come loose (and drop) under a small amount of load. I also like that you can pick it up by the riser and move the stand when they are locked (with a normal stand you'd just pull the riser out of the base).
 
Sorry, won’t be able to help out during the week. Forewarning, the front is the harder end to do, so I’d tackle that first if I were you. Granted I didn’t have factory airbags, but I did add the Firestone Coil-Rite airbag kit which involves cutting the bump stops and routing air lines.
I’ve been debating the Firestone bags inside my rear coils. Do you mind telling me your set up? What lift springs, and added weight do you have? How much psi do you run on a normal basis (and what height increase does that give you) and what is the max lift you can attain from pumping them up?
I’m trying to decide between the 2.5” spring with the bags to bring me to 3” or just get the 3” springs and bags because I am going to be adding some weight later.
 
I’ve been debating the Firestone bags inside my rear coils. Do you mind telling me your set up? What lift springs, and added weight do you have? How much psi do you run on a normal basis (and what height increase does that give you) and what is the max lift you can attain from pumping them up?
I’m trying to decide between the 2.5” spring with the bags to bring me to 3” or just get the 3” springs and bags because I am going to be adding some weight later.
I'm running the Dobinson IMS kit. Front springs are C59-350 which are stated as a 2" lift with stock weight. Rear springs are the C59-325, stated as 1.75" lift with stock weight. Aside from the roof rack, which I really wouldn't consider additional weight, I don't have any other weight adds. Since I'm using my GX as a daily, I didn't want heavier weight springs and a harsher ride full time.

I have a Turtleback Expedition offroad trailer on order that'll be ready sometime in April, so I added the Firestone bags to assist with offsetting any sag in the rear with the added weight of the trailer. The inflation range of the bags is 5PSI - 35PSI, so I'm hopeful that I can get the GX sitting level with the trailer hooked up. So far I like them and the ease of installation while I was already doing the lift was an added bonus. I just don't have real world experience with them yet as I don't have the trailer yet. Either way you decide to go, for about $100 for the kit (Firestone Coil-Rite p/n 4135), I'd recommend just throwing the bags in there to have in case you need to get some added lift. Installing them after the fact looks to be a PITA.
 
I'm running the Dobinson IMS kit. Front springs are C59-350 which are stated as a 2" lift with stock weight. Rear springs are the C59-325, stated as 1.75" lift with stock weight. Aside from the roof rack, which I really wouldn't consider additional weight, I don't have any other weight adds. Since I'm using my GX as a daily, I didn't want heavier weight springs and a harsher ride full time.

I have a Turtleback Expedition offroad trailer on order that'll be ready sometime in April, so I added the Firestone bags to assist with offsetting any sag in the rear with the added weight of the trailer. The inflation range of the bags is 5PSI - 35PSI, so I'm hopeful that I can get the GX sitting level with the trailer hooked up. So far I like them and the ease of installation while I was already doing the lift was an added bonus. I just don't have real world experience with them yet as I don't have the trailer yet. Either way you decide to go, for about $100 for the kit (Firestone Coil-Rite p/n 4135), I'd recommend just throwing the bags in there to have in case you need to get some added lift. Installing them after the fact looks to be a PITA.
Here’s a picture of where I mounted the valves to inflate the bags. Relatively hidden but easy to access from under the vehicle.

126E4E96-CADB-4E27-869F-BD3EAD85765D.jpeg
 
6 tons it is. I might go bigger in the lift if I get bumpers some day.
Definitely need 6 tons. My world of wrenching has not been on lifted vehicles, went to begin the install on my lift last night and I was not able to jack the GX up while allowing full droop on the wheels and tires with my 3 ton jack stands. It was not even something that had crossed my mind.
This is obviously old for you, but i'm more just reassuring 6 ton is the way to go.

I got it situated with my 3 ton with a sheet of mdf I had laying around, but I still was not able to get high enough once I started fitting the new wheels and tires (34 inch wheel vs stock 30 or 31?).

if you dont need full droop, 3 tons will work just fine using the rear axle to place the jack stands.
if you need full droop, 6 ton placed at the frame works 10x better.
 
And just make sure they are tall enough, as mentioned above.
It's fine if you're only putting the jack stands under the axles, but if you're placing them under the body mounts, then you have to have much longer ones.
 

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