Can anyone identify this part? Its leaking and I need to replace it but I'm having a hard time finding the part number on a diagram.
What is this A/C part?
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Its an aftermarket T fitting to flush out your cooling system with a garden hose. Its hard to see where its going but I assume its to the heater core because your hand is in the way.
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I bought this rig from texas so that makes more sense, I couldn't figure out what it was. Thanks for the info.
almost every rig on the road in the 70's had 1 of those in it.
flush it out in the road and it all went down the storm drain.
it had an angled tube that went in place of the rad cap and the antiboil/water would shoot out 5'
kit came with the T, hose clamps, tube and a bottle of juice to run thru the system
flush it out in the road and it all went down the storm drain.
it had an angled tube that went in place of the rad cap and the antiboil/water would shoot out 5'
kit came with the T, hose clamps, tube and a bottle of juice to run thru the system
They make aluminum ones now, they're on eBay, but best to replace that entire hose and delete the potential leak spot. Not needed for flushing the system.
@3_puppies That is so true…. Each vehicle I had back in the 70’s did have one. Used it once..years later, it cracked
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I can argue with you on that. I've got one on all my engines. Especially the 12HT and 13BT. The heater cores are a bugger to flush
and maintain. If you close that off with a clamp on the inlet side after draining, and then pour down some flushing agent into
your partly drained core thru that opening it will facilitate cleaning out the crud in the heater core. Once the flushing agent has
been in there for a bit, I use a small adapter to my shop vac and blow the heater core out completely so it's actually empty, not
theoretically empty. Pour in a couple litres water, flush and force air out again. Then you can actually fill the heater core from that
point with a couple of litres of proper coolant mix. Unclamp and then fill the system after the rest is flushed. I've found that having that
open seems to ensure to allow air in, and when I open both the engine drain valve and radiator valve I know there is no vacuum holding old coolant inside the passages of the motor. Forcing air thru that fitting helps.
It is also the highest point on the coolant system and is perfect spot to verify no air in the system when full.
OP - I don't know what the truck being from Texas has to do with this, these are pretty popular everywhere. Its not an AC thing, just
a maintenance thing.
