What is the point of a thicker Hawse fairlead over 1.0” -Factor 55 site ??? (1 Viewer)

[LINUS]

Seriously- just so when I choose the difference between a normal 1.0” or go 1.5” off the Factor 5 site, those are the only 2 options.

Heck, I think my Hawse I been “great by” -in my 80 is mebbe a 3/4” plate - might even be 1/2”.
It’s whatever the Slee offset Hawse is, since I have a Warn M12K in a ARB bumper on a -80 series.

What is the point of thicker plate on your Hawse?

- Is this just silly or is there a real reason to jump from 1.0” to a 1.5” Hawse for a fairlead?

My bumper clearance isn’t an issue, so if a thicker fairlead is “smart money” - tell me how.
I’m just wondering if it’s a ‘spread the load & heat’ thing - or we’re talking a pure cosmetic type thing here.

Any synth rope winching experts here who can justify the 1.5” unit over a 1.0” ???

I’m open to learning, I want to run a Flatlink-E on this Tundra/Warn Zeon 10K/Demello bumper.

I own the generic Flatlink on my ~1/2”-5/8” offset Slee Hawse on my 80. It’s been great, but I get how putting the shoe/bell - whatever you locally call the “U” of a shackle - into a winch point, esp since I want to go to Bubba soft shackles so I can take recovery gear to my nautical junk.

I just don’t understand the need to go to a full 1.0” or 1.5” fairlead as Factor 55 has on their site.
-What’s the point of a 1.5” fairlead over a 1.0” one?
- off-camber pulls is all I can see initially, but no other clue.

Edumacate me fellas!! (Or is 1.5” a marketing thing?)

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

"The thicker aluminum bar results in a larger outer fillet radius for the synthetic rope to slide against. This results in less stress on the rope fibers during high angular pulls, increasing the life of your synthetic rope. The 1.0 and 1.5 fairleads are the industry’s first Hawse fairleads compatible with larger ½ inch diameter rope tube thimbles."

 

[LINUS]

So there really is a function here & it’s not just “look cool” -type of thing?

Is it “worth it” to go to 1.5” thick with one, or is 1.0” even more than plenty since the early ones like mine are 1/2” (5/8” at the very most)?

IDK but I am just real surprised they have nearly tripled in thickness over what the norm was even just 5-8yrs ago.

I doubt Factor 55 is a company doing/selling things that are just “bro-truck cool”, but that triple-thickness just had me wondering.


::::bottom line - there is merit in really going whole hog for the 1.5” fairlead then?::::

 

[Ted44]

The larger radius of the thicker fairlead is less stress on your line. Ideally, a synthetic line should not be bent to a radius less than 3x its diameter to maintain its full capacity. Also the larger surface area should reduce the concentration of heat due to friction. Heat is anathema to a synthetic winch line.

 

[toyofan]

@LINUS do you mind sharing some pics of you hawse on your ARB ?

I want to put one on mine, but was wondering about all the support for the rollers. Do you have interference with that support ?
Thanks

 

[cruiserpilot]

TT & Ted make sense to me. I’m also not the kind to chase ‘newer is better’, but the logic of the high angle pull concern would be enough for me.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

For a fun fact, if you find a steel hawse fairlead, those are for use with wire ropes, not synthetic.

 

[NateMob]

For a fun fact, if you find a steel hawse fairlead, those are for use with wire ropes, not synthetic.

Warn equips some of their winches with both synthetic line and a steel hawse. I also use a steel hawse/synthetic line with lots of use and no ill effects.

 

[LINUS]

@LINUS do you mind sharing some pics of you hawse on your ARB ?

I want to put one on mine, but was wondering about all the support for the rollers. Do you have interference with that support ?
Thanks

Just saw your post, my ARB has a Slee offset one:

 

[LINUS]

@toyofan - I just read your q & I cut the upper roller fairlead support off.

Sh!tty pic, (one I just had in my media album) - but there’s just a couple tabs that locate it behind all the welds, and I just feathered back the powdercoat & bomb-can painted with a semi-gloss black.

If you need a better pic of the holes, I left mine as I didn’t care to fill & primer the welds prior to paint.

 

[crikeymike]

A lot of newer style ARB bumpers have a recessed area where the roller fairlead would fit into, and I read the details of a hawse fairlead the other day (can't remember what brand) but it was thicker so that it would protrude the correct distance away from the recessed bumper so that the winch line couldn't hit the edges of the ARB bumper. See attached.

The older style bumpers, like the ARB 80 series, had the fairlead bolt right to the face, which is why your fairlead is working just fine.