What is the most expensive repair you've had on your 200 / LX570? (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I've had a few fairly big repairs on my 2010 LX. The biggest repair was the transfer case input seal and transmission output seal for $2400. I also had the valley plate leak and that was about $1200. The radiator went out as well and that repair was $1000. All repairs were done at the dealer and luckily covered by the warranty.

what symptoms were you having with tranny?
 
You would if you had a 16 or newer and wanted your Climate control system to work.

I still would not. Warranty, OR


If I had a 16 OOW, I would use the Tesla screen. The climate control is operational. This swap is done routinely in the GCC states, even without a faulty OEM unit.

Heck I may buy a 16, take the head unit and screen out, sell for $10K and have a 16 200 for $40K. Lol.
 
2008 LX owner, purchased 6 years ago with 40K, now at 102K miles and have not experienced a single failure. Just replaced the original brake rotors last month @ 100K with new OEMs and refreshed the pads but thats it. It really has been an amazing vehicle so far.
 
2008 LX owner, purchased 6 years ago with 40K, now at 102K miles and have not experienced a single failure. Just replaced the original brake rotors last month @ 100K with new OEMs and refreshed the pads but thats it. It really has been an amazing vehicle so far.

Where did you buy the rotors and pads? Need to do the same
 
I was just quoted 2k+(1k per side plus installation) to replace my front headlights. So, I just drive during the day. HA.
 
I was just quoted 2k+(1k per side plus installation) to replace my front headlights. So, I just drive during the day. HA.

Yeah the headlights are ridiculously expensive. I believe it has to do with AFS (light adjusts with steering wheel) but it’s still egregious as you can get Porsche headlights for less.

My 2013 housings had some UV damage from its time living in the south. Since I knew how costly replacement lights would be, I wasted no time in having them sanded and covered with PPF.
 
what symptoms were you having with tranny?

The only symptom was oil on the transfer case. The dealer actually found a leak when I brought it in for an oil change. Below is a link to a thread I started on the issue. The picture makes it look worse than it actually was. I never found any oil on the garage floor.

 
I just got a new transmission after several repairs to the radiator and the AC system. Think it all has to do with a three year old fender bender, but the tranny was $7k. Not ideal, but at 125k miles I hope to get a lot more miles out of it.
 
I've begun my first 200 build and had someone ask me today what the most expensive repairs are on the 200 series. I really didn't have a lot of information to go on, as I'm new to the 200 scene. So I figured I'd get some input from the people that know.

What's your most expensive repair? How much was it? Tell me more.
What is your goal with this exercise? If you are looking for the cost to repair any component regardless of root cause of failure or failure mode (negligence, accident, poor maintenance, wear and tear, etc.), you can basically look at retail parts prices plus labor cost (book rate x shop hourly labor rate). If you're looking for components that regularly fail due to manufacturing issues or defects, you're likely to end up with a very short list: radiator cracking, valley plate leaks.
 
Actually the head unit would rival engine tranny replacement. The unit is $8000 and that does not include the $3500 LCD screen.

I had the $3500 display replaced under warranty on my 2016. The clock wasn't displaying the time correctly under the screen and it's all one unit, so the entire screen had to be replaced. With labor I'm sure it would have been close to $4000.
 
What is your goal with this exercise? If you are looking for the cost to repair any component regardless of root cause of failure or failure mode (negligence, accident, poor maintenance, wear and tear, etc.), you can basically look at retail parts prices plus labor cost (book rate x shop hourly labor rate). If you're looking for components that regularly fail due to manufacturing issues or defects, you're likely to end up with a very short list: radiator cracking, valley plate leaks.
No doubt, look at parts & labor and I've got an idea for sure. But considering other peoples experiences gives a little bit of an inclination of failures that others might see. All said, the MUD 200 crowd is relatively small given the number of 200 series that exist. If that small subset of owners experiences X number of occurrences of something occurring it gives a little bit of an idea of what may go wrong with others. It's also just good information to be able to pass on to others. I'm just getting into the build of my 1st 200 series and a customer came in and was in awe. He asked some generic questions and I just really didn't have answers. So, with the information here, it at least gives me the ability to have a conversation of the possibilities. Maybe it's a futile attempt at best, but still worth the time. I think others are benefitting from the thread too.
 
Bottom line: the 200 series will eventually cost more to keep running in the long run when stuff breaks out of warranty than any other land cruiser in history.
As the years go by, a 20 year old 200 series will be a scary proposition as a high mileage used car purchase.
 
Bottom line: the 200 series will eventually cost more to keep running in the long run when stuff breaks out of warranty than any other land cruiser in history.
As the years go by, a 20 year old 200 series will be a scary proposition as a high mileage used car purchase.
That’s true of any newer generation of vehicles.
It also works the other way. When OEM parts dry up then simple things become unobtainium. See 60/80 series.
 
Last edited:
I have 2016 that need a new rack and pinion. Happily I have extended warranty so it should cost me nothing. I will find out total bill October 9th when part arrives and I drop it off for the install. I guessing over 3000+. I imagine the most expensive thing would be to replace engine or transmission.
How did you know that it was broken?
 
Leaking fluid from under dust boot and fluid is on dust boot. I have video from tech and I looked at it myself when I got it home. I pulled out simple green and complete cleaned the area. When I take it back in October to be replaced I will check and see if new fluid has appeared. If not and tech also confirms that sees no new fluid likely not have repair done. But if still leaking then extended warranty will cover the cost of repair. The passenger boot is clean of any fluids just driver side. I am not first owner it was 2 year lease.
 
Where did you buy the rotors and pads? Need to do the same

Due to time, I just purchased OEM rotors from my local Lexus Dealer...Figured if the originals lasted this long why not.
 
Where did you buy the rotors and pads? Need to do the same

Due to time, I just purchased OEM rotors from my local Lexus Dealer...Figured if the originals lasted this long why not.

I just ordered a full set of rotors and pads from Deluca Toyota in Florida. It came out to under $400 for everything, which is likely around what I would have paid for third-party parts.

I'm local so I'm picking them up, but looks like they have free shipping over $75 right now.
 
2016 LX570 right control arm/trail arm. It went in for a alignment because I got new tires. Somehow the tech found it to be bent and unable to align the rig. Quoted $1300 parts and labor. Pissed me of because I think someone did not know how to use a lift and damage it. Vehicle has high clearance and never seen gravel. Anyways I laugh at the service writer and call them out on the bull**** charge. Parts was about $335. Require removal of two bolts and reinstall. Had my buddy order it through his shop and did it myself.

Word of advised to photo your rig before taking in for any service.
 
I got 165k. 2009. It's been well maintained. No issues so far. I probably put in $600 for fresh fluids, plugs, basic stuff ect. Bought it 1.5 years ago ish second owner. I did spend $1200 on a roof rack, $265 in materials to build out the back drawer system and bed, $700 for the awning, $400 for the tent that clips onto the awning, $150 the queen sized bed, $100 for the memory foam topper, $15 for the foot mat before you enter the tent, $3000 for the suspension up grade, about $1200 for tires, oh god. There is more money spent. When I spell it out... ehhhhh

I've owned a few vehicles. Yes things wear on any high mileage older vehicle. But bang for the the buck the LC wins. Yes things will break. Normal maintenance will prevent most major breakdowns. Problem is most folks are plug and play. Buy car drive car make car payment. Warranty? People do not keep a vehicle for 5 years. Turn and burn. Used to the car payment in the budget. So if something goes wrong they freak out.

Do not buy a large SUV if the oil change breaks the bank. That is stupid. When things break it will cost money. If you can't afford the maintenance do not purchase one and don't complain when you get a massive bill from the mechanic and then say this ride sinks. The LC will run well for many miles. It's not maintenance free!
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom