Hi Jim
In your first post you said you were going "full manual" for your preheat:
.... im going FULL manual
(no timer , no glow light, no factory box at all) , just a momentary switch and a relay...
You've made this decision (apparently) and for this you need 23V plugs (to replace the 14V plugs that should be in there now for that original superglow setup).
Yes. All that superglow stuff needs to go (or at least be disconnected) if you intend to go ahead with your "simple full-manual preheat" (aka "Wilson Switch preheat") plan.
With "Wilson Switch preheat", your switch controls the relay and the relay simply sends 24V from your battery to your glow plug busbar. You count 20 seconds in your head, and then turn the key to the cranking position in order to start.
Because you don't want your plugs inadvertently left on, the switch should be "the momentary type" whereby your finger must overcome an internal spring to get the "on" position (and the spring will automatically revert the switch back to it's "open position" as soon as you finger is removed).
So the thick 24V supply cable (from your relay) goes to your busbar (which is connected to your 4 glow plugs) and everything else connected to the busbar gets removed/disconnected. The temperature sender, current sensor, timer, glow sub-relay etc (used to control your old superglow preheat) will then be all superfluous.
If you want, you could put a little light on the dash that glows whenever you have your finger on the momentary switch (as an added touch).
As for what the PO has done with that switch etc, they probably used that for "afterglow" to re-energise the busbar (at will) once the engine is running to get it to run more smoothly after start-up in extremely cold weather.
