What Do I Need to Do After Lifting My GX460? (1 Viewer)

[WTITW]

I got a ton of help installing my new lift from the community over the weekend but wanted to poll you guys one last time for all the important after lift stuff. Would love some insight on the following:

How much settling is expected? - I was shipped a 2.5/2" lift kit that somehow morphed into a 3.25/3.875 lift... (Yes, I measured from the hub center)
How long should I wait before I align it?
When should I align it again?
When should I re-torque if at all?
Do I need to do any software/systems calibrations? - Zero point? The rear end sure felt squirrely when I flipped a quick u-turn earlier.
Is there anything I'm missing that I should be asking?

Does this look like a 2.5"/2"? Anyone used the ironman airbag delete kit on their 460 had a similar result? I used their Toyo 056B coils which are supposed to give a GX460 2 inches in the rear.

 

[Rednexus]

My answers are more 470-specific, but should generally be applicable:

How much settling is expected? - I was shipped a 2.5/2" lift kit that somehow morphed into a 3.25/3.875 lift... (Yes, I measured from the hub center)
My FCP Stage 2 kit settled very little. I did not measure it but would estimate it was 0.5" or less. I also ended up with a 3"+ lift up front, due to the OEM coils being very saggy. The lift number assumes a non-saggy stock coil.

Also, what setting are your rear coil conversions on? I put mine all the way on the bottom and got a 2" lift. If you have them higher than that....you'll get more lift. I'd drop them to the bottom unless they are already there. Or double-check that you were sent the correct coils.

How long should I wait before I align it?
I would get it aligned ASAP, as the alignment will be totally off and will not handle well at all, and might also cause tire wear. Obviously you'll want to drive it enough to make sure everything is OK. I drove mine 50 miles and then went straight to the alignment shop.

When should I align it again?
My lift was aligned 50 miles after installation. I then had it re-aligned at around 5K after install due to putting in a new steering rack. It drives way better! I think there was some settling that occurred in that 5K and gradually caused the alignment to change. So I'd get it aligned again in 4-6 months.

When should I re-torque if at all?
If you torqued "big" things to spec (mainly the lower shock bolts, front and rear, sway bar end link bolts, panhard bar bolts) with a torque wrench, they probably aren't going to back off. Stuff that might back off includes things that you can't get a torque wrench on or have some sort of a rubber bushing. I would give it a couple of weeks and then check your long inner UCA bolt, the three top strut bolts, and the rear upper shock bolts (those backed off on mine, along with the sway bar end link bolts that I hadn't bothered to use a torque wrench on).

If you didn't use a torque wrench I'd probably check all of the bolts.

Do I need to do any software/systems calibrations? - Zero point? The rear end sure felt squirrely when I flipped a quick u-turn earlier.
Yes, do a ZPC, after you get an alignment.

Is there anything I'm missing that I should be asking?
I would highly recommend a Eimkeith panhard bar correction kit. It takes some very simple welding, but will give you a nice, level panhard bar in the rear and help restore your handling. The adjustable panhard bar will end up at an angle due to your lift, and may result in your axle moving more side-to-side as your suspension flexes.

Also, you might start ripping inner CV boots with the lift (ask me how I know....), so be ready to do a boot or CV axle upgrade within a few months.

 

[URJ150L]

What were your actual pre lift measurements (helps determine sag factor)? What iron man kit did you buy (light, medium, heavy)? What are your future upgrade plans that will add weight (dual battery, bumpers, winch, sliders, skids etc)?

I got about .25” of settling over the next week. I aligned mine the next day, although it felt totally fine prior to doing so. I haven’t aligned it or re-torqued again and that was two years ago… everything is just fine and that’s with plenty of wheeling. I never did any sort or recalibration either… I checked all functionally (lane departure, pre-collision, adaptive cruise) and all worked as expected.

I’d look into upgrading your bump stops… I’m running the timbren kit. Did you install aftermarket adjustable control arms? This will help with the alignment.

Your pic looks normal for a lifted 150.

 

[r2m]

I agree with pretty much everything Rednexus listed. But, just to add my 2 cents:
Any vehicle I've ever lifted, the suspension has settled. Load it up for a day trip in your local hills, bounce it around a bit and then come home and measure it again. Also the ride will be a little smoother after it settles in too.
Absolutely get it aligned ASAP!! A good shop will tell you when you should get it aligned again.
Go about a hundred miles and then re-torque. Most importantly, check your lug nuts!
I wasn't aware of any zero calibration, but then I didn't install my lift...
Regarding the pan hard bar, I have the 3.5" lift and have never felt the need for one. But again, never having had one, I may not know what I'm missing?? But my rig has always driven great, both on and off road.

 

[xychromosome]

I got a ton of help installing my new lift from the community over the weekend but wanted to poll you guys one last time for all the important after lift stuff. Would love some insight on the following:

How much settling is expected? - I was shipped a 2.5/2" lift kit that somehow morphed into a 3.25/3.875 lift... (Yes, I measured from the hub center)
How long should I wait before I align it?
When should I align it again?
When should I re-torque if at all?
Do I need to do any software/systems calibrations? - Zero point? The rear end sure felt squirrely when I flipped a quick u-turn earlier.
Is there anything I'm missing that I should be asking?

Does this look like a 2.5"/2"? Anyone used the ironman airbag delete kit on their 460 had a similar result? I used their Toyo 056B coils which are supposed to give a GX460 2 inches in the rear.

Looks kind of high in the rear, IMHO. What type of ironman kit did you get? I got a 2.5"/2" nitro lift (non air bag delete) and got right around those numbers in lift, plus the lift from larger tires.
To add to your list above, did you install KDSS spacers? I think those are coming with the ironman kits now. Any lean issues?

 

[re_guderian]

Interesting comments about CV joints and bump stops. Coming from the 100 series platform, I ran diff drops and Wheeler OR bump stops on both my lifted rigs, and they both bottomed out frequently (before the bumpstops). I find on the GX 460 that virutally no one is running a diff drop, not many complaints about failing CV joints due to new angles on old joints, and I have yet to bottom out my front suspension after wheeling it hard. One would think the (slightly) narrower width of the GX would be worse for CV joint angles on lifted rigs. Did the do any design changes to the joints themselves?

Did you do new UCA's with the lift? If so, I found them hard to torque "at ride height", as most of them require. My torque wrench wouldn't get a "click" of movement between the tire and fender clearance. I took the tires off, lifted the truck and supported the frame on jack stands, and used the jack under the LCA to get the suspension back up to "ride height" without the tire, and then torqued the nut on the trough bolt. There's probably some fancy-schmancy tool that would help here, but I don't know what it is. It's either a $4,000 Snap-On, or some $12 NAPA tool...

 

[Rednexus]

To clarify for the CV's, the actual joint itself is totally fine, it's the inner boot that fails (due to the ribs touching when rotating - I corrected my typo above ). However, I understand the 150 CV design was upgraded from the 120 CV design, so maybe it's not as much of an issue on the 150s as my 120 (where my inner boots split in around 5K of lifting - also a common problem with 4Runner and Tacomas as well without a diff drop).

I do concur that bump stops are a good upgrade - I have the DuroBumps on my GX and love them.

 

[skey44]

I got a ton of help installing my new lift from the community over the weekend but wanted to poll you guys one last time for all the important after lift stuff. Would love some insight on the following:

How much settling is expected? - I was shipped a 2.5/2" lift kit that somehow morphed into a 3.25/3.875 lift... (Yes, I measured from the hub center)
How long should I wait before I align it?
When should I align it again?
When should I re-torque if at all?
Do I need to do any software/systems calibrations? - Zero point? The rear end sure felt squirrely when I flipped a quick u-turn earlier.
Is there anything I'm missing that I should be asking?

Does this look like a 2.5"/2"? Anyone used the ironman airbag delete kit on their 460 had a similar result? I used their Toyo 056B coils which are supposed to give a GX460 2 inches in the rear.

View attachment 2904647

Looks like a 2.5” and 2” compared to mine. I have a 2” and 1.75” from Dobinsons. It rides a little stink bug until I load out for a trip. Just give it some time.
Definitely get a GOOD alignment asap. I had to go to multiple sources (big box is awful at lifted alignments).
The rough ride will be good once you air down and are off road.
Do you plan bigger tires? A winch? Heavy load for trips?
You look ready for a load.

 

[skey44]

Your pic also doesn’t appear to be on level ground.

 

[WTITW]

Looks kind of high in the rear, IMHO. What type of ironman kit did you get? I got a 2.5"/2" nitro lift (non air bag delete) and got right around those numbers in lift, plus the lift from larger tires.
To add to your list above, did you install KDSS spacers? I think those are coming with the ironman kits now. Any lean issues?

Came with rear spacers and a pan-hard bar (fcp stage 1 kit). Yeah, the goal was to level it but now I have more rake. I think I should have gone with the stock load springs but they didn’t offer it in the kit. Talking to their installer when I can get a few minutes to schedule it.

 

[WTITW]

Looks like a 2.5” and 2” compared to mine. I have a 2” and 1.75” from Dobinsons. It rides a little stink bug until I load out for a trip. Just give it some time.
Definitely get a GOOD alignment asap. I had to go to multiple sources (big box is awful at lifted alignments).
The rough ride will be good once you air down and are off road.
Do you plan bigger tires? A winch? Heavy load for trips?
You look ready for a load.

Eventually… wallet dependent. I dont like debt so we’re just funding the truck as we go. Id like a hide a winch in the front and a rear swing out setup for water and a tire. Currently Im limited to the 265’s becuase they fit underneath.

 

[WTITW]

Your pic also doesn’t appear to be on level ground.

Yeah, forgot about that. Getting it aligned. Will shoot a pic and repost after.

 

[WTITW]

Interesting comments about CV joints and bump stops. Coming from the 100 series platform, I ran diff drops and Wheeler OR bump stops on both my lifted rigs, and they both bottomed out frequently (before the bumpstops). I find on the GX 460 that virutally no one is running a diff drop, not many complaints about failing CV joints due to new angles on old joints, and I have yet to bottom out my front suspension after wheeling it hard. One would think the (slightly) narrower width of the GX would be worse for CV joint angles on lifted rigs. Did the do any design changes to the joints themselves?

Did you do new UCA's with the lift? If so, I found them hard to torque "at ride height", as most of them require. My torque wrench wouldn't get a "click" of movement between the tire and fender clearance. I took the tires off, lifted the truck and supported the frame on jack stands, and used the jack under the LCA to get the suspension back up to "ride height" without the tire, and then torqued the nut on the trough bolt. There's probably some fancy-schmancy tool that would help here, but I don't know what it is. It's either a $4,000 Snap-On, or some $12 NAPA tool...

I didnt do uca’s becuase they said I wouldn’t need them with this size. On the fence on a diff drop… not sure its needed.

 

[WTITW]

Got it aligned today. They couldn't get it into spec in front. Taking it to another shop tomorrow.

I had trouble with the zero point. Tried it three times now (paper clips). All the lights flash and everything is as expected from watching the videos available but after I did it the first time, the slip indicator came on and hasn't gone off since. I drove for about 10 miles after the lift and no lights or issues. Did the zero point and go the slip indicator each time that is persistent. Not sure what's going on there.

 

[Bang Bang]

When I installed crawl control I couldn’t get the zero point cal to work with the paper clips so I did it by using a switch. Worked first time.

 

[xychromosome]

Got it aligned today. They couldn't get it into spec in front. Taking it to another shop tomorrow.

I had trouble with the zero point. Tried it three times now (paper clips). All the lights flash and everything is as expected from watching the videos available but after I did it the first time, the slip indicator came on and hasn't gone off since. I drove for about 10 miles after the lift and no lights or issues. Did the zero point and go the slip indicator each time that is persistent. Not sure what's going on there.

Just to double check, did you insert the clip into the correct holes? Remember that the plug is upside down in the truck compared to the images shown here in the forums. I was confused when watching the zero cal videos as it looked like they were putting the pins in the wrong holes until I realized this!

 

[WTITW]

Just to double check, did you insert the clip into the correct holes? Remember that the plug is upside down in the truck compared to the images shown here in the forums. I was confused when watching the zero cal videos as it looked like they were putting the pins in the wrong holes until I realized this!

I think so… 5th from the left on top and bottom? I got all the vsc/trac Christmas tree lights at both stages. I’ll try again tomorrow after they re-check the alignment.

 

[xychromosome]

I think so… 5th from the left on top and bottom? I got all the vsc/trac Christmas tree lights at both stages. I’ll try again tomorrow after they re-check the alignment.

yep, 5th from the left, or 4th from the right

 

[r2m]

I didnt do uca’s becuase they said I wouldn’t need them with this size. On the fence on a diff drop… not sure its needed.

Absolutely do not waste your money on a diff drop. With the size of my lift and tire size, I specifically asked Eric, the owner of YotaMasters who did all my work if I needed a diff drop. I had one installed on my 100 series LC, running 2.5" lift with 35" tires.
He was very animate about not needing one, and this is from a guy who's shop only does Toyota's, mostly 4R's and Taco's.
The entire time I've had my rig, I've never felt I've needed one.
There is still plenty of flex in the CV's with your lift (and mine).

 

[Hehena]

You absolutely need UCA's to get the required caster so the truck tracks properly.

I used SPC's