What did you work on tonight? (1 Viewer)

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I "swapped" the ATF a few years ago and haven't checked it since. It had probably 150k on it when I did it. About to hit 200k soon.

I still need to pick up some ATF and take out the WS I put in the steering system. What kind do you use in there?

I use walmart brand ATF in everything I own. I think they have a "high mileage" version now, can't recall exactly.
 
I use walmart brand ATF in everything I own. I think they have a "high mileage" version now, can't recall exactly.
I drained and filled the coolant not super long ago and replaced hoses. I should replace the radiator and thermostat as I didn't do it then.

I'll grab some Walmart ATF. Thanks!
 
I "swapped" the ATF a few years ago and haven't checked it since. It had probably 150k on it when I did it. About to hit 200k soon.

I still need to pick up some ATF and take out the WS I put in the steering system. What kind do you use in there?
As a counterpoint, I use Castrol Transmax Import Multi-vehicle for anything that doesn't require WS. And for the power steering fluid I've gotten in the habit of using Valvoline Synthetic ATF with some AT-205 added in to slow down the leaks that seem to be in every old vehicle I own. It has extended the life of the steering rack in my '99 LC and I have started a reservoir drain and fill on my '02 and '05 4Runners that are starting to ooze fluid.
 
The older a vehicle gets the more likely hydraulic seals will give out. If I can find good replacement parts, I install them. If it's a mystery metal part from a mystery manufacturer, I do not bother with the junk. If they expect me to give up a Japanese part in a core charge scheme, I pass. I tend to rebuild any quality part that is not damaged as long as I can find a good rebuild kit. Toyota and its OEM suppliers use their names or marks on castings and forgings. It's good to learn them.
 
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And you're still on the original radiator cap?! ;) As a 1FZ-FE owner, you should know better than to risk overheating for something so simple. I had to learn it the hard way with my 80.:bang:
i know, RIGHT? I couldn't believe it either. :bang:
 
Inside a 5vz-fe supercharger
inside a 5vzfe super charger.JPG

These superchargers are discussed from time to time amongst club members. Figured I would share my experiences. Magnuson/Eaton made these superchargers for Toyota. This is fortunate because rebuild kits and parts subassemblies are available. The only tricky part of this rebuild is removing the rear bearings from the supercharger housing. The pair of these bearings are in the picture in a plastic bag above the calipers. As always, clean components, measure parts for wear, replace unserviceable components, reassemble, and install. DO NOT FORGET TO PUT THE OIL INTO THE SUPERCHARGER RESERVIOR BEFORE STARTING THE ENGINE.
 
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i know, RIGHT? I couldn't believe it either. :bang:
I just had a similar experience - my 270k mile 2000 LX had a new radiator before I bought it in 2019. Surely the cap was new with the radiator but I just discovered it is leaking. Had to put an AutoZoner on it this morning as I was leaving for 110 degree PHX heat.
 
Inside a 5vz-fe supercharger
View attachment 3937106
These superchargers are discussed from time to time amongst club members. Figured I would share my experiences. Magnuson/Eaton made these superchargers for Toyota. This is fortunate because rebuild kits and parts subassemblies are available. The only tricky part of this rebuild is removing the rear bearings from the supercharger housing. The pair of these bearings are in the picture in a plastic bag above the calipers. As always, clean components, measure parts for wear, replace unserviceable components, reassemble, and install. DO NOT FORGET TO PUT THE OIL INTO THE SUPERCHARGER RESERVIOR BEFORE STARTING THE ENGINE.
what goes bad in these things? If the oil has been changed regularly, I'd imagine the bearings would be fine. The lobe to wall clearance would be an wear item is my guess. Not sure if that can be dealt with unless a new rotor is the answer.
 
what goes bad in these things? If the oil has been changed regularly, I'd imagine the bearings would be fine. The lobe to wall clearance would be an wear item is my guess. Not sure if that can be dealt with unless a new rotor is the answer.
The human factor is a big variable. Someone could put a smaller pulley on the supercharger to get more engine performance. Premature component wear? Found a large amount of sand in the rotating assembly. Vandalism? A thorough inspection is always in order. Rebuild it to be on the safe side.
 
I'll know what I'll be doing after work today :rofl: . Young kid at work got sideways with his diesel dually 2x2 in Bernalillo.

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Nothing like a roadside fix while getting home from the lake! Turned out that the 430,xxx mile old radiator cap died. Top radiator hose blew off due to high pressure buildup while making a huge mess everywhere. I took the Tstat out in case it was sticking, then added water and kept on going. At home, I tested out the Tstat and it's fine, and a new radiator cap is on order. The cap from the 80 wouldn't work in the 4runner, unfortunately. I'll swap out the radiator, hoses, & Tstat at the end of summer. Interestingly enough, the 80 cap is 0.9 bar, while the 4.7 cap is 1.1 bar.
Just one more comment on the radiator cap thread. Ali - thanks for sharing this! Radiator caps are generally out of sight and out of mind, but as with other maintenance items - it's cheap insurance. My 80 got a new cap with a new radiator a couple years ago, so it's good for a while. But it occurred to me that I've got several other radiator caps that are original equipment from the factory and have never been replaced - 2012 Tundra (13 years old), 2009 Hybrid Camry (16 years old), 2000 Celica (25 years old!). Just got new ones at Sandia Toyota and will get them installed today.
 
Just one more comment on the radiator cap thread. Ali - thanks for sharing this! Radiator caps are generally out of sight and out of mind, but as with other maintenance items - it's cheap insurance. My 80 got a new cap with a new radiator a couple years ago, so it's good for a while. But it occurred to me that I've got several other radiator caps that are original equipment from the factory and have never been replaced - 2012 Tundra (13 years old), 2009 Hybrid Camry (16 years old), 2000 Celica (25 years old!). Just got new ones at Sandia Toyota and will get them installed today.

you're welcome. Speaking of radiator caps, there's one other thing that we are suppose to do and that is to check the voltage of the coolant water. Yes, you heard me correctly!

I'll let AI tell you all about it.
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To check the voltage of your radiator coolant, you'll need a multimeter and a bit of automotive knowledge. The test helps determine the condition of your coolant and its ability to inhibit corrosion. A low voltage reading generally indicates the coolant is in good shape, while higher readings suggest it's time for a replacement.

Here's how to perform the check:
  1. Set up your multimeter: Set the multimeter to DC voltage, typically to the 20V range.

  2. Locate a ground point: Find a clean, unpainted metal surface on the engine block or chassis as a ground for the black lead.

  3. Insert the positive lead: Carefully insert the red lead of the multimeter into the coolant. You can do this by carefully opening the radiator cap (when the engine is cool) or by using the coolant reservoir if accessible.

  4. Take the reading: Note the voltage reading on the multimeter.

  5. Interpret the results:
    • A reading of 0.3 volts or less generally indicates the coolant is in good condition and still effectively inhibits corrosion.

    • A reading between 0.4 and 0.6 volts is considered borderline, and you should consider a coolant flush.

    • A reading of 0.7 volts or more indicates the coolant has degraded significantly and needs to be replaced.
 
I'll know what I'll be doing after work today :rofl: . Young kid at work got sideways with his diesel dually 2x2 in Bernalillo.

View attachment 3940752 View attachment 3940753

So, we showed up to the scene and it dawned on me quickly that my 7500# Beastie will not be able to pull out this truck. The Dually was buried up to the frame and there was not a single tree for me to anchor Beastie.

A wrecker was already on scene so things were moving in the right direction. We also learned that someone tried to steal this truck by popping the steering column apart but wasn't able to turn the ignition on and move the steering wheel so that the wheels were pointing straight. Another clue was the remnant of a broken strap still stuck to the bottom suspension from a failed stealing attempt.

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This...
2jz bullet.JPG

was removed from the head of this Toyota engine.
2jz.jpg

Yes, Toyota builds bulletproof engines! 😁 The valve cover was replaced, and this engine's vehicle had been driven for a while after the shooting. Small pieces of lead migrated into the oil pan. Fortunately, I was after parts, so this engine was opened up.
 
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This...
View attachment 3945597
was removed from the head of this Toyota engine.

Yes, Toyota builds bulletproof engines! 😁 The valve cover was replaced, and this engine's vehicle had been driven for a while after the shooting. Small pieces of lead migrated into the oil pan. Fortunately, I was after parts, so this engine was opened up.
:oops::oops::oops::oops::oops::oops::oops::oops::oops::oops::oops::oops:
Burque
 
Well, that motorcycle snowball keeps rolling and getting bigger. I love the Beamer GS, but i sure missed having a cruiser. Found a great deal on one that was the perfect color and in awesome shape so I had to have it.
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Alignment has been out since cruise moab. Finally got around to scheduling an Alignment and ordered new tires. Getting ready for Texas Toyota Takeover event. Brakes are next
 

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