Rebuilt a Warn XD9000i for the Tundra. Will install with synthetic line and Westin winch tray.
What did you do with your Tundra or Sequoia this weekend? (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter Bryanseye
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Winch tray is installed
Finished product...
A-little spring cleaning. I gave the carpet a well needed shampooing
Info please on the orange quilted mat.
New to me 06 AWD
Finally got them installed!
Bilstein 6112’s and 1.75” Dobinsons rear springs/shocks.
Dealer wanted $700 just to install the rear springs so I started researching spring compressors. It’s really hard to find any good spring install tutorials for the 2nd Gen Sequoia. I finally came across this compressor, mine is from Eastwood and there are other brands out there just like it. Paid $125 shipped with a sale they had.
Jacked the truck up, wheel off and removed the rear shock. This let the lower arm come down some. I put a little bottle jack on top of the knuckle and under the lip where the bump stop is mounted and “jacked” it open about 2” or so……..this pressed the lower control arm even more and allowed me to remove the stock spring with my spring compressor. This compressor is amazing and really took no effort to use……..so satisfied with this purchase! The only thing I really had to pay attention to was how the new spring would line up correctly in the lower arm cup and be sure the compressor was positioned on the spring at the right spot so it wouldn’t hit the control arm once I put the spring in and started “uncompressing” it.
The new spring is so beefy compared to the stock one, but the compressor made quick work of it and in no time I had it compressed enough to put in. I used a 1/2” ratchet to compress it because the maker says don’t use an impact gun, probably for “safety” reasons. I used an impact gun on the other side and it worked great and I didn’t die!
I had read so much about people removing ball joints, disconnecting the knuckle, loosening the control arm bolts and disconnecting the sway bar but one guy told me he didn’t do any of that, just pressed the control arm down to make enough room.
I did have to open the bottle jack a little more……..about another inch to make more room for the new spring. It went in easier than I ever thought it would after reading all the horror stories of these springs flexing outward. I decompressed the compressor carefully, making sure the bottom of the spring was lined up in the lower arm cup and it was in!! Took the compressor off and lowered the bottle jack and removed it. Installed the shock, bottom first, then used a small suitcase jack to raise the lower arm until the top of the shock lined up with it’s mounting holes and secured the bolt…….done, just like that, I was so happy it worked! I did the other side even faster and started on my fronts.
I thought the fronts would be easier but they were harder!!
I have these 6112’s set on the 2nd notch up from the bottom which should be a 2.7” lift.
Jacked up the truck, wheel off and I removed the 4 nuts at the top of the strut. I disconnected the sway bar and removed the lower strut bolt. The strut extended down into its little mounting point. I tried to push the lower arm down but it barely budged, even with an extra jack handle, I pryed in between the arm and body. What to do? I disconnected the upper control arm at the ball joint and this helped and I pryed the arm down enough with the jack handle and got the strut out but it was difficult. I new the new strut/spring was gonna be tough to get in. I installed the strut/spring at the top and secured the 4 nuts. The bottom of the strut was well below its mounting point which is like an enclosed metal box on the lower arm. For the love of me I could not push the arm down low enough, prying and pushing, it wouldn’t go!! I watched a YouTube video where a guy disconnected the lower ball joint and loosened the control arm bolts and the whole arm swung down! So I connected the upper control arm back to the knuckle and started on the lower ball joint. The nice thing about our Sequoia’s, I noticed, is they have two big bolts that secure the knuckle to the lower control arm………I didn’t have to disconnect the ball joint and just removed those two huge bolts. This freed up the lower arm and I then loosened both ginormous (24mm) bolts that secure the lower control arm to the frame. I then took my jack handle and pryed down on the lower control arm and the whole arm swung down! I got the bottom of the strut in and meticulously lined up the mounting bolt, suitcase jacked the arm back up and secured the sway bar and secured the two big bolts that held the lower arm to the knuckle back. The two big bolts took a lot of fine motor skills to line up and screw back in. And that was it! I got the wheel back on and did the other side, obviously much faster than the first side. I got the truck lowered and went underneath and tightened the control arm bolts, sway bar bolts and both lower strut mounting bolts while they were under the full weight of the truck. I did this to the two rear upper and lower mounting bolts for rear shock as well.
Took it out for its maiden voyage down the road and was very impressed with the ride! It’s definitely stiffer, very firm but not too firm, really nice! It’s not bouncy at all either. It’s a very well controlled suspension for sure! I can’t wait to feel it on the highway and in turns and long sweepers at speed!
Bilstein 6112’s and 1.75” Dobinsons rear springs/shocks.
Dealer wanted $700 just to install the rear springs so I started researching spring compressors. It’s really hard to find any good spring install tutorials for the 2nd Gen Sequoia. I finally came across this compressor, mine is from Eastwood and there are other brands out there just like it. Paid $125 shipped with a sale they had.
Jacked the truck up, wheel off and removed the rear shock. This let the lower arm come down some. I put a little bottle jack on top of the knuckle and under the lip where the bump stop is mounted and “jacked” it open about 2” or so……..this pressed the lower control arm even more and allowed me to remove the stock spring with my spring compressor. This compressor is amazing and really took no effort to use……..so satisfied with this purchase! The only thing I really had to pay attention to was how the new spring would line up correctly in the lower arm cup and be sure the compressor was positioned on the spring at the right spot so it wouldn’t hit the control arm once I put the spring in and started “uncompressing” it.
The new spring is so beefy compared to the stock one, but the compressor made quick work of it and in no time I had it compressed enough to put in. I used a 1/2” ratchet to compress it because the maker says don’t use an impact gun, probably for “safety” reasons. I used an impact gun on the other side and it worked great and I didn’t die!
I had read so much about people removing ball joints, disconnecting the knuckle, loosening the control arm bolts and disconnecting the sway bar but one guy told me he didn’t do any of that, just pressed the control arm down to make enough room.
I did have to open the bottle jack a little more……..about another inch to make more room for the new spring. It went in easier than I ever thought it would after reading all the horror stories of these springs flexing outward. I decompressed the compressor carefully, making sure the bottom of the spring was lined up in the lower arm cup and it was in!! Took the compressor off and lowered the bottle jack and removed it. Installed the shock, bottom first, then used a small suitcase jack to raise the lower arm until the top of the shock lined up with it’s mounting holes and secured the bolt…….done, just like that, I was so happy it worked! I did the other side even faster and started on my fronts.
I thought the fronts would be easier but they were harder!!
I have these 6112’s set on the 2nd notch up from the bottom which should be a 2.7” lift.
Jacked up the truck, wheel off and I removed the 4 nuts at the top of the strut. I disconnected the sway bar and removed the lower strut bolt. The strut extended down into its little mounting point. I tried to push the lower arm down but it barely budged, even with an extra jack handle, I pryed in between the arm and body. What to do? I disconnected the upper control arm at the ball joint and this helped and I pryed the arm down enough with the jack handle and got the strut out but it was difficult. I new the new strut/spring was gonna be tough to get in. I installed the strut/spring at the top and secured the 4 nuts. The bottom of the strut was well below its mounting point which is like an enclosed metal box on the lower arm. For the love of me I could not push the arm down low enough, prying and pushing, it wouldn’t go!! I watched a YouTube video where a guy disconnected the lower ball joint and loosened the control arm bolts and the whole arm swung down! So I connected the upper control arm back to the knuckle and started on the lower ball joint. The nice thing about our Sequoia’s, I noticed, is they have two big bolts that secure the knuckle to the lower control arm………I didn’t have to disconnect the ball joint and just removed those two huge bolts. This freed up the lower arm and I then loosened both ginormous (24mm) bolts that secure the lower control arm to the frame. I then took my jack handle and pryed down on the lower control arm and the whole arm swung down! I got the bottom of the strut in and meticulously lined up the mounting bolt, suitcase jacked the arm back up and secured the sway bar and secured the two big bolts that held the lower arm to the knuckle back. The two big bolts took a lot of fine motor skills to line up and screw back in. And that was it! I got the wheel back on and did the other side, obviously much faster than the first side. I got the truck lowered and went underneath and tightened the control arm bolts, sway bar bolts and both lower strut mounting bolts while they were under the full weight of the truck. I did this to the two rear upper and lower mounting bolts for rear shock as well.
Took it out for its maiden voyage down the road and was very impressed with the ride! It’s definitely stiffer, very firm but not too firm, really nice! It’s not bouncy at all either. It’s a very well controlled suspension for sure! I can’t wait to feel it on the highway and in turns and long sweepers at speed!
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Nice write up
Just installed flowmaster 50 and deleted the redonator. Angled the dual tips to help mitigate the fumes away from the rear hatch when rear window is rolled down. Not because I want more HP or better mpg-its the sound that these sequoia deserves.
Impression:
*Low growl at idle and muted after cruising speed(around town)
*Nice growl when skinny pedal is floored.
*Not as loud as my magnaflow on my 80.
*No droning sound at freeway speeds.
*black ionidized vs raw finished.
*A LOT lighter than stock and smaller.
*Most importantly.....lets you know you have a V8.
Overall im happy. Just enough growl to let you know im there and does not have that "look at me everybody" sound. Love the sound during start up and definitely a nice V8 tone.
Impression:
*Low growl at idle and muted after cruising speed(around town)
*Nice growl when skinny pedal is floored.
*Not as loud as my magnaflow on my 80.
*No droning sound at freeway speeds.
*black ionidized vs raw finished.
*A LOT lighter than stock and smaller.
*Most importantly.....lets you know you have a V8.
Overall im happy. Just enough growl to let you know im there and does not have that "look at me everybody" sound. Love the sound during start up and definitely a nice V8 tone.
5100's up front last week. Dobinson's for the rear tomorrow morning.
Rear Dobinsons installed. Went through 7 cutting discs getting the old shocks off. No fun.
Not weekend yet but definitely Xmas came early!
New front sway bar bushings !!! Woo hoo !!!
JakeTheSnakeNH
GOLD Star
While I was in the rear hatch, swapped out the lift handle. It was starting to approach the consistency of melted chewing gum.
What year?
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