I know the two bolts pictured are in a different stress attitude in comparison to a normal use of a threaded bolt/nut. I'm just wondering if it would be the "smart thing" to get some grade 8 bolts rather than what I have now.
What did you do with your truck today? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter RSHARPfzj80
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I'd stick with the grade 5 in the hitch. Grade 8 have a much higher tensile strength (pulling on the fastener) but this higher tensile strength can come at the cost of ductility. In that configuration (double shear) with 2, a good grade 5 should be good.
Here you can see that a single grade 5 bolt in single shear gives you 14,000 lbs and I'm guessing those are bigger than that, so 2 in double shear should be plenty.
Here you can see that a single grade 5 bolt in single shear gives you 14,000 lbs and I'm guessing those are bigger than that, so 2 in double shear should be plenty.
ok thanks,
I'm not sure what size they are..(bolts)I need to find out. I've not used my trailer in a while and it stays over at my friends hay barn. I got it out the other day and greased it and was looking it over in prep to go over to near Jackson MS with it today. Everything went fine, I was noticing I need to do some painting etc. Aired up the tires and dropped the LC off at 49 tire. I do need to grab a couple of spare bolts, just to have...even though I'm guessing there will be bigger problems if these bolts ever break...not that I'm really concerned, more of an observation. I like the e-rated tires on the trailer, no issues with doing the speed limit or a little faster on the way home empty. I may need to replace the battery on the trailer break away setup, since I think its a few years old at this point. Also I actually looked up the instructions on the dexter ez-lube axles, (I had been lazy in the past) and not dealt with the greasing properly, hope my new approach works better. So far zero issues with the trailer in general (I have made a number of modifications to suit my preference). Trailer has two 5200lb axles as I recall which makes it max at 10,400lb - its weight of 3000lb = 7,400lb capacity. I have two spares on the trailer and over the last day or two I've not found my keys to the spares as I setup a red-neck lock setup to deter theft....but not so smart on the road if no keys (I took my battery powered disk grinder with me). I don't want to chop off the locks just yet, so back to the hunt for the heys, I thought I had them on my "key-ring" but for whatever reason they are not there.
I'm not sure what size they are..(bolts)I need to find out. I've not used my trailer in a while and it stays over at my friends hay barn. I got it out the other day and greased it and was looking it over in prep to go over to near Jackson MS with it today. Everything went fine, I was noticing I need to do some painting etc. Aired up the tires and dropped the LC off at 49 tire. I do need to grab a couple of spare bolts, just to have...even though I'm guessing there will be bigger problems if these bolts ever break...not that I'm really concerned, more of an observation. I like the e-rated tires on the trailer, no issues with doing the speed limit or a little faster on the way home empty. I may need to replace the battery on the trailer break away setup, since I think its a few years old at this point. Also I actually looked up the instructions on the dexter ez-lube axles, (I had been lazy in the past) and not dealt with the greasing properly, hope my new approach works better. So far zero issues with the trailer in general (I have made a number of modifications to suit my preference). Trailer has two 5200lb axles as I recall which makes it max at 10,400lb - its weight of 3000lb = 7,400lb capacity. I have two spares on the trailer and over the last day or two I've not found my keys to the spares as I setup a red-neck lock setup to deter theft....but not so smart on the road if no keys (I took my battery powered disk grinder with me). I don't want to chop off the locks just yet, so back to the hunt for the heys, I thought I had them on my "key-ring" but for whatever reason they are not there.
If those are the bolts provided by manufacturer then I would not be concerned, consider the other end, you most likely have a single 5/8 grade 5 pin holding the receiver hitch.
It’s just me but I grade 8 every when replacing bolts.
yeah, you are right.... I have the standard pin in the receiver portion, which looks to be a grade 5...just by observation.
I believe those two bolts were the same when I bought the trailer. The mfg of the trailer is just a few miles from where I live, I assume these are just large off-the-shelf bolts.
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well had the transfer case re-built / re-sealed. Everything seems to work ok. The skid pate was a royal pain in the @$$ to get back on the truck (working on the ground) even though it only has 5 bolts. On my driver side at the frame the skid plate has to bolt in first on the driver side and then work the passenger side to get the bolt holes to line up. Flexing the skid plate and trying to get the two passenger side holes to line up by oneself ...got into some choice words. Drove truck around North AL for about 5-6 hours Sun afternoon, so everything seems to be good to go. Next mini project is to replace a few rear brake components and then get my friend to help me or him make a small adapter to mate a rubber transmission shifter boot to mate with the floor shifter (transfer case). The slope of the trans tunnel makes it a little challenge to adapt a pre-made shiftier boot to work , but my friend will help figure out something to make it happen. Then,....its get the on board air stuff done.
I'm thinking of cutting a piece of marine grade plywood to serve as somewhat of a floor, in the bed area and then mount things to it. So essentially cutting a large plywood piece (making some type of pattern out of cardboard) and bolting the plywood deck to the rear floor. sealing the plywood. Then I would have a surface to mount the on board air stuff and the planned for refrigerator and see what I might can work out on a drawer or whatever else and tie-down points. Might come up with some type of metal shield or something to shield or protect things from coming in contact with the on board air compressor, as I plan to mount it in the bed in some configuration that I've not yet figured out or set my mind to. Been looking at pics and trying to see what others have done. I dont' want to get burned or have something catch on fire or get exposed to heat damage...so I may go a little over-kill. I did see one of the on board air vendors had a nice setup where they have a tank and then the air compressor mounted to brackets on top of the tank, I inquired if I could buy the tank by-itself and the answer was no. So hopefully I will come up with some solution for the install that conserves space and is safe. I saw where one of the on line vendors / fab guys came up with a mount for on board air with the 80 that seems to mount to the 80's body underneath in the area above the rear axle, not sure if that might be easily adapted to the 60, I've not looked at the space under the 60, too hard, since I've had other things in play and only now am I getting around to the on-board air setup myself...after some extended wasted time.
I got in line to buy a new trim panel from trail tailor (replacement panel for the 60's dash. I'm going to do that and then the dash will be whatever it will be after than, at least for "now".
I'm thinking of cutting a piece of marine grade plywood to serve as somewhat of a floor, in the bed area and then mount things to it. So essentially cutting a large plywood piece (making some type of pattern out of cardboard) and bolting the plywood deck to the rear floor. sealing the plywood. Then I would have a surface to mount the on board air stuff and the planned for refrigerator and see what I might can work out on a drawer or whatever else and tie-down points. Might come up with some type of metal shield or something to shield or protect things from coming in contact with the on board air compressor, as I plan to mount it in the bed in some configuration that I've not yet figured out or set my mind to. Been looking at pics and trying to see what others have done. I dont' want to get burned or have something catch on fire or get exposed to heat damage...so I may go a little over-kill. I did see one of the on board air vendors had a nice setup where they have a tank and then the air compressor mounted to brackets on top of the tank, I inquired if I could buy the tank by-itself and the answer was no. So hopefully I will come up with some solution for the install that conserves space and is safe. I saw where one of the on line vendors / fab guys came up with a mount for on board air with the 80 that seems to mount to the 80's body underneath in the area above the rear axle, not sure if that might be easily adapted to the 60, I've not looked at the space under the 60, too hard, since I've had other things in play and only now am I getting around to the on-board air setup myself...after some extended wasted time.
I got in line to buy a new trim panel from trail tailor (replacement panel for the 60's dash. I'm going to do that and then the dash will be whatever it will be after than, at least for "now".
Finally taking the 40 out of a long hibernation. After getting it running well enough prior to it’s visit to Cam in Memphis to go through and once deemed in suitable, he’ll be installing Fuel Injection. But, prior to that I wanted to baseline all the suspension/steering and driveline.
Today’s project was to mount up the 39” Blue Label Krawlers I’d picked up barely used in Nashville when the Shelter in Place was lifted. These went on a new set of 17” Raceline’s. Got them mounted up shortly after getting the tires, but discovered a cosmetic issue on 1of the 5 so it had to go back and that was a bit of a cluster.
Got the replacement last weekend and got it mounted up.
Installed them this evening. Of note, a wife and a flat head shovel make the perfect fulcrum to help one work smarter—-not harder on the rears.
Today’s project was to mount up the 39” Blue Label Krawlers I’d picked up barely used in Nashville when the Shelter in Place was lifted. These went on a new set of 17” Raceline’s. Got them mounted up shortly after getting the tires, but discovered a cosmetic issue on 1of the 5 so it had to go back and that was a bit of a cluster.
Got the replacement last weekend and got it mounted up.
Installed them this evening. Of note, a wife and a flat head shovel make the perfect fulcrum to help one work smarter—-not harder on the rears.
Finally took some time away from my 14 other projects to get the 80 up and running on its own time since May ish.
this thread is lonely....
one of my new play-toys burned me. Acquired a battery powered grease gun not long ago and decided to get it working over the weekend. I have a 3 inch OME or whatever suspension lift that has a few grease points on each end of the leaf spring. Well my new Milwaukee battery powered grease gun works well, but it has a problem, once its mated with the zerk fitting , its hell to get it removed. After a few rounds of going through the various grease fittings....I had to give it "he$$" to get the fitting loose from the zerk and magically the zerk snapped in half, I've not yet had the fun to clean up the excess grease and see if the zerk actually broke clean off or left some presents buried in the grease. so do I have to simply replace the zerk or potentially replace the "pin".... thats the million dollar question.
on a similar note I actually grease my car hauler trailer with no negatives.... if the grease gun continues with its stubborn approach Ill have to get another tip on it....
next mini project is to swap fluid on the rear diff and replace sealant on rear diff cover to FIPG, and then of course install one of those custom non leaking steering gears.....
was trying to get my friend motivated to tackle another potential leak, but he took the easy route out, and decided to get neck surgery.... where is your help when you need it
one of my new play-toys burned me. Acquired a battery powered grease gun not long ago and decided to get it working over the weekend. I have a 3 inch OME or whatever suspension lift that has a few grease points on each end of the leaf spring. Well my new Milwaukee battery powered grease gun works well, but it has a problem, once its mated with the zerk fitting , its hell to get it removed. After a few rounds of going through the various grease fittings....I had to give it "he$$" to get the fitting loose from the zerk and magically the zerk snapped in half, I've not yet had the fun to clean up the excess grease and see if the zerk actually broke clean off or left some presents buried in the grease. so do I have to simply replace the zerk or potentially replace the "pin".... thats the million dollar question.
on a similar note I actually grease my car hauler trailer with no negatives.... if the grease gun continues with its stubborn approach Ill have to get another tip on it....
next mini project is to swap fluid on the rear diff and replace sealant on rear diff cover to FIPG, and then of course install one of those custom non leaking steering gears.....
was trying to get my friend motivated to tackle another potential leak, but he took the easy route out, and decided to get neck surgery.... where is your help when you need it