What did you do with your truck today?
- Thread starter RSHARPfzj80
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Yeah, I finally got around to tackling two of the major problem areas. I'm driving it around locally to see how things go and to make sure I don't get surprised. One larger project I don't want to screw with myself is I need to potentially get the TC rebuilt. I need to see where my leak is and see if that fixable or if the case has to be split. If it has to be split I'm going to just get it rebuilt, along with addressing the source of the leak, after which I should not have to deal with any drive-line issues, even though I guess I need to re-do the birfields. I even washed it a little bit, I really need to get in there now and hose it down while the temps are hot and I have hardly anything in the interior. I was up at the shop today screwing around with some minor things and took a pic.
thanks.....I've made a few changes and it has plenty of dents and some challenges but it is mechanically sound and I trust it. Hail got it too... I hope in the next couple of months to get all the minor projects I started finished finally, maybe in OCT I'll take a few days off and just try to wrap up some things, hopefully the temps will be a good bit milder. I've just about decided whatever mods I'm good with ....that's where I'm going. Gave up on trying to keep the inside stock, some of the 80's plastic is showing its age. I ended up throwing away those plastic door pillar covers, sharp edges catch your shirt and prone to cut you or the shirt. Seems like more and more aftermarket stuff is out there too...noticed some nice trim pieces and other things which appear to be new from some of the mud members. For now, I'm just going to concentrate on what I need for the trail and street, then later if I want to improve on something I might.
any sPOD fanboys around here.
www.4x4spod.com
yeah I know jeeps seem to be their big market at least for these guys, but many things are universal.
or the low buck solution...
Amazon product ASIN B07QP5TQDK
or something like this
Amazon product ASIN B07M9X7N74
Looking to avoid chopping up my console for a toggle panel, but really just looking around. (controls for interior light, arb front and rear locker, air compressor and maybe driving/fog lights for now)
got to fix links
4x4sPOD™ - Power Management Solutions
sPOD™ power management solutions are engineered to provide a simple and safe way to control any 12/24v electrical accesory from a central control panel.
www.4x4spod.com
yeah I know jeeps seem to be their big market at least for these guys, but many things are universal.
or the low buck solution...
Amazon product ASIN B07QP5TQDK
or something like this
Amazon product ASIN B07M9X7N74
Looking to avoid chopping up my console for a toggle panel, but really just looking around. (controls for interior light, arb front and rear locker, air compressor and maybe driving/fog lights for now)
got to fix links
Haters will hate, but sPODs are cool sh!t. I don't know that I have enough things to connect, but if you do, then they seem to make wiring much easier.
maybe wrong thread but I'm going for gold anyway. Looking for recomendation on self contained LED lights to light interior of FJ60. STOCK interior lights are about zero. I would probally mount something at the top of each post area there behind teh front seat area, behind the rear seat area , up near the top facing towards the center, right near teh junction where the post transitions into the cab roof. What ever is the least painful and potentially also in the bed area. I'm long tired of no lights. Likely will have a toggle on the dash and maybe something near the rear bed tailgate which would turn the lights on....all of them to fully light the bed/ front and rear seat area where you can actually see. I saw some things on another web site.. but if anyone has good experience with a simple self contained LED white light that is easy to mount I'm listening. I'm not sure if there could be overkill here. but mabye 4 lights and one or two in the rear bed area...If I want to do self induced brain surgery ...that too would be a good option so I have enough light to see what the damage is.
Took the easy way out for now, got some LEDs for the OEM light assemblies from Odd Iron web site. I'll see how well that works.
Took the easy way out for now, got some LEDs for the OEM light assemblies from Odd Iron web site. I'll see how well that works.
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I'll do a google search, but off hand who knows the web site or a web site where they have a tool or info to show the specific gauge of wire to cover a known distance with a known amperage load? I don't want to go crazy on cable size but I do want to ensure I'm safe and have adequate cable diameter (gauge) for the distance and projected amp load. Car wiring, using conventional "primary wire" or otherwise marine grade wire suitable for the same purpose.
Right now planning on wiring for refrigerator at some point and soon will finally get around to on board air. Both devices will likely be in the rear bed area.
Right now planning on wiring for refrigerator at some point and soon will finally get around to on board air. Both devices will likely be in the rear bed area.
@Elbert this should help with your refrigerator. This is what i used when I purchased my ARB Frig/Freezer. Which has been working outstanding for 10 years now. Not sure what type of refrigerator you are planning on using but the ARB was worth every dollar to me. Also the ARB will run on 110v so it can double as a shop refrigerator when not on the trail. Just my two cents worth concerning wiring and refrig.
Now on board air. Here again it depends on the setup you are wanting to run. On the FJ Cruiser I built years ago I had an ARB setup but that was do to I had an ARB front locker so it only made sense to upgrade to the best compressor they offered. On the 40, 4Runner and WJ (Grand Cherokee) I just carried a "Hotdog"(the little red one) compressor I bought from Harbor Freight and just installed a good inverter. The WJ had ARB lockers and upgraded compressor on it as well.
ARB 10900027 ARB Fridge Freezer Wiring Kit And Threaded Socket Mount
by ARB
ARB Fridge Freezers Wiring Kit for quick installation onto your battery, compatible with all ARB Fridge Freezers
Consisting of 20ft (6m) of double insulated 10 gauge auto cable
Pre-assembled with in-line 15amp fuse and eyelets (8mm, 5/16") for quick installation onto your battery terminals
Included in this kit are 2 x 1/4" side entry quick-connect terminals and insulators
Included in this Kit PN: 10900028 from ARB socket mount outlet, 12/24V DC Wiring Kit
Now on board air. Here again it depends on the setup you are wanting to run. On the FJ Cruiser I built years ago I had an ARB setup but that was do to I had an ARB front locker so it only made sense to upgrade to the best compressor they offered. On the 40, 4Runner and WJ (Grand Cherokee) I just carried a "Hotdog"(the little red one) compressor I bought from Harbor Freight and just installed a good inverter. The WJ had ARB lockers and upgraded compressor on it as well.
ARB 10900027 ARB Fridge Freezer Wiring Kit And Threaded Socket Mount
by ARB
| List Price: | $43.00 |
| Price: | $40.85 Free Shipping for Prime Members |
| You Save: | $2.15 (5%) |
ARB Fridge Freezers Wiring Kit for quick installation onto your battery, compatible with all ARB Fridge Freezers
Consisting of 20ft (6m) of double insulated 10 gauge auto cable
Pre-assembled with in-line 15amp fuse and eyelets (8mm, 5/16") for quick installation onto your battery terminals
Included in this kit are 2 x 1/4" side entry quick-connect terminals and insulators
Included in this Kit PN: 10900028 from ARB socket mount outlet, 12/24V DC Wiring Kit
We just put the same kit in the GX for the fridge. It's all there, but the plug would only be useful with an ARB fridge.
Are you looking for a single feed with rear distribution, or separate feeds for each item? I will find my wire table and load/link it for you.
Are you looking for a single feed with rear distribution, or separate feeds for each item? I will find my wire table and load/link it for you.
thanks for the feedback. I have a few options based on what I've bought and just kind of stored away. I decided to try this product for onboard air.
www.extremeoutback.com
based on some discussions I had with someone with a lot of experience setting up air systems (this was a year or two ago), anyway I've had this compressor and misc parts for a while along with a tank. Now I'm finally getting around to doing something with them. So I'll use this to compressor for the onboard air , and to engage the ARB lockers. I do plan on getting an ARB fridge, but that's in the future, right now I'm trying to prep for the wiring and other things I've neglected for a while since the truck sat for a while and I finally got off my @@#@ and fixed the heater core. I think ARB may have changed that model line up recently (I dont' keep up with all that).
I replaced the panels on the left and right in my bed with some wood templates I made off the plastic parts a long time ago so I need to get some better fasterners to secure the panels. And along with that job I wanted to wire up an access/power point on one side for the fridge I'll get at some point, and then what I have now on the other side for the compressor.
I'm thinking two separate plugs (one on one side of the bed for the compressor, and one on the other side of the bed for the fridge) I don't think the fridge has much of an amp draw the air compressor does. I've not run down the exact amp draw to confirm just yet but the compressor is HD and looks to pull some "juice".
I have the arb lockers installed mechanically but not plumbed for air, I have the arb solonoids and the stuff that came with the kits for each mechanical locker, an air compressor as noted, a tank, and misc fittings and hose. I also bought one of those ARB maniold kits I think its called (it connects to the compressor head) and offers various ports (hi tech air manifold in a way). I bought a ARB electrica harness I may rob parts or chop up to use (I know its for the ARB compressor ) but it might be useful for parts, I've yet to explore that.
I want to get the wiring done first, the physical mount and install of above noted compressor and tank, then last ensure I get the plumbing for the air part fixed up.
I'll get one of those arb fridge connectors as mentioned.
ExtremeAire High Output 12 Volt Compressor | Extreme Outback
www.extremeoutback.com
based on some discussions I had with someone with a lot of experience setting up air systems (this was a year or two ago), anyway I've had this compressor and misc parts for a while along with a tank. Now I'm finally getting around to doing something with them. So I'll use this to compressor for the onboard air , and to engage the ARB lockers. I do plan on getting an ARB fridge, but that's in the future, right now I'm trying to prep for the wiring and other things I've neglected for a while since the truck sat for a while and I finally got off my @@#@ and fixed the heater core. I think ARB may have changed that model line up recently (I dont' keep up with all that).
I replaced the panels on the left and right in my bed with some wood templates I made off the plastic parts a long time ago so I need to get some better fasterners to secure the panels. And along with that job I wanted to wire up an access/power point on one side for the fridge I'll get at some point, and then what I have now on the other side for the compressor.
I'm thinking two separate plugs (one on one side of the bed for the compressor, and one on the other side of the bed for the fridge) I don't think the fridge has much of an amp draw the air compressor does. I've not run down the exact amp draw to confirm just yet but the compressor is HD and looks to pull some "juice".
I have the arb lockers installed mechanically but not plumbed for air, I have the arb solonoids and the stuff that came with the kits for each mechanical locker, an air compressor as noted, a tank, and misc fittings and hose. I also bought one of those ARB maniold kits I think its called (it connects to the compressor head) and offers various ports (hi tech air manifold in a way). I bought a ARB electrica harness I may rob parts or chop up to use (I know its for the ARB compressor ) but it might be useful for parts, I've yet to explore that.
I want to get the wiring done first, the physical mount and install of above noted compressor and tank, then last ensure I get the plumbing for the air part fixed up.
I'll get one of those arb fridge connectors as mentioned.
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any feedback on what to use to connect to the ARB locker at the differential. I see ARB offers a HD hose kit, does that make sense to use that to run from the differential ...presumbly over to the frame and then from there whatever air hose you want to use..(whaterver teh ARB products come with...small diameter plastic air line? I also want to setup eventially or maybe now is best, a front and rear air chuck for easy access to air externally (presumblyy off the front and rear bumper area.
looks like the arb fridge kit is setup to run all they way from the battery to the rear (I realize I can cut the wires). ? on past projects with fridge setup, did you run the wire inside the cab from the battery through the firewall and then in the cab to the fridge, or did you run the wire from the battery along the frame and then come back into the cab or bed area near the fridge?
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I ran wiring from battery through firewall back to rear passenger interior panel.
I just used the plastic hose that came with the ARB compressor. But I put 5/16 fuel hose over it for protection.
I just used the plastic hose that came with the ARB compressor. But I put 5/16 fuel hose over it for protection.
Ours is wired from the battery to the fridge plug thru the firewall.
ok..."cool"
hope to make some progress with the other wiring going on in the truck this weekend. Got the console back in , and the am/fm radio and amp back operational, will get the ham and cb radio operational too. I bought a (president) brand radio to try out (CB), its really small which, I was looking for that and its simple, a plus too. next a cig/charge panel from blue sea will go where the pocked in the dash use to be, and I installed a cig lighter / charge port on the rear of the console. I needed to re-do some of my previous stuff , because it was done in the drive-way and kind of a a "get it done to work mode" and not worry about details thing.
hope to make some progress with the other wiring going on in the truck this weekend. Got the console back in , and the am/fm radio and amp back operational, will get the ham and cb radio operational too. I bought a (president) brand radio to try out (CB), its really small which, I was looking for that and its simple, a plus too. next a cig/charge panel from blue sea will go where the pocked in the dash use to be, and I installed a cig lighter / charge port on the rear of the console. I needed to re-do some of my previous stuff , because it was done in the drive-way and kind of a a "get it done to work mode" and not worry about details thing.
well this out to give me some clues on setup. has a 100 amp continuous duty relay, says to use 6 gauge wiring but does not mention the length of wire that's good for, and a 50 circuit breaker for the primary feed. The breaker and relay came with the "kit", I've not yet really looked at all the parts.
there's a picture too,
Anway I'll start on this soon. Got the powered passenger seat working and I've got some gremlin in the drivers seat which I think is a ground or issue with my harness for the drivers seat. Its weird, I can run the passenger seat fine off a blue sea fuse panel with 30 amp fuses and a ground to one of bolts in the floor pan. driver seat using same setup does not want to work. Yet when I unhook things and power the driver seat off the harness using a regulated power supply for the ground and power it works. I combine the grounds and pos wires when testing so I get a good connection with the power supply. Right now I'm leaning to a poor connection on the ground side in my harness.
apparently known issue with driver side BMW seat and the black box control unit.
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Circuit Wizard - Blue Sea Systems
circuitwizard.bluesea.com
may help others
well I have fixed or fixed for now most of my wiring issues. On deck is to setup wiring for ARB frig/freeze ( I will soon get at some point) and also wiring and general setup for on-board air. I have most of the parts, I know I'll need to get a reasonabel long run of good cable to power the compressor and I bough one of the ARB vehicle harnesses for the frig deal. Found that the rocker switch "things" that hold the OEM rocker switchs in the dash are brittle and break on the most minimal leverage. Post up if anyone has seen or come up with solutions on using the OEM openings for replacement rockers or toggles....on a FJ60.
OK a trailer question...
See attached pics. I have a flat metal deck, car-hauler. This trailer has an adjustable tongue. Looks like I need to paint..but I have a the HD bull-dog ball coupler. Anyway.....so the trailer came with what appear to be grade 5 bolts that hold the tongue in the right position. These are two larger bolts with lock nuts (I dont' recall, but I may have put the lock nuts on there) that it came with. I'm wondering if I should replace these bolts with grade 8 bolts. Of course it would be a bad day if one or the other or both of these bolts broke and I don't have any reason to believe they will,but wondered if a large grade 8 bolt of the same size would be the better choice for this application?
See attached pics. I have a flat metal deck, car-hauler. This trailer has an adjustable tongue. Looks like I need to paint..but I have a the HD bull-dog ball coupler. Anyway.....so the trailer came with what appear to be grade 5 bolts that hold the tongue in the right position. These are two larger bolts with lock nuts (I dont' recall, but I may have put the lock nuts on there) that it came with. I'm wondering if I should replace these bolts with grade 8 bolts. Of course it would be a bad day if one or the other or both of these bolts broke and I don't have any reason to believe they will,but wondered if a large grade 8 bolt of the same size would be the better choice for this application?