Got my sun visors installed in my FJ 55.
Builds What did you do with your cruiser today? (8 Viewers)
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Also fixed my door plungers with some 3D printed parts from mud member in iron pig preservation @PabloCruise
Bought the lights years ago from Street Rod Parts ~ Replacement Seat Belts - https://www.julianos.com/
Pre LED
rusty_tlc
Dain Bramaged Member
Got one spring free, then the floor jack gave up. Did a run to Carson and picked up a new pair of jack stands and some hydraulic jack oil. I'll hit it again when the next window opens.
Stripped, clay bared, cut & polished, glazed, sealed, and waxed the Yagi today... The PO really did a number on the exterior. He even super glued his deuchey Overland Bound medallion on the fender so it is kinda like polishing a turd! 
I also installed my on-hwy nav system, satellite radio and my offroad navs. I got an sPOD to run the lights and aux equipment but it isn't installed yet.
I also installed my on-hwy nav system, satellite radio and my offroad navs. I got an sPOD to run the lights and aux equipment but it isn't installed yet.
Got the big girl tore down today. Found that I chipped 2 teeth on the front ring, no damage to the rear ringinion, but found I have rust on the rear locker shift fork slider. It looks like this is the reason why it was really lazy locking. Found out my diff ratio is 4.10, and that confirms that my tcase has under drive gears. Now, I need to decide what gears I’m going to get.
inion, but found I have rust on the rear locker shift fork slider. It looks like this is the reason why it was really lazy locking. Found out my diff ratio is 4.10, and that confirms that my tcase has under drive gears. Now, I need to decide what gears I’m going to get.
Didn’t realize that my post was cut off.
My max engine torque (~450 wheel), with the new turbo, will be around 2100rpm.
I have both the 10% under drive high gear, and the 3.1 low gear in my tcase. I’m trying to keep my rpm around 2200-2250 at 70.
So:
Keep 4.10s, and the 10% under drive @70 is 2340rpm
4.10s, stock high gear @70 is 2127rpm
4.10s, 10% over @70 is 1990rpm
4.56s, 10% under @70 is 2595rpm
4.56s, stock high gear @70 is 2365rpm
4.56s, go to a 10% over @70 is 2130rpm
4.88s, 10% under @70 is 2784
4.88s, stock high gear @70 is 2531
4.88s, 10% over @70 is 2278
I guess my choices would be to change from an under drive high gear to the over drive gear, and go to 4.56 or 4.88. I would need to figure out the install for the tcase gears and then I’ll sell the under drive gears.
My max engine torque (~450 wheel), with the new turbo, will be around 2100rpm.
I have both the 10% under drive high gear, and the 3.1 low gear in my tcase. I’m trying to keep my rpm around 2200-2250 at 70.
So:
Keep 4.10s, and the 10% under drive @70 is 2340rpm
4.10s, stock high gear @70 is 2127rpm
4.10s, 10% over @70 is 1990rpm
4.56s, 10% under @70 is 2595rpm
4.56s, stock high gear @70 is 2365rpm
4.56s, go to a 10% over @70 is 2130rpm
4.88s, 10% under @70 is 2784
4.88s, stock high gear @70 is 2531
4.88s, 10% over @70 is 2278
I guess my choices would be to change from an under drive high gear to the over drive gear, and go to 4.56 or 4.88. I would need to figure out the install for the tcase gears and then I’ll sell the under drive gears.
Keep the 4.10 gears and the t-case gears. Run an inch taller tire. The higher the gear number, the smaller the pinion gear head and tooth contact. You said 34.5" tire. Step up to a 37" tire, most are only 35 1/4 to 35.7" diameter loaded on the ground.
Try not to pull hard in reverse, that's the death of a high pinion 8" diff gear. That's why my 62 didn't get a hybrid 80 front. I'd rather have a smaller birfield than a smaller ring and pinion.
Try not to pull hard in reverse, that's the death of a high pinion 8" diff gear. That's why my 62 didn't get a hybrid 80 front. I'd rather have a smaller birfield than a smaller ring and pinion.
All 5 of my tires/wheels are new. I work for Bridgestone, so I got my stuff fairly cheap. Employees get a great deal. I went with 315 MTs for 2 reasons: I got them for $123/ea (37s were $245/ea), and I wanted it to fit in the garage (7’ doors).
When we picked up the truck after importing, it had 7” of lift and 37s (measured at 36.5”). I had to air down and add about 500lbs to get it to fit in the garage.
With my current suspension (4” Slee med springs) I have only about 1” of door clearance.
I fixed the s***tybilt winch the PO broke... $3K on lights and 500 winch. I'm hoping to get my Yaesu 2980 installed tomorrow.
DesertLake
SILVER Star
Both my actuators were seized when I got the axles.Got the big girl tore down today. Found that I chipped 2 teeth on the front ring, no damage to the rear ring
Once I got them apart I soaked the sliding parts in evaporust for a day or two, there were a few deep pits but enough smooth surface to work.
Lubed everything with dielectric grease.
I have a box I built to simulate the ECU so you can work the actuator and make sure it's clocked right at your bench, let me know if you'd like to borrow it.
Got my radio installed today. This isn't the final install, but I wanted it up for tomorrow's little run and for the camping trip. I cut a relief in the shabby center console, sanded, cleaned, and shot it with adhesion promoter and textured topcoat while I had it out. I am getting the center consoles from Delta VS soonish and will probably get the FTM-400DR installed instead. But this will be more than enough for club runs.
I'll be installing my sPOD and ARB compressor on a custom mount next week, then the ham will run through the sPOD instead of directly to the battery.
@reklund5 and I will be digging deep into the electronics at that point to sort out all the shoddy work the POs did over the years.
I'll be installing my sPOD and ARB compressor on a custom mount next week, then the ham will run through the sPOD instead of directly to the battery.
@reklund5 and I will be digging deep into the electronics at that point to sort out all the shoddy work the POs did over the years.
DesertLake
SILVER Star
Engine and axles oil change. Knuckles are still more grease than oil. Diff magnets came out clean. Good to go.
rusty_tlc
Dain Bramaged Member
Got the front springs almost in thanks to @DesertLake loaning me a floor jack. I'm not at all happy about the state of the axle u-bolts so I will be visiting Washoe Metal Fab to get a new set made next week. That will be the front springs done.
lelandEOD
SILVER Star
Just curious; why are you running your radio through a SPOD? I thought all radio manufacturers recommended connecting the positive and negative directly to the car barrery?
The sPOD has capacity for up to 80 amps so I don't think it will hurt anything and it will make for a cleaner install than having multiple things clamped to the battery leads. But this isn't all decided 100% and it may end up coming off the battery permanently.
DesertLake
SILVER Star
As long as the SPOD and the lines feeding it are beefy enough, your radio will be fine. If you have other sensitive equipment on the SPOD, for example an audio amp, then you've introduced a way for the 80W HAM radio to interfere with the audio amp. You can ad filters and whatnot, but you reach a point where it's easier to just go back to powering off the battery.
One other thing to note, in general you don't want to create a big loop antenna with your HAM radio power leads. Keep the +12V and GND wires close together, all the way back through the SPOD, and ideally it should grab its ground from the battery not the chassis for the same reason.
Sometimes violating the above works just fine, but if you have trouble those are the first places to look.
Well I cleaned up the goat today and decided I'd hit the spare wheel with the dip dissolver I had left over from the Bronco... I am doubling down on my hatred for Plasti-Dip. Dumbest product ever made.
No pictures, but I got the old aftermarket knuckle dragging exhaust that she came with from Japan, off. I’ll upload a picture to give everyone an idea of how low it was to the ground.
Started to fab the new exhaust. I’m staying inside the frame rails. It’s a little tight having the factory fridge console. The lines run right where I need the pipe to go. Had to cut a couple welds and readjust my routing. I’ve got the downpipe and flex pipe in. I have also cut a bunch of 7* and 15* pie cuts. I wish I had a tig!! Going over the trans cross member, and around the tcase, with 3” is going to be fun. I’m only using mild steel for this exhaust. In the future, when I have settled on my routing, I will redo it with stainless. I’m staying straight piped for now too! I wish I could upload a quick video of what it sounded like when I dropped the muffler back. Really nice!
I figure that I have roughly 100 hours of work left, if the kids leave me alone, so maybe more like 125+ hours.
I sent my axle parts wishlist to Kurt @ Cruiser Outfitters, so I’m hoping to hear from him in the morning. Once I get that all ordered, I can plan out a timeline to get steps completed.
Started to fab the new exhaust. I’m staying inside the frame rails. It’s a little tight having the factory fridge console. The lines run right where I need the pipe to go. Had to cut a couple welds and readjust my routing. I’ve got the downpipe and flex pipe in. I have also cut a bunch of 7* and 15* pie cuts. I wish I had a tig!! Going over the trans cross member, and around the tcase, with 3” is going to be fun. I’m only using mild steel for this exhaust. In the future, when I have settled on my routing, I will redo it with stainless. I’m staying straight piped for now too! I wish I could upload a quick video of what it sounded like when I dropped the muffler back. Really nice!
I figure that I have roughly 100 hours of work left, if the kids leave me alone, so maybe more like 125+ hours.
I sent my axle parts wishlist to Kurt @ Cruiser Outfitters, so I’m hoping to hear from him in the morning. Once I get that all ordered, I can plan out a timeline to get steps completed.