Build What did you do with your cruiser today?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

rusty_tlc said:
Mine has started going off occasionally when I open the doors with the remote. What little research I've done says removing the security system from the 100 series is unpossible.
Click to expand...
Yikes. Mine had the lock control harness corroded when I first got it due to a windshield leak. I fixed it up, but it started to fail again and really isn't worth it. I think I could bypass the ignition kill in a pinch, but in the end car alarms are for cities and I don't drive this thing in one. If I'm off hiking I'm too far away for the alarm to help.
 
rusty_tlc said:
Mine has started going off occasionally when I open the doors with the remote. What little research I've done says removing the security system from the 100 series is unpossible.
Click to expand...
So this was similar to the problem that I was having with mine. Attempting to enter the vehicle after the alarm had been armed, regardless of using keyfob or physical key, would set off the alarm.
What I found to be MY FIX was cleaning the sensors for the door locks on the Drivers and passenger door lock cylinders. Mainly the drivers seems to be the culprit (knock on wood). I cleaned mine about 4wks ago with some electrical contact cleaner after removing door handle and separating the sensor from the door lock cylinder. Then I put a good schmear of white lithium grease on the sensor ring and then on the back side of the cylinder. Cleaned the cylinder separately with 3-in-1 lock cleaner and lube.
 
gregnash said:
So this was similar to the problem that I was having with mine. Attempting to enter the vehicle after the alarm had been armed, regardless of using keyfob or physical key, would set off the alarm.
What I found to be MY FIX was cleaning the sensors for the door locks on the Drivers and passenger door lock cylinders. Mainly the drivers seems to be the culprit (knock on wood). I cleaned mine about 4wks ago with some electrical contact cleaner after removing door handle and separating the sensor from the door lock cylinder. Then I put a good schmear of white lithium grease on the sensor ring and then on the back side of the cylinder. Cleaned the cylinder separately with 3-in-1 lock cleaner and lube.
Click to expand...
When it gets to really annoying I'll give that a try.
 
Spent 2 hours power washing and scrubbing mud from underneath the car.
Going to grease the driveshafts tomorrow followed by fluid film on the entire undercarriage.
 
Tons of progress so far this weekend. More to come tomorrow mostly prep for other things in the near future.

PXL_20210123_235554405.webp


PXL_20210123_235545184.webp


140583176_464885324916148_4424466938104726524_n.webp


I'll be flipping the rear springs or replacing them instead of doing the 2-inch push in the rear. I don't wanna do more body work! And I the push will make the aux tank I got unusable. So I'll live with just the 2-inch push up front.
 
Yesterday I fired up the 40 and was going to make a gas run, stalled it while it was cold. Paid hell getting it started again, the starter solenoid appears to be done. I had a nice gear reduction started the Shawn gave me when he did his SBC swap, but the existing starter wire is to short to reach the lug. Finally got Ol Rusty started and parked in an out of the way location. Going to try getting it inside the garage again next weekend.
Just added to the To-Do list this week.:mad:
 
rusty_tlc said:
Yesterday I fired up the 40 and was going to make a gas run, stalled it while it was cold. Paid hell getting it started again, the starter solenoid appears to be done. I had a nice gear reduction started the Shawn gave me when he did his SBC swap, but the existing starter wire is to short to reach the lug. Finally got Ol Rusty started and parked in an out of the way location. Going to try getting it inside the garage again next weekend.
Just added to the To-Do list this week.:mad:
Click to expand...
Old vehicle problems!
 
I got the 62 out and finally decided to try the Rodney party trick on the transmission. It's been failing to engage reverse and going into neutral when in 2nd gear randomly. Took it out and abused it thoroughly. It did lots of weird things, lost reverse totally a few times. I kept at it, shifting into park at various speeds, then forcing it to downshift and upshift at full throttle until it no longer failed to engage reverse and began shifting like it should. Took it for a few drag races through the gears and noticed it was shifting way early. Adjusted the t.v. cable a ton, now it shifts firm like it should and revs out in every gear like it should. Reverse now engages solidly, every time and so far, it hasn't dropped out of 2nd gear again yet.

Big test will be cold start and drive. It was always worse when cold. Been that way since I got it but started really having issues the last two trips out.

With 301k miles on it, it has lived well beyond what it should have. Just thought I'd try the trick before I yanked it apart to find out the governor and valve body we're sticking and the rest was still functional.
 
WILLD420 said:
I got the 62 out and finally decided to try the Rodney party trick on the transmission. It's been failing to engage reverse and going into neutral when in 2nd gear randomly. Took it out and abused it thoroughly. It did lots of weird things, lost reverse totally a few times. I kept at it, shifting into park at various speeds, then forcing it to downshift and upshift at full throttle until it no longer failed to engage reverse and began shifting like it should. Took it for a few drag races through the gears and noticed it was shifting way early. Adjusted the t.v. cable a ton, now it shifts firm like it should and revs out in every gear like it should. Reverse now engages solidly, every time and so far, it hasn't dropped out of 2nd gear again yet.

Big test will be cold start and drive. It was always worse when cold. Been that way since I got it but started really having issues the last two trips out.

With 301k miles on it, it has lived well beyond what it should have. Just thought I'd try the trick before I yanked it apart to find out the governor and valve body we're sticking and the rest was still functional.
Click to expand...

That monster would be awesome with an H55 and split case... Cust sayin! ;)
 
I really like the Geolanders on the 100, they have been performing beyond expectations for the last couple of days. Typically I drop tire pressure a few pounds in this kind of weather, no need with these tires. For those not "In the Valley" we got hit way harder than Carson or Reno. I was basically pushing snow from my house all the way to Eastlake yesterday. Today was a bit better but still deep, with slush underneath. No troubles at all. I give the tire 👍👍
 
I bought a set of the Patagonia M/T's last year. They are not on my Toyota, but they are impressive in the snow and very decent on ice. I have been driving all over in 2wd just to see how far I can push them. So far, I am impressed.
 
WILLD420 said:
I bought a set of the Patagonia M/T's last year. They are not on my Toyota, but they are impressive in the snow and very decent on ice. I have been driving all over in 2wd just to see how far I can push them. So far, I am impressed.
Click to expand...

I have had them on the Bronco for a couple of years and I love them for the same reasons. In fact I decided to get a set of their A/T R tires for my F150 and have done about 5K miles towing, hauling, road tripping and some mild offroad. They have also impressed.

Icon.webp


IMG_20200529_141230.webp


I got the Interco Swamper wheels and the 35x12.5xR17 for less than a set of BFG KO2s, and I got the steel wheels and 33-inch M/Ts (five of each) for less than the BFG KM3s. I'd put them on the 40 except I got a set of KM2s for free so maybe after I wear those out.
 
Not cruiser related but...
I was working on a 60's vintage Hasqvarna Viking Sewing machine today and discovered it has a low range. How cool is a sewing machine with low range?
 
I've not had time to work on anything! In fact this week is the first vacation time I've taken since October (I worked straight through Christmas and New Year's weeks) and I'm catching up on all those things that keep the house from collapsing or being repossessed.

In any case I'm starting to worry about the 1FZ I built 6 years ago. When cold cranking it seems like one cylinder may crank a little faster - which made me think about compression. I had my mechanic do a compression check, and he measured 130, 140, 150, 140, 150, 150. Hmm. Would I hear that 130 on #1 in how the starter cranks? I wish I had checked compression 6 years ago. I was hoping to replace the tires this winter (the MTRs are great fun everywhere except roads) and now I'm not sure what I want to do.
 
What is the standard compression range Will? Seems like they are all within a decent percentage of one another which would make things "healthy" but then again I don't know what stock compression is on the 1FZ.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom