What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend?

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leonard_nemoy said:
Yeah my body lift was more than 1". I am not sure how the height could cause the puck to crack the body above the puck. These pucks were 2" tall and 3" wide. This is the only picture I could fine but the sheet metal above this puck was all cracked and busted. I had to weld all the cracks, grind the welds flat, and than I reinforced the area with a new piece of sheet metal.

View attachment 2626706

This is what happened to the body lift with grade 8 hardware when I totalled her last year. The impact was strong enough to badly bend the frame. I bet a shorter body lift would have held up a lot better in this wreck. This is why tall body lifts are bad....

View attachment 2626709
Click to expand...
I can tell you why that body mount cracked and came apart. That's the body mount thats right over the exhaust on the passenger side. It gets incredibly hot and that metal can get brittle and fatigue faster because of the two decades of heat/cool cycles. Besides that, the rubber bushing on the bottom of that puck is cooked and crushed on one side. So as that side of the body lift collapsed on the melted rubber it put leverage on the bolt and washer on the inside of the truck. You can see that that's the direction that it tore through as well.
 
Box Rocket said:
I can tell you why that body mount cracked and came apart. That's the body mount thats right over the exhaust on the passenger side. It gets incredibly hot and that metal can get brittle and fatigue faster because of the two decades of heat/cool cycles. Besides that, the rubber bushing on the bottom of that puck is cooked and crushed on one side. So as that side of the body lift collapsed on the melted rubber it put leverage on the bolt and washer on the inside of the truck. You can see that that's the direction that it tore through as well.
Click to expand...
I am sure that had something to do with it. But what about the two front mounts and the one under the passenger foot area.... All 4 in the front got jacked up.... It was a bad wreck.
 
Steering column seal was a little past due lol
easy swap
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Got a LOT done over the last couple of weekends.

What started with a 2"-2.5" Dobinsons lift turned into...
- welding in Eimkeith's Radius Arm Mounts for caster correction
- welding in Eimkeith's rear panhard correction kit
- welding in Slee's DIY front adjustable panhard bar kit
- DIY swaybar drop front/rear
- extended OEM brake lines
- temporarily adjusted both knuckle bearings to take some slop out of the wheels until I can find a rebuild kit with Koyo bearings
- I need to find a solution for the LSPV ASAP

After that was done, I obviously needed to go to 35's, so I separately sourced used rims and tires. This is the end result after sandblasting and painting the rims myself over the last couple of days. These make the 285/75/16 BFG's on factory wheels look tiny!
- ProComp La Paz 17"x8.5" w/4.75" backspacing
- Falken Wildpeak MT01 35x12.5x17

I think this will be the perfect amount of lift without too many added issues. We'll see how the post caster correction numbers look tomorrow to compare.

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20210326_185533.webp
 
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working on sound deadening i have stripped out the carpet and seats
988FDCE9-5099-4227-8BAC-C9B86DF23A6E.webp

read all the threads, just wondering what the contemporary view is on removing the tar based factory deadening. worth the effort or no? im thinking i start off trying a small part with the dry ice method and if its too hard give up and just lay my pingjing deadener over the top.

also wondering what the best method is to remove the foam in the rear quarter panels? i have foam cell to replace over the top of deadener in that area.

finally unsure about a few of the wires hanging about that I have discovered when removing the carpet.
particularly this box
19DD1131-35E3-427C-B9A1-29827510661E.webp


these two wires (one has a small jack - looks like audio and the other has what looks like a small bulb)
4CDD66D4-BE8C-4374-B9EA-915C873090B4.webp


both of the above are in the drivers footwell and this last is coming off the handbrake but doesnt go anywhere
B1F8AF52-1218-4D85-A361-9F194758F961.webp


any help is appreciated
 
noided80 said:
working on sound deadening i have stripped out the carpet and seats
View attachment 2627633
read all the threads, just wondering what the contemporary view is on removing the tar based factory deadening. worth the effort or no? im thinking i start off trying a small part with the dry ice method and if its too hard give up and just lay my pingjing deadener over the top.

also wondering what the best method is to remove the foam in the rear quarter panels? i have foam cell to replace over the top of deadener in that area.

finally unsure about a few of the wires hanging about that I have discovered when removing the carpet.
particularly this box
View attachment 2627634

these two wires (one has a small jack - looks like audio and the other has what looks like a small bulb)
View attachment 2627635

both of the above are in the drivers footwell and this last is coming off the handbrake but doesnt go anywhere
View attachment 2627636

any help is appreciated
Click to expand...
The weird box looks like a cheap keyfob central locking thingy, with some sirene wires coming from it
 
noided80 said:
working on sound deadening i have stripped out the carpet and seats
View attachment 2627633
read all the threads, just wondering what the contemporary view is on removing the tar based factory deadening. worth the effort or no? im thinking i start off trying a small part with the dry ice method and if its too hard give up and just lay my pingjing deadener over the top.

also wondering what the best method is to remove the foam in the rear quarter panels? i have foam cell to replace over the top of deadener in that area.

finally unsure about a few of the wires hanging about that I have discovered when removing the carpet.
particularly this box
View attachment 2627634

these two wires (one has a small jack - looks like audio and the other has what looks like a small bulb)
View attachment 2627635

both of the above are in the drivers footwell and this last is coming off the handbrake but doesnt go anywhere
View attachment 2627636

any help is appreciated
Click to expand...

X2 on that being an aftermarket alarm. The black wire hanging down from the box is its antenna. If you have a wire tapped in but going nowhere, just remove it and insulate the tapped area.
 
Added the power windows without key mod and had my daughter help me with the front sway bar disconnect from @LandCruiserPhil.

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A while back, learned that my CDL wasn't engaging in 4low. Did the 7 pin mod months and all lights came on, but actually tested it today and it works 😁

Then added a battery cable clamp from @NLXTACY so I can look perdy 💁

20210326_181850.jpg
 
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Got out on some local trails for a shakedown ride after my first big round of baseline work was wrapped up. The rig drove great, dirt was fantastic and not too many people out today even though it was a perfect Spring day.

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junglehaole said:
Im going ham getting my first FJ80 on solid footing. I got it for $2300 on the big island (a steal! Or so I thought). 1992 with 313k on the chassis, 160k on the engine, and a ton of deferred maintenance. Almost no rust whatsoever though—a big deal in Hawaii.

this week:
-Exchanged the break fluid and bled the system of air
-replaced drum brake shoes.
It stops when i need it to now.

-installed new Sony xav-1000 sterand speakers. Probably most important upgrade to my joy of just driving the beast. there were no brackets, so first I ordered a pair from partsouq that actually fit an fj62, then got the right set this past week.

-replaced one o2 sensor—the blown one. Truck runs way better; engine seemed to be misfiring before. Waiting on replacement bolts before trying the other.

-braced what’s left of a cat shield and rattling exhaust parts with steel hose clamps.

-twice cleaned heater blower that filled with junk from the outside and from within the truck and spun like a banshee

-greased the dry, clicking knuckles

-at this very moment, vacuuming and detailing interior

next
-Full tune up kit, filters, spark plugs and wires
-2nd o2 sensor
-when I get replacement plugs and washers—drain and fill transfer case, diffs, transmission.
-replace vacuum hoses
-replace random hoses and tubes capped or Jerry rigged in engine by PO

near plans:
Raptor line it. Current paint is awful.
rebuild knuckles and replace birfs if clicking doesn’t get any better after filling with grease

longer term, if the truck proves to be reliable after maintenance: lift, 35s, armor.

big island has a lot of gnarly roads. I live a couple miles up a 4wd road, so I kinda get to wheel a little bit everyday in the meantime.

also next week:
Buying a 1993 with 211k from a mechanic who did a ton of work on it for a girlfriend: rebuilt trans, serviced engine, rebuilt front axle, new radiator (had a small leak he says). They’ve been over for a while, so he just wants it gone because he’s not fond of the memory. All it needs is the interior put back together and the trans solenoids replaced (thank you ih8mud for helping me figure that one out!) 🤪🤙🏼
and a scrub. Photo attached.

The 80 addiction is real.

View attachment 2622286
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Awesome! Need to start a Cruiser Club on the Big Island. Love wheeling mine.
 
Jefe23 said:
Got a LOT done over the last couple of weekends.

What started with a 2"-2.5" Dobinsons lift turned into...
- welding in Eimkeith's Radius Arm Mounts for caster correction
- welding in Eimkeith's rear panhard correction kit
- welding in Slee's DIY front adjustable panhard bar kit
- DIY swaybar drop front/rear
- extended OEM brake lines
- temporarily adjusted both knuckle bearings to take some slop out of the wheels until I can find a rebuild kit with Koyo bearings
- I need to find a solution for the LSPV ASAP

After that was done, I obviously needed to go to 35's, so I separately sourced used rims and tires. This is the end result after sandblasting and painting the rims myself over the last couple of days. These make the 285/75/16 BFG's on factory wheels look tiny!
- ProComp La Paz 17"x8.5" w/4.75" backspacing
- Falken Wildpeak MT01 35x12.5x17

I think this will be the perfect amount of lift without too many added issues. We'll see how the post caster correction numbers look tomorrow to compare.

View attachment 2627568

View attachment 2627569

View attachment 2627577
Click to expand...
I decided to replace my LSPV and rebuild the actuating lever assembly due to insurance concerns. If my ABS ever gives up I'll likely remove everything, but while relatively cheap parts for the braking system are still available I'd rather keep the system in stock configuration.

Everything was available on Partsouq.

PXL_20201116_005425848.webp
 
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