What Did You Do With Your 120 Today? (11 Viewers)

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I've been fighting the steering recently and thought the ps pump finally went out. After I replaced the pump, I noticed a small improvement, but it was still pretty tough to turn. The culprit ended up being the intermediate steering shaft. One of the axis on the shafts u-joint was totally seized up. Swapped it out (after fighting it for way too long) and my steering went back to normal. If you plan on doing this job, have an air hammer handy and some mapp gas if you live in the rust belt.

20230814_025348.jpg
 
NJGX said:
I've been fighting the steering recently and thought the ps pump finally went out. After I replaced the pump, I noticed a small improvement, but it was still pretty tough to turn. The culprit ended up being the intermediate steering shaft. One of the axis on the shafts u-joint was totally seized up. Swapped it out (after fighting it for way too long) and my steering went back to normal. If you plan on doing this job, have an air hammer handy and some mapp gas if you live in the rust belt.
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How did you get it off on the upstream/wheel side? Is that where you used heat? I have a small propane torch, but do not have a larger oxy/acetylene torch. I've pulled the shaft off at the downstream (steering rack) side before to replace the rack and it was a PITA. Air hammer did the trick but it was not easy.

The upstream side looks to be seized onto the steering shaft protruding from the firewall on my rig. There is rust clearly visible on the shaft coming out of the firewall, similar to yours. I also have hard steering despite a good pump and rack and I 100% know it is the shaft. I'm hesitant to tackle this job but am tired of the hard steering - it was a pain on Saturday when I was wheeling the rig.
 
Rednexus said:
How did you get it off on the upstream/wheel side? Is that where you used heat? I have a small propane torch, but do not have a larger oxy/acetylene torch. I've pulled the shaft off at the downstream (steering rack) side before to replace the rack and it was a PITA. Air hammer did the trick but it was not easy.

The upstream side looks to be seized onto the steering shaft protruding from the firewall on my rig. There is rust clearly visible on the shaft coming out of the firewall, similar to yours. I also have hard steering despite a good pump and rack and I 100% know it is the shaft. I'm hesitant to tackle this job but am tired of the hard steering - it was a pain on Saturday when I was wheeling the rig.
Click to expand...
A carefully aimed MAPP gas torch got it free after what seemed like 1hr+ of manual hammering.

I got the 2 12mm retaining bolts free with the steering wheel straight, then turned it to the driver's side about 1/4 turn until it locked itself. This aimed the seams in the collar right at me through the fender well gap. I went to town with a chisel and eventually pry bar to open the collar as much as possible.

Once the collar was theoretically no longer clamping the splines, I hit it with the torch. A lot.. I made sure to keep the piece nice and hot as I worked every angle possible to get it to slide up the steering column shaft.

The collar eventually cleared the intermediate shaft and I was able to fully remove it from the steering column splines. Getting it off only took a few hits since I could smack it from the top of the engine bay with no obstructions.

I made sure to antiseize the collar pretty good before reinstalling on the new intermediate shaft. I actually had a harder time getting the lower part of the shaft off the rack side even though the top was totally free due to fatigue, no clear shots, and no air hammer. Heat was my friend here too. Penetrating oil didn't do anything besides make my garage smokey.
 
NJGX said:
A carefully aimed MAPP gas torch got it free after what seemed like 1hr+ of manual hammering.

I got the 2 12mm retaining bolts free with the steering wheel straight, then turned it to the driver's side about 1/4 turn until it locked itself. This aimed the seams in the collar right at me through the fender well gap. I went to town with a chisel and eventually pry bar to open the collar as much as possible.

Once the collar was theoretically no longer clamping the splines, I hit it with the torch. A lot.. I made sure to keep the piece nice and hot as I worked every angle possible to get it to slide up the steering column shaft.

The collar eventually cleared the intermediate shaft and I was able to fully remove it from the steering column splines. Getting it off only took a few hits since I could smack it from the top of the engine bay with no obstructions.

I made sure to antiseize the collar pretty good before reinstalling on the new intermediate shaft. I actually had a harder time getting the lower part of the shaft off the rack side even though the top was totally free due to fatigue, no clear shots, and no air hammer. Heat was my friend here too. Penetrating oil didn't do anything besides make my garage smokey.
Click to expand...
Thanks! I will tackle this in the coming months.
 
My 90k mile '03 GX needed shocks, so I took that as an opportunity to do a little upgrading. I removed/replaced the rear air suspension with OME 895 springs and MetalTech airbag conversion kit, replaced rear shocks with Bilstein 5160's and fronts with Bilstein 6112's with their 700 lb springs. Wheels/tires were replaced with Method 316 17x8.5 0 offset and Falken Wildpeak AT3W 285/70. Lastly, I finally got around to removing the running boards. Looks and drives like a different vehicle. Today it's in getting new cv boots.

GX no running boards.jpg
 
Installed a pedal commander. Figured I'd see.. I've read all the arguments for and against it..
 
Installed the Nolathane 24mm rear sway bar and Super Pro end links. Makes a big difference going around corners and roundabouts. I also installed the 30mm Nolathane front sway bar. I didn't realize the factory front was already 30mm.

PXL_20230815_193542585~2.jpg
 
Last edited:
yeos said:
Installed the Nolathane 24mm rear sway bar and Super Pro end links. Makes a big difference going around corners and roundabouts. I also installed the 30mm Nolathane front sway bar. I didn't realize the factory front was already 30mm.

View attachment 3404144
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I took out the front and I put a Nolathane 24 in the rear a few weeks ago.. so far I like it..Doing so though, illuminated bump steer from the panhard angle being off so now there's that.. boltheads more then 2.5" off.
 
My experience with those superpro links was not good. They lasted one year and the rubber boots were trashed. Got some 4Runner links off rock auto for $25 a piece and they have been great. Also have superpro LCA which have been great but those links…look good I guess
 
Sixto Lezcano said:
My experience with those superpro links was not good. They lasted one year and the rubber boots were trashed. Got some 4Runner links off rock auto for $25 a piece and they have been great. Also have superpro LCA which have been great but those links…look good I guess
Click to expand...
I didn't use Superpro, I used Overland customs..

20230819_194041.jpg
 
Sixto Lezcano said:
My experience with those superpro links was not good. They lasted one year and the rubber boots were trashed. Got some 4Runner links off rock auto for $25 a piece and they have been great. Also have superpro LCA which have been great but those links…look good I guess
Click to expand...

There wasn't a lot to choose from and I didn't want to use anything with spherical bearings so I ended up with the super pros. Hopefully they last longer than yours did. I was using the extended 4runner links with the factory rear bar prior to upgrading.
 
Just FYI, if you have access to a welder its SUPER easy to diy adjustable links. Cut the OEM link, add thread couplers to each end and weld it to the link, then put a piece of allthread in the middle. This cost me <$100.
20210731_200703.jpg
 
drowzyGX said:
Installed a new battery: Odyssey group 34R AGM. Got a voltage booster on the way. Gonna run the booster until the weather cools down, and I can install a beefier alternator + big 3.
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I have the same battery and love it. Haven't needed the voltage booster just yet (I've checked it a few times and it's been 900-1000 CCA) but I might install one at a later date as well, just to be able to recharge the AGM via the alternator if it ever were to become discharged totally.
 
Rednexus said:
I have the same battery and love it. Haven't needed the voltage booster just yet (I've checked it a few times and it's been 900-1000 CCA) but I might install one at a later date as well, just to be able to recharge the AGM via the alternator if it ever were to become discharged totally.
Click to expand...
Interesting, I thought the 34Rs were just 850cca?
 
BigNick said:
Interesting, I thought the 34Rs were just 850cca?
Click to expand...
They are but must be underrated. Mine has hit 1000 CCA on my tester before when I've checked the charge. I haven't checked it yet in cold weather conditions.
 
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