I don't know but can certainly try to find out. Can this be identified easily on the carb and regardless with "vast difference" can I assume OEM is preferred?
What causes carb float bowl to drain
- Thread starter chichiflys
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I don't know but can certainly try to find out. Can this be identified easily on the carb and regardless with "vast difference" can I assume OEM is preferred?
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
Yes, oem is leather and aftermarket is rubber. Leather moves more freely; could be its sticking initially (I think, others might disagree).
And no it’s not easily discernible, you’d need to take the top section (the air horn) off the carb to get a visual. The leather is light in color, obvious leather material. And the rubber is black, obvious rubber. I have a photo of the two side by side somewhere in my earlier build thread.
And no it’s not easily discernible, you’d need to take the top section (the air horn) off the carb to get a visual. The leather is light in color, obvious leather material. And the rubber is black, obvious rubber. I have a photo of the two side by side somewhere in my earlier build thread.
Super thx, will check that out.
Guessing a faulty or sticking ACC pump would mean pumping the pedal as component of my pre-start foreplay ritual would not work so well correct? This is no issue at present, two or three pumps starts it right up after sitting cold. Problem is it dies immediately as a result of nothing left in the float bowl. Could this part have any affect on fuel evaporation in the bowl?
Last edited:
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
Yeah honestly the bowl isn’t going to stay full esp after 24+ hours. I can run my truck and go back out a few hours later and see some fuel in the sight window but only some, not middle where it is while truck is running. After 24 you might have to jiggle the truck side to side to see a slight splash up from below the window. Idk, your dealing w/ a 30 year old truck. 30 year old metals that have been cooked and cooled how many times? I sorta think you might have high expectations. She’s doing the best she can from the sounds of it. Just stroke her a little more and give her a break. Kinda like an old horse....
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
So you’ve tried the method @OSS explained? Prime it (just turn the key, no foot on pedal) a handful of times and get out and look... is fuel at the middle? Then go back and start her up. Will she THEN stall after that?
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
I would ‘think’ if she stalls after you see fuel come up halfway from priming, my hunch is your pump is insufficient in its delivery. Anyone else can chime in and call me wrong.
Yes no issue at all with that method. starts right as rain after priming up to the site window. Guess I'm just being naive thinking I would get better fuel retention with 2017 Kalifornia gas in this old truck. I haven't owned an 80's yota since the mid 90's and never had this issue with carbonated engines from this era. Maybe I've got a selective memory
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
Or higher expectations than you realize.
It’s funny. A number of years ago I came across a few folks who said it like it is... it’s a 30 year old truck. She’s going to creak, groan, whistle, rattle, sputter, tell you to F off at least once in awhile, ect. Accept her for what she is and just enjoy the ride for being more unique than most vehicles on the road nowadays.
It’s funny. A number of years ago I came across a few folks who said it like it is... it’s a 30 year old truck. She’s going to creak, groan, whistle, rattle, sputter, tell you to F off at least once in awhile, ect. Accept her for what she is and just enjoy the ride for being more unique than most vehicles on the road nowadays.
My '87 60 was the best starting vehicle I've owned. It would fire up quicker than any of my 62's and would hold fuel for a week without issue. It was desmogged with a mid 70's 2F carb and matching older points distributor, which was supplemented with an MSD ignition box. The carb fan was inop but I never had vapor lock.
First revolution start in warm weather. A bit more in NH cold with headers and no heat riser. Every single time.
Maybe gas has changed in 3 years or is worse in CA. I'm not a carb expert but I don't think it's asking too much from an old truck. Cranking and cranking without oil pressure and wearing out the accel pump and linkage isn't doing your truck any favors.
First revolution start in warm weather. A bit more in NH cold with headers and no heat riser. Every single time.
Maybe gas has changed in 3 years or is worse in CA. I'm not a carb expert but I don't think it's asking too much from an old truck. Cranking and cranking without oil pressure and wearing out the accel pump and linkage isn't doing your truck any favors.
OSS, carb fan was disconnected. Thx for the tip. Upon connecting it I realized it’s got shot bearings. It works and shuts off after manifold is down in temp but squawks and bearing area is toasty hot after 10 min running. Hopefully after I get that sorted I’ll have a little less evap from less prolonged heat.
Reviving and old thread:
1984 FJ60 purchased in Feb of this year
I noticed hard starting (turning over for 10-20 seconds) shortly after the purchase.
Since purchase I have visually inspected the fuel line from tank to carb (looks ok), replaced all the vacuum line, replaced the fuel filter, distributor, plugs and wires and replaced the carb with an OEM rebuilt and tuned to the best of my novel abilities, maximizing my vacuum around 14. I know this is low compared to others on this forum.
Despite this, the vehicle runs pretty well at the lower end RPM, but with any sustained load (uphill for 10 seconds or so at 45mph or more) she spits and sputters and feels like she’s starved for fuel. If I let off the pedal and allow some pause before depressing again I can pick up where I left off.
Because of this I checked the fuel level in the carb window and noticed sustained bubbling with the engine off.
Next troubleshooting steps? I’m thinking I may need a new fuel pump because of the high load sputtering but I’m not sure how to begin with the bubbling bc I’m assuming that means a fuel leak inside the carb.
1984 FJ60 purchased in Feb of this year
I noticed hard starting (turning over for 10-20 seconds) shortly after the purchase.
Since purchase I have visually inspected the fuel line from tank to carb (looks ok), replaced all the vacuum line, replaced the fuel filter, distributor, plugs and wires and replaced the carb with an OEM rebuilt and tuned to the best of my novel abilities, maximizing my vacuum around 14. I know this is low compared to others on this forum.
Despite this, the vehicle runs pretty well at the lower end RPM, but with any sustained load (uphill for 10 seconds or so at 45mph or more) she spits and sputters and feels like she’s starved for fuel. If I let off the pedal and allow some pause before depressing again I can pick up where I left off.
Because of this I checked the fuel level in the carb window and noticed sustained bubbling with the engine off.
Next troubleshooting steps? I’m thinking I may need a new fuel pump because of the high load sputtering but I’m not sure how to begin with the bubbling bc I’m assuming that means a fuel leak inside the carb.
Last edited:
stumbling & sputtering when trying to drive up a hill or accelerate is classic fuel starvation. The engine isn't getting the fuel it needs.
This can be caused by a clogged primary fuel filter (the easy one to get at) or the other mini metal mesh filter upstream of the needle valve in the carb (carb cap has to come off to inspect)
or a partially or intermittently blocked main jet in the float bowl or maybe there's crud drifting around inside the float bowl. Or maybe the fuel pump is weak.
What id do (cuz this happened to me too - far from home) is change the fuel filter first because it's easy, then try an "okie rebuild" on the carb (search for method) and if that didn't fix it, consider cleaning out th carb by disassembling it- and if that didn't fix it - replace fuel pump).
Maybe the gas is "boiling" in the float bowl. Is the engine really hot when it happens?
This can be caused by a clogged primary fuel filter (the easy one to get at) or the other mini metal mesh filter upstream of the needle valve in the carb (carb cap has to come off to inspect)
or a partially or intermittently blocked main jet in the float bowl or maybe there's crud drifting around inside the float bowl. Or maybe the fuel pump is weak.
What id do (cuz this happened to me too - far from home) is change the fuel filter first because it's easy, then try an "okie rebuild" on the carb (search for method) and if that didn't fix it, consider cleaning out th carb by disassembling it- and if that didn't fix it - replace fuel pump).
Maybe the gas is "boiling" in the float bowl. Is the engine really hot when it happens?
If the fuel in the carb is boiling there are a few things you can do, but it's mainly the RFG, and even worse with 10% Ethanol.
Is the gas line from the pump to the carb still metal?
Is your carb fan working?
Is the heat shield between carb and manifold intact?
Is something like this what you're seeing?
Is the gas line from the pump to the carb still metal?
Is your carb fan working?
Is the heat shield between carb and manifold intact?
Is something like this what you're seeing?
1. The gas line is still metal and has not been replaced
2. The carb fan is working but I’m not confident that it is cutting on all the time it should. I need to do some reading on this but I was driving on a hot 90+ degree day on the interstate immediately before looking at the carb and the fan did not cut on- probably an issue
3. The heat shielding is intact
4. That is exactly what I’m seeing through the window on the front of the carb.
5. Thank you for the help
Carb Fan will only run when engine is off, pulling cool air in thru the side vents. It won't always run after engine shut off if the thermosensor is still there and working and the wire hasn't burnt. But on a hot day, the fan should run for 10 mins or so after key off. If not, there's fixes.
Vapor lock is a problem with modern sh!t gas.
Is the fuel pump the stock unit on the passenger side of the block? (meaning some PO didn't replace with electric).
Vapor lock is a problem with modern sh!t gas.
Is the fuel pump the stock unit on the passenger side of the block? (meaning some PO didn't replace with electric).
The fuel pump is definitely original. I’ll plan on replacing it and monitoring the carb fan for a few days. What is available for the fuel pump nowadays? I’m gathering the electric pump is inferior. Is OEM still available?
Yes, OE and OEM. OEM is Kyosan brand available from pretty much any MUD Vendor.
Get a new spacer (insulator) also - There's a change in the spacer at 10/84 so be aware depending on mfg date of your truck.
Get a new spacer (insulator) also - There's a change in the spacer at 10/84 so be aware depending on mfg date of your truck.
Replaced the prior fuel pump, see pics below. I don’t think it was OEM as I see no branding whatsoever, unlike the new Kyosan. I also think the prior pump was leaking fuel because there was a dark gasoline smelling liquid coming from where the mechanical motion occurs, but this looks like it was slow. This may also explain why I could get the truck to start and immediately die, then had to prime it by turning it over for 10 seconds or so. As far as I can tell it appears fixed but I’ll post an update in a few days after observing and driving. Appears fixed for now though!
