Land Shark
SILVER Star
Looking soooo good!
What are you working on? (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter matzell
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #862
All done! 4hrs 55 min. This includes my screw up having to take it back apart to find and remove detent ball. That was at least 30 min if not more, I did not keep track, just figured it was part of the job and could happen to anyone? This was total time over several days from pulling into the garage to backing it out. I used air tools where I could and some hand tools on a lift. I did not race but just steady and went by each step in the directions. Look back and put the case back together as you took it apart. It is easier that way. I kept track of time in case I ever do this at work or if I do it as a "paying gig" so I know what to charge.
For you guys doing this on the ground, I would find some longer bolts to hold the cross member about 2 1/2" down so the jack is not in the way. Two bolts would be fine, no need for all eight. You are welcome to borrow my modified 27mm to get the switches out. I used a 3" cutting disc to cut out the metal shield in the case halves. I used a 4.5" flap sander to sand down the boss on the case too. The hardest part was holding the low range gear to torque it down. I used some aluminum jaws in my vise and still had to hold it with one hand and the other on the ratchet. Two people would help this out.
Pressing the gears on and off is the most detailed work and I took my time with this.
A must is a big magnetic tray to keep the nuts and bolts in for the case so you know what bolts go in which holes as they are not all the same!
Happy to answer any questions.
For you guys doing this on the ground, I would find some longer bolts to hold the cross member about 2 1/2" down so the jack is not in the way. Two bolts would be fine, no need for all eight. You are welcome to borrow my modified 27mm to get the switches out. I used a 3" cutting disc to cut out the metal shield in the case halves. I used a 4.5" flap sander to sand down the boss on the case too. The hardest part was holding the low range gear to torque it down. I used some aluminum jaws in my vise and still had to hold it with one hand and the other on the ratchet. Two people would help this out.
Pressing the gears on and off is the most detailed work and I took my time with this.
A must is a big magnetic tray to keep the nuts and bolts in for the case so you know what bolts go in which holes as they are not all the same!
Happy to answer any questions.
Last edited:
Wrench for the sensors on top?
- Thread starter
- #864
FamilyCamper
SILVER Star
Do you have to remove sensors or can you just unplug them? Good note on the longer bolts thank you.
FamilyCamper
SILVER Star
Problem with the 100 is you cant just buy the underdrive gear you also need an 80 series input shaft as they changed designs. thats another $700 kit so im looking at at least $1300 just for a small reduction in the high range. Land Cruiser Transfer Case High Range T-Case Gear Conversion Kit - Fits 1998 - 2007 UZJ100/LX470 Applications (TCG9807HRKIT) - https://cruiserteq.com/land-cruiser-transfer-case-high-range-t-case-gear-conversion-kit-fits-1998-2007-uzj100-lx470-applications-tcg9807hrkit/
This money gets me the 4:1 gears for the 62
- Thread starter
- #867
remove
Land Shark
SILVER Star
Steelies with Falken 285/70’s
- Thread starter
- #869
You forgot to pain them, or did you?
That thing will be completely different before you know it.
Land Shark
SILVER Star
I did primer first then a flat black
doseman
SILVER Star
Love the use of UNO cards!
Land Shark
SILVER Star
Yeah nice trick. 19 for a 17” wheel. Funny I have exactly 19 for each of 5 wheels. Im sure I have lost some over the years
Got my two back doors all buttoned up and fixed the soft areas on the back of the door cards with some thin superglue so the fasteners don’t just fall out. Two more plus some wiring to go
Thanks again to @Landshark for helping me get sound deadening applied inside the doors and @Beach80 for cutting out replacement plastic vapor barriers. They fit perfectly
Land Shark
SILVER Star
Glad to help. It was something I could be good at. haha
FamilyCamper
SILVER Star
Looks great man!
FamilyCamper
SILVER Star
Picked up an awning this week. 270 degree. Looking forward to mounting and eventually figuring out quick release for it. Prinsu says their quick release shouldn't be used w 270 bc of the weight or something. Gotta install tie rod ends on the white 100 and then hoping to start gears later this week or next week on green. Welded tabs to mount a new light bar so need to get it wired in next. Have too many projects that need attention and such little time the past week and a half. Hoping to make some good progress this coming week with the nice weather.
Work schedule changed so little progress made this past week. But did remove all ABS wiring from axles, removed LSPV and replumbed brake lines. Still need to bleed system but waiting on rear springs so who needs brakes. 
Talked to a driveshaft guy out here in Aylett about a new front shaft once suspension is done. Pretty sure I’ll need one before fall crawl.
On to a few pics.
Removed wiring.
Little bracket extension (I like blue) where LSPV was.
Extra room and brake line routing in engine bay. Still need to remount some plugs however.
Talked to a driveshaft guy out here in Aylett about a new front shaft once suspension is done. Pretty sure I’ll need one before fall crawl.
On to a few pics.
Removed wiring.
Little bracket extension (I like blue) where LSPV was.
Extra room and brake line routing in engine bay. Still need to remount some plugs however.
- Thread starter
- #879
If you are talking to Johnny at JDS, he will take care of you on driveshaft. Tell you you know me.
Axle was pushed forward with eimkeith (sp?) mounts. I don’t like how much of shaft is exposed. Will take real measurements once rear springs come in.
@matzell I was talking to his son? Joe and he said he knows you.