of removing ALL of the smog equipment on a FJ 60 and also removing and replacing the carb and distributor with say ones from a 76 or FJ 40. Is this a stupid idea? Convince me it is a bad idea.
John
John
What are the drawbacks
- Thread starter SDFJ60JFK
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ntsqd
technerd
I take it that you have no emissions or vehicle inspection in your area? Word to the wise, if you do remove all of this stuff, put it all in one box and stash it somewhere. The laws that you have now may not be the laws that you have a year or two from now, and all of those parts will cost a great deal more then than they are worth now.
It's still a single carb on a very long intake manifold, so the A/F mixture will vary greatly from the center to the outer cylinders. It is endemic to inline engines that this will happen. The only carb cure is to use more of them. That usually isn't so great for the owner's peace of mind.........
Unless EFI is the Anti-Christ to you, I would look into building a simple EFI system using something like a Mega-Squirt or SDS brain. All of the hard parts (injector sockets, fuel rail, etc.) to build an intake are available either as new parts or from the JY.
It's still a single carb on a very long intake manifold, so the A/F mixture will vary greatly from the center to the outer cylinders. It is endemic to inline engines that this will happen. The only carb cure is to use more of them. That usually isn't so great for the owner's peace of mind.........
Unless EFI is the Anti-Christ to you, I would look into building a simple EFI system using something like a Mega-Squirt or SDS brain. All of the hard parts (injector sockets, fuel rail, etc.) to build an intake are available either as new parts or from the JY.
De-smogging is Common on 60's. People do it alot, but you don't need to replace your carb, you can get it modified.
try doing a search on De-smogg. you'll learn alot!
as far as EFI goes, you can also get a FJ62 a 3FE Fuel injection system modified to go on a 2F search 2FE.
The only Drawbacks I can see, would be legal issues, and potential problems if you don't do the De-smogg correctly.
Good luck!
try doing a search on De-smogg. you'll learn alot!
as far as EFI goes, you can also get a FJ62 a 3FE Fuel injection system modified to go on a 2F search 2FE.
The only Drawbacks I can see, would be legal issues, and potential problems if you don't do the De-smogg correctly.
Good luck!
zuluzeugma
SILVER Star
Run it on Propane. Better on the environment, $2.50 a gallon, runs at any angle, no wires, super simple to tune. Costs between 600-800 to set up though...
Keeping all the smog stuff that you remove is a good idea. Not all the things with rubber hoses under the hood need to go; there are some that you will want to keep. A desmog is not a freebee. You really need to get your carb and distributor set up ($400 plus shipping at Jim C.), get an idler set up where the air pump was (gutted air pump=$0, Jim C. idler $100, SOR Idler $200), get some welding to seal the EGR pipe from the exhaust manifold to the intake manifold, get plugs for the air rail, air cleaner, and exhause pipe. You are going to have about $600 in the deal to get it right with an idler pulley.
You will not get a big jump in mileage (unless you carb is mess up now)
You will not get a big jump in power.
You will eliminate a lot of potential headaches and vacuum leaks
You will have a much simpler system under the hood
You will have more room on the driver's side of the engine compartment
You will not get a big jump in mileage (unless you carb is mess up now)
You will not get a big jump in power.
You will eliminate a lot of potential headaches and vacuum leaks
You will have a much simpler system under the hood
You will have more room on the driver's side of the engine compartment
- Thread starter
- #8
So other than the older stuff is not as good as the newer it seems that the opinion is that it would work. I am not going to this but was really thinking out loud. I have just rebuilt my carb and getting ready to re install.
The propane is out of the question at this point. As is FI.
Thanks John
The propane is out of the question at this point. As is FI.
Thanks John
xxxxxxxxx 100000000000000000000000000 on the propane!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
do a search!
do a search!
desmog
yES IT WORKS THOUSANDS OF TIMES SO FAR. But excuse me for shouting, it works and is far simpler to maintain afterword. However check if smog removal is legal in your area or you may be trying to refit real soon. Just my .02 cents.
yES IT WORKS THOUSANDS OF TIMES SO FAR. But excuse me for shouting, it works and is far simpler to maintain afterword. However check if smog removal is legal in your area or you may be trying to refit real soon. Just my .02 cents.
- Thread starter
- #11
IndianDoc,
Thanks for the reply. I had a 77 FJ 40 That was way easier to deal with the under hood spaghetti. I was thinking about it when I removed the carb for a rebuild on the 60. I do live in a no smog area. But for now the smog stuff will stay. It all seems to work OK and since I am picky I would have to replace the carb and distributor or have Jim C redo mine for the proper desmog.
I also am not so short sighted that I think smog inspection will NEVER come to my neck of the woods. While I am sure that I can make it pass a sniff test I would not be able to pass the visual test with a desmog. I would never get rid of the removed parts. But if I was to have the original carb and distributo redone for the desmog I would just have to have them all resmoged when it became an issue.
But the parts are not getting any cheaper or easier to find. With the FSM it is really just a matter of taking the time to go through and make sure everything is working correctly and in the right place.
John
Thanks for the reply. I had a 77 FJ 40 That was way easier to deal with the under hood spaghetti. I was thinking about it when I removed the carb for a rebuild on the 60. I do live in a no smog area. But for now the smog stuff will stay. It all seems to work OK and since I am picky I would have to replace the carb and distributor or have Jim C redo mine for the proper desmog.
I also am not so short sighted that I think smog inspection will NEVER come to my neck of the woods. While I am sure that I can make it pass a sniff test I would not be able to pass the visual test with a desmog. I would never get rid of the removed parts. But if I was to have the original carb and distributo redone for the desmog I would just have to have them all resmoged when it became an issue.
But the parts are not getting any cheaper or easier to find. With the FSM it is really just a matter of taking the time to go through and make sure everything is working correctly and in the right place.
John
chris777
TLCA member #12444
what kind of range do you get with the propane set up? I mean, what do you do when you need to refill? the places to refill must be few and far between. Especially on road trip.
ntsqd
technerd
I've an accquiantence in B. C., Canada with a propane fueled rig. He's been all over the Western US in it. I asked him the same question and he told me that with a little planning before the trip that it isn't that big of a deal to find fuel. The biggest issue is range. With the poorer mileage of propane you need to carry more. He built his rig with this fact in mind. I'm not sure what is his capacity is, but I'll guess that he's in the range of 40 gallons of fuel.
- Thread starter
- #14
Where are you guys getting the propane conversion kits. ?
What is the cost of the conversion if I do it myself?
John
What is the cost of the conversion if I do it myself?
John
zuluzeugma
SILVER Star
Since I started this by running my mouth off about propane, I guess I'll add in what I've learned. If you search, you should find a couple guys that have set up daily driver 2F's on pane.
1. There are people who are putting together whole propane kits. Propane Conversion Kits is one of the most popular. Heres the catch, he wants about $1050 for the setup. Now, while some of us have bottomless wallets, I don't.
2. Commonly guys who are running propane for the off-road-ability just run an 8 or 10 gal. forklift tank. Generally, you get about 1 hour per gallon when offroad. If you try and buy one of these tanks, you're gana pay between $150-200. However, these tanks are commonly taken out of service for various reason and you can usually pick up a used one at your local propane accesory store or forklift repair shop for $30-50. (I paid $46 for an 8 gal)
3. The tank straps also sell for a lot if purchased new. I went to the scrap yard, found an old forklift and walked out with the tank straps for $3
4. High Pressure line: NO WAY TO CHEAP OUT ON THIS. Do it right. Liquid fuel at (semi) high pressure is not a joke. You should have a local shop that will make this line for you.
5. Evap, Fuel cut, Carb: watch ebay. You can get slammin deals on these pieces indivudually. I paid a total of $50 for all three pieces (this is uncommon, I took my time and found all three pieces on CL from some red-neck)
6. Other lines and fittings arent too expensive but they add up. I'm not totally done yet, but I don't expect to spend over $200 all said and done.
7. On filling up: there are several places locally to fill up and as it has been said, if you plan ahead, you can always be close to a fill up location. If it were me, I would find a huge 30 or 40 gallon tank for a daily driven rig. If you are slightly shady, you can have your local pane company set a 150 or 250 gal. tank at your house and then make your own hose to fill up your tank yourself. Household pane is not road taxed though so its like running "red diesel". The difference is, there is NO WAY to track if someone is using household pane or not. If you buy 250 gal. of pane at once, I think you're paying between $2.15-$2.30 a gal. right now.
When my setup is all put together and running well, I'll write-up a good build-up thread. Hope this helps answer some questions
1. There are people who are putting together whole propane kits. Propane Conversion Kits is one of the most popular. Heres the catch, he wants about $1050 for the setup. Now, while some of us have bottomless wallets, I don't.
2. Commonly guys who are running propane for the off-road-ability just run an 8 or 10 gal. forklift tank. Generally, you get about 1 hour per gallon when offroad. If you try and buy one of these tanks, you're gana pay between $150-200. However, these tanks are commonly taken out of service for various reason and you can usually pick up a used one at your local propane accesory store or forklift repair shop for $30-50. (I paid $46 for an 8 gal)
3. The tank straps also sell for a lot if purchased new. I went to the scrap yard, found an old forklift and walked out with the tank straps for $3
4. High Pressure line: NO WAY TO CHEAP OUT ON THIS. Do it right. Liquid fuel at (semi) high pressure is not a joke. You should have a local shop that will make this line for you.
5. Evap, Fuel cut, Carb: watch ebay. You can get slammin deals on these pieces indivudually. I paid a total of $50 for all three pieces (this is uncommon, I took my time and found all three pieces on CL from some red-neck)
6. Other lines and fittings arent too expensive but they add up. I'm not totally done yet, but I don't expect to spend over $200 all said and done.
7. On filling up: there are several places locally to fill up and as it has been said, if you plan ahead, you can always be close to a fill up location. If it were me, I would find a huge 30 or 40 gallon tank for a daily driven rig. If you are slightly shady, you can have your local pane company set a 150 or 250 gal. tank at your house and then make your own hose to fill up your tank yourself. Household pane is not road taxed though so its like running "red diesel". The difference is, there is NO WAY to track if someone is using household pane or not. If you buy 250 gal. of pane at once, I think you're paying between $2.15-$2.30 a gal. right now.
When my setup is all put together and running well, I'll write-up a good build-up thread. Hope this helps answer some questions
