what are the differences btween F and 2F?

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There are many threads on this subject. To add something LV specific, the "F" engines that came in the 1964-1967 45 wagons are the F135. These are similar to the later "F" engines but not the same.
 
Instead of using a 78 go with a newer 2f, one that actually lets you put the factory power steering bracket on and better hardware for the timing cover/timing gear plate area. Do a search on 2f engines as mentioned above.....you will be surprised on the info avaliable. Mace started a thread not to long ago that has good info.
 
fjwagon said:
Instead of using a 78 go with a newer 2f, one that actually lets you put the factory power steering bracket on and better hardware for the timing cover/timing gear plate area. Do a search on 2f engines as mentioned above.....you will be surprised on the info avaliable. Mace started a thread not to long ago that has good info.

I think this is the thread fjwagon is referencing: https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=87140

Brian
 
fjwagon said:
Instead of using a 78 go with a newer 2f, one that actually lets you put the factory power steering bracket on and better hardware for the timing cover/timing gear plate area. Do a search on 2f engines as mentioned above.....you will be surprised on the info avaliable. Mace started a thread not to long ago that has good info.

when you say newer 3f with PS bracket? my 78 has factory power steering with the factory pump mounted and ready to go. i was planning on using a saginaw gear box tho with the factory pump. when i talked to a guy at SOR, he was very surprised to hear that my 78 had factory PS, he said he thought it only began in 79? is the newer 2f you speak of differnt than mine?
 
AZkick-n40 said:
I think this is the thread fjwagon is referencing: https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=87140

Brian

i checked out the 2f thread, but it was really more technical than i care to get. i was more about how to hot rod a 2f when you rebuild it and which bits and pieces are best put together. i am just thinking that the 2f i have is the same one that would be in a 79 due to the PS being factory. really does not matter much as that is what i have so i will use it. i don't think it need rebuilding, have not done comp. chech yet, b/c it seems to run very well. i was just wondering what simple things can be done to a 2f to improve it as i am putting it in the LV? de-smogging it should help, but i read some where that you can't just start ripping all that crap off without a care b/c it could make the engine slower? i guess you just plug or pull stuff off and see if it runs ok before commiting to the removal of any smog junk.
 
Yes that's it. You may have gotten a 79. I'm surprised myself. The newer 2f's have better hardware but I think it interchange with yours.

merbesfield said:
when you say newer 3f with PS bracket? my 78 has factory power steering with the factory pump mounted and ready to go. i was planning on using a saginaw gear box tho with the factory pump. when i talked to a guy at SOR, he was very surprised to hear that my 78 had factory PS, he said he thought it only began in 79? is the newer 2f you speak of differnt than mine?
 
Yes this thread has some technical stuff in it but it has the pros and cons of different 2f's, 3f and of course the 1f. You have skim through it. Some of the info won't pertain to you.

If that is the case I would replace the gaskets & seals that are hard to get to once the engine is installed.
 
merbesfield said:
i was more about how to hot rod a 2f when you rebuild it and which bits and pieces are best put together.

The F and 2F are tractor motors, not hot rod motors. Put a 383 or a 400 in the LV if you want a hot rod motor...

I've tried to make a 2F into a hot rod motor with disappointing results, including balancing the flywheel and connecting rods, customs racing pistons by Ross Racing pistons (yielded 9.5 to 1 compression), porting and polishing of head, porting and polishing intake, stainless steel customs valves, Mark's off-road carb, headers, 90 lbs valve springs to eliminate valve float, etc.... Wasn't worth the money or my time (except mark's carb).


merbesfield said:
i checked out the 2f thread, but it was really more technical than i care to get.

If you choose not to read technical posts, then you won't learn anything. Search is your friend, use it, use it, use it. I could ask hundreds of questions on MUD, but 9 times out of 10 they are already covered. Your question has been covered in great detail.
 
PVCruiser said:
The F and 2F are tractor motors, not hot rod motors. Put a 383 or a 400 in the LV if you want a hot rod motor...

I've tried to make a 2F into a hot rod motor with disappointing results, including balancing the flywheel and connecting rods, customs racing pistons by Ross Racing pistons (yielded 9.5 to 1 compression), porting and polishing of head, porting and polishing intake, stainless steel customs valves, Mark's off-road carb, headers, 90 lbs valve springs to eliminate valve float, etc.... Wasn't worth the money or my time (except mark's carb).




If you choose not to read technical posts, then you won't learn anything. Search is your friend, use it, use it, use it. I could ask hundreds of questions on MUD, but 9 times out of 10 they are already covered. Your question has been covered in great detail.

PVCruiser, i agree, i have no intention on trying to hotrod my 2F, just get rid of the spagetti crap etc and make a more simple install. if i wanted power which i do i would do a V8, but i am not up to the task or hassel of doing the V8 install properly like Matt of TLC does. so the 2f swap seems more straight forward and should result in a reliable fairly original looking LV. i also agree with the tech aspect, but the prob. with tech is it take hours & hours just to read thru all the bs to get to a maybe answered question when you can post and usually get two or three good helpful direct aswers to your question, then go to the techs for more info. have a great weekend all.
 

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