well, i guess it's time...
- Thread starter fourtrax
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Eric,
Looks like things are going well. I can understand issues with pulling a motor on an 80 with a lift. I had to take front wheels off which ended up helping line up the motor at reinstall. Glad to see you are keeping the tradition of training them young.
Looks like things are going well. I can understand issues with pulling a motor on an 80 with a lift. I had to take front wheels off which ended up helping line up the motor at reinstall. Glad to see you are keeping the tradition of training them young.
congrats on the pull and best of luck getting it back in without a hitch.
Top two transmission bolts are tough to get to but the BL shoul help you a bit there.
Keep up the good work and tell the lil grease monkey i said hello.
so .20 over is compensated with? did you go with OEM oversized piston set ala 4.6? or is that doable with rings?
Top two transmission bolts are tough to get to but the BL shoul help you a bit there.
Keep up the good work and tell the lil grease monkey i said hello.
so .20 over is compensated with? did you go with OEM oversized piston set ala 4.6? or is that doable with rings?
Great Progress! Keep up the momentum!
Prime the motor, change the oil after the first 30 minutes, then again after a few hours, then at 500 and 1500.
Yes, I am paranoid but I've never had a problem with a motor.
Ask the machine shop what kind of oil they want you to break in the motor with.
I always use a special non detergent oil for break in but you should check with what the machinist.
Been doing a lot of reading on that - wound up selecting the Rotella T Dino for my motor. I also ordered a bottle of this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CIO86M/?tag=ihco-20
Basically the Zinc that they can't put in the oil anymore due to EPA stuff. Apparently highly recommended for flat tappet cams / lifters.
RRamon,
I was thinking more like this:
http://www.jegs.com/i/Comp+Cams/249/1590-12/10002/-1
Get enough to do three oil changes before the first regular oil at 3000 miles
but that stuff you got for an additive looks super cool.
Don't forget to ask the machinist how he wants you to break in the cam. IIRC it's like 3000 RPM for 30 min RIGHT when you start it up for the first time.
back to the original post:
If you don't have an oil pump primer, at least prime with the ignition safety disabled but I'd strongly suggest your prime it but turning the pump with a drill if possible on that motor. You can also get a tank of pre-pressurized oiled.
I was thinking more like this:
http://www.jegs.com/i/Comp+Cams/249/1590-12/10002/-1
Get enough to do three oil changes before the first regular oil at 3000 miles
but that stuff you got for an additive looks super cool.
Don't forget to ask the machinist how he wants you to break in the cam. IIRC it's like 3000 RPM for 30 min RIGHT when you start it up for the first time.
back to the original post:
If you don't have an oil pump primer, at least prime with the ignition safety disabled but I'd strongly suggest your prime it but turning the pump with a drill if possible on that motor. You can also get a tank of pre-pressurized oiled.
Yeah, I think a non-detergent Dino like the Rotella T and a bottle of the ZDDP is same as buying the quarts, but cheaper. I'm a bit nervous about cranking my 2FE build for the first time on the Megasquirt ECU and it not running right out of the gate - missing that breakin window. It is what it is though 
- Thread starter
- #28
yeah, it's a friends garage, and I am lucky to be able to use it. I will get the break in info from the machine shop, already plan on leaving the coil unplugged and pulling the EFI fuse then some short cranks till I see the oil pressure gauge raise. Then will hook it up and see it run. I will change the oil and filter right after the break in and then again a 300-400 miles later, but kind of depends on what the machinist recommends. thanks for all the suggestions, I will keep you posted.
Yeah, I think a non-detergent Dino like the Rotella T and a bottle of the ZDDP is same as buying the quarts, but cheaper. I'm a bit nervous about cranking my 2FE build for the first time on the Megasquirt ECU and it not running right out of the gate - missing that breakin window. It is what it is though
Ramon,
Go check at this thread at the H.A.M.B. (Hokey ass message board)
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=597135
I don't think Rotalla T is ideal - straight 30W non detergent break in oil mo bettah. Not trying to disagree, just speakin me mind man.
Rotella is high detergent oil - no bueno! Non detergent oil is what you want for a break in oil. Vital for seating rings. Will they seat with high detergent oil? Yea, but perhaps not as well.
Perhaps, things have changed but for many years that was the way to go.
Lots of gear heads chiming in about Joe Gibbs Oil - I played HS football with his son JD - maybe I'll call over to Gibbs Racing and ask for a free crate. *roll eyes* - year right. The guy would probably not give me the time of day.
http://www.blueprintengines.com/ind...n-engine-oil-requirements-flat-tappet-engines
This is where I got my info. I was seeing non-detergant too in my research, but I was having a hard time finding it at the local parts house. After reading the above that's what I went with - but in retrospect and a bit more research I see it does have detergent. I think the biggest thing is the zinc, and at this point I'm going to roll with what I already put in the motor. Maybe I'll change my mind and just drain what's in there and save it for down the road - good catch.
R
This is where I got my info. I was seeing non-detergant too in my research, but I was having a hard time finding it at the local parts house. After reading the above that's what I went with - but in retrospect and a bit more research I see it does have detergent. I think the biggest thing is the zinc, and at this point I'm going to roll with what I already put in the motor. Maybe I'll change my mind and just drain what's in there and save it for down the road - good catch.
R
- Thread starter
- #31
I have never had a oil failure using Valvoline, just saying.... 
I have never had a oil failure using Valvoline, just saying....
I agree!
There is no way that you'd have a failure for not using the correct break in oil, or for not following break in procedure or for not pre-pressurizing the oil system vs starting dry. You don't HAVE to do that stuff.
BUT!
The question is, do you want it to go another 300K miles like your factory motor or 60K to 90K like many rebuilds and especially overhauls. If you want maximum life, do the hard core break in stuff.
(I should take this advice to heart and stop eating cheeseburgers)
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #33
Well the machinist said use to run rotella 15w 40 truck oil for breaking because of the extra zinc and he said based on the heat range this engine that I should probably run it in the summer time and switch to 10w-30 in the winter. He said after 2000 miles I can run what ever I like. He said keep up what you were doing prior because the inside of the engine was very clean and showed no wear issues. I am going start putting all the externals on tomorrow, depending on how much I get done, I might even try to place the motor in as well.
Looks great Eric, so that's what they are supposed to look like when they are clean...
- Thread starter
- #38
Sorry Darin, Took off work a little early to get down there before they closed. Didn't have any spare time.
Johnny, I used Auto Machine Shop in Fayetteville. Is a small father/son shop. pretty nice guys and seem to know their trade.
That looks great, Nice work Eric