I would never weld the spider gears on the front of a street driven LandCruiser, I would consider it on a trail only vehicle. It is just to hard to steer and too hard on the birfields for my taste. I went with the ARB, although cost becomes a serious consideration there.
Yeah i agree, i wouldnt weld the front unless its a trail only. There are plenty of limited slip, electric and air lockers that you could go with, along with lots of combinations, depending on your application
I wouldn't weld the fronts ever, trail or not....even a LockRite gives some opportunity for give in the front end. You may as well plan on 1-2 birfields every weekend with the welded front.
Either weld the rear and lockrite the front (that's how mine is) or leave the front open and lockrite the rear. You achieve a (swag) 75% traction increase with a rear locker since the majority of your stucks will be uphill with the weight on the rear wheels, and when you sidestep the clutch on the mighty F motor, weight transfers to the back....(some sarcasm in there....<wink wink> )
I drive it on the road sometimes ,usually to get to the trails but never use four wheel on the road so I thought if i welded the front I would just not use 4 wheel exept on the trail but if I would weld the rear how does it drive on the road ?because I cant stop driving on the road I love all the attention to much!! thanks again
When you weld the diff its not about how it drives, its about how it turns. if you weld either the front or the rear you will have the outside tire getting bumped through the turns. Remember the outside tire has to go further when turning, so they have to be able to turn at different rates. This will occur wether the axle is in gear or not. go with one of the limited slip lockers in the front, or look into Elockers or ARB. Any of these will keep you on the street and help on the trail.
I run my welded rear on the road, rarely. I know of people who daily drive their cruisers on the road with welded rears. IMO,if you apply ANY power in a turn, the rear locker should engage, and it will act like it's welded anyways. On the highway, you'll get that "locker kick" where it coasts for a sec, then locks, then "bumps" you about 6" to one side...strange at first but very driveable once yer used to it.
You don't get that with a welded rear.
IMO, the tires "bump" thru turns regardless of locked, limited slip, or welded. I hate rear lockrites, they require too much "lash" to kick in-out on a daily driver. Full awn rear detroit is much tighter and more driveable, IMO, but for the $500 for that you may as well weld it up.
I don't think I answered your question....heh.  o you have any cruiser buddies whos rigs you can drive with a locker to see how it handles on the street? Unfortunately, the driveability of a locker/LS/welded is as much driver opinion as anything....
That said, I ran a locker in the rear of my pickup for 7 days and switched it for a TrueTrac....daily driving it sucked. Made for an expensive week....
I have had a lockrite in the rear now for a while and dont like that kick out. My wife wont even drive my cruiser because of it "not a bad thing anyway" but after all this discusion now I am leaning more towards putting my welded dif in back and lockrite up front
I thought of "Lincoln lockers" front and rear too, until I got my 80 with e-lockers. You don't want a full time locked up front. Way too much of a pain. You push the front through turns, wear yourself out, and tear up parts. Even unlocking your hubs after every obsticle will quickly convince you to go back to open fronts or a part time locker.
My 40 is staying all the way open until I move out of Chicago or get 80 axles under it.
Who the heck drives around town in 4wd??? It makes no difference what you have in the front end if your not in 4wd.
But as for welding the spiders in the front end, I thinks it's a bad idea. As long as you have a Landcruiser axle you should'nt consider anything other than an ARB. Unless you enjoy changing exploded birfields on the trail.