Weird electrical door lock problem. (1 Viewer)

[bmw635]

I have this weird electrical door lock problems .

1-Remote key unlock does not work but lock works.
2-Turn key to open 2x, no other doors open except the one key was inserted into. Turn key to lock none of the door locks, including the one key inserted into.
3-Turn key in rear hatch and all doors unlock and lock.
4-if i sit inside and remote lock, I can't unlock using switch on all doors unless insert key into ignition turn to accessories then pull key out, then lock switch works again.

Tested fine: all door light switch works, all lock actuator works, remote works. I am pretty sure of all this and done tons of research on mud but no one has problems like mine.

And ideas? Thanks.

 

[Spike555]

For s***s and giggles have you checked for broken wires in the drivers door harness?

 

[labcab]

x2 on the DS door wiring loom/conduit, or the master switch in the DS door. Although less likely, the master switch is easier to check...if you have a buddy with a 100 series nearby. Almost always a broken wire in the door though.

 

[bmw635]

Without pulling out the rubber cover of the loom between driver's kick panel and door, the rubber loom looks fine, no signs of kinks or cut.

The master switch on driver side works 100% of the time except when I lock with the remote from inside then it won't unlock but if I inserted the key into simulate disarming the alarm , then the master driver door switch will lock/unlock no problem, so this leads me to think it has to do with arming/disarming issues?

The key insert will only unlock that door and none others but that same key does not lock that door- another word: inserted will will unlock that same door but yet, it does not lock.

 

[Spike555]

You have to cut that rubber boot open.
When using the key in the door, you are not using the master switch. You are manually unlocking the door, the second turn of the key then sends a signal via the master switch to the rest of the doors.
My money is on broken wires.

 

[labcab]

I have this weird electrical door lock problems...
2-Turn key to open 2x, no other doors open except the one key was inserted into. Turn key to lock none of the door locks, including the one key inserted into.

With a dead battery and/or no actuators, your key should mechanically lock and unlock the front door it is inserted in. It's unlikely there's a mechanical issue with both locks at the same time, so check that before digging into the wiring. Are you able to manually unlock/lock the PS door? Or is it more that when you lock either of the doors manually, it immediately triggers the whole system to unlock? If it's just the DS not locking, then I'd suspect something wrong with the rod or wire highlighted below.

1-Remote key unlock does not work but lock works.

If the issue above is a mechanical one, it could impact the "Door Unlock Detection Switch Circuit" or the "Door Key Lock and Unlock Switch Circuit" preventing the remote from unlocking.

3-Turn key in rear hatch and all doors unlock and lock.

I believe this is normal operation

4-if i sit inside and remote lock, I can't unlock using switch on all doors unless insert key into ignition turn to accessories then pull key out, then lock switch works again.

Again, I believe this is normal operation of the theft deterrent system. Even though it sounds like it's not fully arming, it is disabling/enabling the master switch as intended.

Tested fine: all door light switch works, all lock actuator works, remote works. I am pretty sure of all this and done tons of research on mud but no one has problems like mine...And ideas? Thanks.

1. Get the FSM and EWD for your year. It's a bit more complicated than just the systems/circuits above, but there are inspection procedures, diagnostics and tests for everything. The answer is in there if you're willing to dig. I've pasted some useful links below from the 2004 FSM floating around, but it's better to get your own hard copy.

http://dustbird.com/ih8mud/FSM/Body Electrical.pdf
pg. 127 - inspection/testing of power door lock control system
http://dustbird.com/ih8mud/FSM/EWD.pdf
pg. 379 - Wireless Door Lock Control - System Outline
http://dustbird.com/ih8mud/FSM/Diagnostics.pdf
pg. 991 - lots of good information on the normal operation of the alarm

2. Open up the boot/loom. It's not as bad as it seems, you will be going in there eventually, and there's probably a broken wire or stripped insulation in there that may or may not be the cause of your issue. Get used to pulling the door panels off. A little practice and you can do it in under 5 minutes. Great write-up here: Door panel removal process

3. Replace your actuator motors. They get weak and dirty and are well known to spawn electrical gremlins...even when they appear to be working normally. Replace your speakers "while you're in there."

4. Aftermarket keyless entry/remote start system - the kid at the local car audio place can solve all your problems in a few hours for a couple $100. My OEM fob hasn't worked right since 2003, but the Viper I had installed 13 years ago keeps on ticking. The range crushes the OEM system and remote start is an amazing thing. Plus, these days they make them without the "alarms" and not waking up the neighbors and babies in the middle of the night is a bonus in my book. They go around all the OEM systems and just apply 12-volts to your lock/unlock relays, so many of the issues you're experiencing won't matter to the installer.

Good luck!
Dean

 

[bmw635]

Thanks to all that gave me lots of info. After numerous checking on wires in the loom, lock solonoid, etc... I found one of the white plastic tabs that hold this lock sensor to the passenger key cyclinder broke so the sensor was not touching the cyclinder so it may not detect somethimg. Zip tying both of these tight against the key cyclinder, the remote lock/unlock and key turn lock/unlock function works normal again. Thanks again.

Peter

 

[Spike555]

Thank you for reporting back what the problem and fix was.
Now when someone else searches they will find a cure instead of just a open ended thread.

 

[bmw635]

Yea, found lots of thread about remote lock/unlock problem but only 3-4 threads that actually had a solution and unfortunately, none of it had my symptoms. Thanks for your contribution.

 

[reznunt]

Thank you for reporting back what the problem and fix was.
Now when someone else searches they will find a cure instead of just a open ended thread.

EXACTLY. I'm going to look at my lock sensors now. Thanks @bmw635

 

[YardPig]

Did he just help a weak lock actuator? Summer brings heat, heat brings resistance...

 

[bmw635]

Did he just help a weak lock actuator? Summer brings heat, heat brings resistance...

This problem was definitely the sensor in the pics. After zip tying the sensor to the cylinder it works. I checked and removed the other door's sensor to test and the remote unlock didn't work until I zip tied it back. Also, I rebuilt 2 lock actuators in my 80 and 4 in my wife's spare Rx 300, I know problems with actuators so this wasn't it.

 

[reznunt]

This problem was definitely the sensor in the pics. After zip tying the sensor to the cylinder it works. I checked and removed the other door's sensor to test and the remote unlock didn't work until I zip tied it back. Also, I rebuilt 2 lock actuators in my 80 and 4 in my wife's spare Rx 300, I know problems with actuators so this wasn't it.

My door locks were going crazy... cycling while driving and even when the car is just parked and off. The keyfob stopped working completely. Also, my alarm would go off just by unlocking the driver door using the key/cylinder. All of these symptoms came after the weather hit over 100 degrees. I noticed weak locks in three doors so I replaced all 5 of my actuator motors today which fixed that issue but it did not solve the possessed door lock issue.

My next attempt was to clean the lock cylinder sensors. I cleaned the trunk lock cylinder sensor first since two people on the forum said it solved their similar issues. No joy. Then I did the passenger door. Still nothing. Then I found it... the culprit was a dirty driver door lock cylinder sensor that wasn't registering properly. A little electronics cleaner and some grease on the o-ring and I was in business. THANK THE LC GODS this one is over. F the door locks!

At least I was able to refinish my speaker grill covers "while I was in there."

 

[AstRomroMan]

Thanks to all that gave me lots of info. After numerous checking on wires in the loom, lock solonoid, etc... I found one of the white plastic tabs that hold this lock sensor to the passenger key cyclinder broke so the sensor was not touching the cyclinder so it may not detect somethimg. Zip tying both of these tight against the key cyclinder, the remote lock/unlock and key turn lock/unlock function works normal again. Thanks again.

Peter

View attachment 1481071

Can you give me any more specifics on were this part is located, and what it actually is. I want to inspect mine, as I am having a similar issue, but I am not clear on what to look for. Thanks!

 

[FrankieJoe14]

Wrong thread whoops

 

[aljogav]

Does anyone know if we can buy this part from the dealer or somewhere. Is it identical to any of the other models, like a Camry? I too broke one of the tabs of this lock sensor and would like to buy a replacement.

 

[FrankieJoe14]

Check my thread on that - Drivers Door Lock Cylinder Sensor

Specifically post #16 - Drivers Door Lock Cylinder Sensor

And post #18 - Drivers Door Lock Cylinder Sensor

It did nothing for me.

 

[aljogav]

Check my thread on that - Drivers Door Lock Cylinder Sensor

Specifically post #16 - Drivers Door Lock Cylinder Sensor

And post #18 - Drivers Door Lock Cylinder Sensor

It did nothing for me.

Thanks for the info. The part is not currently available, so I JB Weld one of the tabs that broke and so far it's holding up. But glad this forum helped diagnose the problem. Thanks guys!

 

[TPTTB]

Hey guys, having similar issues with my 2000 LC. I know I have a couple of actuators that are starting to croak (started acting up in the heat this summer), but my other issues are what is concerning me:

• Doors are locking on their own repeatedly. This occurs while driving, as well as with the vehicle off. The doors are all physically locked (the lock switches on the interior door handles are set to lock, yet the vehicle continues to send the lock signal and you hear the clunking of the actuators). I'm having to disconnect my battery at the moment to stop this from happening.
• Often (not always), using the key fob to unlock the vehicle will set off the alarm. Opening driver side door with key, then repeating the unlock key on the fob will deactivate the alarm.
• The DS rear and rear hatch doors do not fully unlock always. The levers turn but not all the way and the doors have to be opened from the inside. They seem to lock on their own just fine though...

I've read several threads on door locks, actuators, and some of the weird gremlin issues like the ones I'm describing. I haven't quite seen anything definitive explaining the behavior I'm seeing. Does anyone in this thread have any updates on how you solved your issues, or have any suggestions for where to start with mine?