Weboost Antenna: Cable Splicing & Connectors (1 Viewer)

[Heritage 2020]

Greetings All,

The previous owner of my Heritage did such a clean install of Weboost, that everything is buried/hidden/invisible. Cleanest install I’ve ever seen and I’ve seen a few.

That said, I need to replace the big antenna at the top of the mast mounted on the back of my truck. The plastic top antenna part looks like it lost a fight with a hard surface—so I bought a replacement antenna.

Has anyone cut/spliced the antenna cable and mounted weather resistant screw together connectors? This would allow a far easier/simpler repair if I could attach a coupler vs. re routing the entire thing into the recesses of the truck.

Note: I’m not concerned about losing a few points on reception. I’m looking at ease.

Thoughts? Any input is greatly appreciated.

 

[cboyd]

Every splice and split loses “at best” 3db of signal gain, given the marginal gain that it gets in the first place, it’s not advisable to splice it, which is why they hardwire the antenna in the first place.

If you do move ahead with splice, I would advise having a radio shop or an experienced ham guy do it - the LMR coax requires some special tools and connectors. If you’re comfortable with that, you can get the correct rated size connector from HamRadio outlet or somewhere equivalent.

 

[Heritage 2020]

Every splice and split loses “at best” 3db of signal gain, given the marginal gain that it gets in the first place, it’s not advisable to splice it, which is why they hardwire the antenna in the first place.

If you do move ahead with splice, I would advise having a radio shop or an experienced ham guy do it - the LMR coax requires some special tools and connectors. If you’re comfortable with that, you can get the correct rated size connector from HamRadio outlet or somewhere equivalent.

Thank you for such a quick response. I’m going to have a professional radio/ham splice it (now just have to find one).

The way the previous owner had it professionally installed—the antennas/receivers, etc. are all very well OEM looking.

If I lose a few db, that’s good.

Now I have to look around TN to see who can do this.

Thank you again.

 

[lx200inAR]

A properly completed straight splice will not cause a 3db loss. 2-way signal splitters will cause a 3db (half the power) loss because you are literally splitting the available power across two paths.

Depending on which model kit you have, it looks like that cable is either RG-58 or RG-6.

The 311229 antenna kit (4G Trucker) is a 16ft RG58 (50ohm) cable.
The 311230 antenna kit (4G RV OTR) is a 25ft RG6 (75ohm) cable.

There are some other kits that use LMR, but not with that antenna. With it being either of these types of cables. You could probably easily splice in some F connectors, or if you have a different replacement antenna in mind, a connector to adapt to that antenna. With this being for RF, you definitely want to make sure you have good connections, but it's not rocket science.

I didn't look hard, but it appears there is only one part number for the booster, and it is 50ohm. If i had a 50ohm cable I'd want to splice with a 50ohm part and if i had a 75 ohm cable i'd want to splice with a 75ohm part. There isn't too much loss having a mismatched cable to the antenna receiver on the booster, so this is possibly the reason Wilson would spec antennas systems with different impedance. Going solely on pictures, if you have a kit that came with two masts, that appears to be the "Trucker" version and would be the RG58 50ohm cable.

 

[Heritage 2020]

A properly completed straight splice will not cause a 3db loss. 2-way signal splitters will cause a 3db (half the power) loss because you are literally splitting the available power across two paths.

Depending on which model kit you have, it looks like that cable is either RG-58 or RG-6.

The 311229 antenna kit (4G Trucker) is a 16ft RG58 (50ohm) cable.
The 311230 antenna kit (4G RV OTR) is a 25ft RG6 (75ohm) cable.

There are some other kits that use LMR, but not with that antenna. With it being either of these types of cables. You could probably easily splice in some F connectors, or if you have a different replacement antenna in mind, a connector to adapt to that antenna. With this being for RF, you definitely want to make sure you have good connections, but it's not rocket science.

I didn't look hard, but it appears there is only one part number for the booster, and it is 50ohm. If i had a 50ohm cable I'd want to splice with a 50ohm part and if i had a 75 ohm cable i'd want to splice with a 75ohm part. There isn't too much loss having a mismatched cable to the antenna receiver on the booster, so this is possibly the reason Wilson would spec antennas systems with different impedance. Going solely on pictures, if you have a kit that came with two masts, that appears to be the "Trucker" version and would be the RG58 50ohm cable.

Thank you and I will take this to a pro shop.

It is aesthetic as the Weboost works perfectly.

My goal is to make it easier if a repair is required in the future. That way the antenna is a plug and play.

 

[radman]

It’s easy with these and a crimper. There’s a guy on YouTube that just solders them without crimp.

No signal loss.

Eightwood 10pcs SMA Female... Amazon product ASIN B00UFDIGUS

 

[cboyd]

Good to have other eyes in on this.

I just was talking to Weboost at Expo, looking to add this, and I could have sworn the new kit was LMR-240 but as others have said, if it is RG6, that’s a bit more straight forward.

 

[Mrtwooooo]

I know you said you already bought a replacement antenna. But look at the antenna that comes with the RV version of the drive reach.
The RV antenna has a short piece of cable, maybe 2-3’ long and then a connector. The RV kit then comes with a separate long cable that connects the antenna to the amplifier box.
This would solve your splicing problem. Honestly wish all of them came like this.

Note in the photo below the short cable coming off the outside antenna with a connector on the end.

 

[Mrtwooooo]

Also just noticed the EAW tag in one of the photos. That lot is right down the road from me.

 

[Heritage 2020]

I know you said you already bought a replacement antenna. But look at the antenna that comes with the RV version of the drive reach.
The RV antenna has a short piece of cable, maybe 2-3’ long and then a connector. The RV kit then comes with a separate long cable that connects the antenna to the amplifier box.
This would solve your splicing problem. Honestly wish all of them came like this.

Note in the photo below the short cable coming off the outside antenna with a connector on the end.
View attachment 3163942

Yes, when I looked at a YouTube video on installing the antenna, it showed a gentleman installing an RV version (screw on connectors). I was surprised to find that was not the case with mine. I called a local audio/stereo shop and they said they’d put some connectors on so I can do the same—if ever the antenna needs replacing again. I’ll share the outcome after I get it done tomorrow.

 

[Heritage 2020]

Also just noticed the EAW tag in one of the photos. That lot is right down the road from me.

My wife and I have nothing but good to say about EAW. For us it is worth the drive.

 

[Heritage 2020]

Hi All,

Best Buy(r) took care of me on Veterans Day and it was unexpected. I am very thankful.

They installed connectors on the Weboost antenna cable that allow for plug and play—in the event that I ever need to replace the antenna in the future.

My wife and I have AT&T and Verizon. We drove to known “dead spots”—where signal is non-existent, or extremely poor at best. Great connectivity!

The fix worked and the Weboost delivers as promised—even with the connectors installed.

NOTE: Photos are post-repair after they put plastic covers over the antenna wire.

Again, I did not expect Best Buy(r) to do what they did, but as a Veteran I surely appreciated it.

 

[Fisher23]

nice

 

[jmw101]

That's awesome @Heritage 2020 . Congrats.

That is a great looking truck !