Water tempature for 3B motor

[haryv]

I have and even worked on LOTs of Gas vehicles in my time but wonder about this BJ-60 diesel engine. Onwer had it flushed two weeks before selling it to me 2 weeks ago and water was green with antifreeze. Now its brown with some green in it. What would be the cause other then a bad ground between frame and block? I inpected the engine yesterday and both grounds were hooked up between engine mother mount on passanger side to right inner wheel well and left engine block to left inner wheel well.

I want to know what the radiator temp should be when fully warmed up. How long should it warm up to operating temp? What should the heater core..that is, what should be the output temp from the heater core when the engine is faily warm? The air that is blowing out from the heater core is luke warm at best. I did these observations when the tempature here was 50F or 10C here in vancouver BC Canada. Also, At what tempature should I raise the front radiator curtain/shade for normal operating tempatures?

I am also looking for a Air pressure to water house adapter and flush out the cooling system. Does anyone know any on the market?

Harryv

 

[Eric Winkworth]

above 180 F and below 230 F somewhere around 210.

Don't see a ground being a problem, As for the pressure or heater core it's self I know nothin about, someone will though. Luke warm air sounds fairmilier, it should get fairly toasty as long as it is above -25C

keep in mind I don't even have a curtain on my rig

 

[brownbear]

ya use the curtain.

maybe you need a theromostate. David 70 just posted the 88C one on the other coolant thread.

Brown colour doesn't sound good. Some better people than me can reply.

I like to use the curtain anytime in winter.

My BJ60 is a slow warmer too, but when it does get to temp its hot air coming out of the vents.

Actually all diesels are slow to temp.

 

[stasis1]

Now does your water color like rusty browny muddy colored? My 3b takes abt 10 min to warm up during summer and stays just above 1/4 ,ark on the temp gauge. Are you losing any liquid? Check your oil dipstick and hope you dont see a white colores stuff on the dipsticl it means water is in the oil.
As for flushing i think just go get a radiator flush and drive it at a fluctuating Rpm so the water can gush out watever its in there. How do you get the raitor water out from your 3b? I did it by undoing the hose the connects the engine to the radiator. It underneath the radiator on the lower right hand corner if you see the radiator from the top side.
After you take out the flushing agent rehook the hose but leave it half way hooked so it leaks water out and a fast rate. Then just put a garden hose into the radiator from the top and turn the tap on and let the engine run. Keep and eye on the water thats gushin at the bottom till its clear then you know your cooling system is clean.
For me i put only RO (reverse Osmosis) water into my radiator with the coolant. If you have snow use snow water if not rain water. But for rain water you have to wait for about 10 min into the rain then you start collecting the rain water. Same for the snow. Cos is the purest water of all

 

[haryv]

Eric Winkworth,

Thanks for the info on the water temp. Will go out and buy a tempature gage and check the water temp at the radiator cap neck for temp between the numbers you said. Heater output from heater core is luke warm. owner never knew he had to flush the radiator untill he sprang a leak one day. BTW, is there over temp bulps on these engines to indicate that the engine may have been over heated? It drives fin no water/oil loose at all!

Mabey all the sediment never was flushed out with the last radiator replacment /flush

 

[cruiser_guy]

Backflush the heater core! My BJ60 always has hot toasty air but once in January the heater core blocked up and I had NO heat.
I'd question the head. 3B's are notorious for cracked heads.

 

[Eric Winkworth]

Yep service intervals being neglected, can clog your rad and like said before your heater core, you can buy rad flush, and follow the directions on the bottle, you wouldn't believe the crud that will come out.

As for indication bulbs I don't think so, I think some signs of a head issue would be, excess smoking, using coolent, and coolent in oil, but someone else can clarify that better, mine actually smokes a little at the stop light from the hood, mostly from he stink pipe, you notice it more with lights on at night.

As for the rad cap gauge, just buy a mechnical gauge and screw it into the plug right under you thermostat on the housing there is a plug there, and it is a good spot to put it, nice and simple, spend the money and get a good gauge. Like an isspro. A mechnical oil pressure gauge is a good idea, too. As said before by someone, a pyro is worth is weight in gold, they can save you alot of money.

if your 3b has been over heated, I'm pretty sure they have a zinc head, as siad before there has been alot of talk in the past, about them crackin when ran in excess temps.

good luck
cheers

 

[haryv]

Eric, Im not saying my engine was over heated.

I was checking out a nissan diesel few weeks ago and it said in the engine rebuild it has some kind of over temp bulb or some kind of mechanical indicator that if the engine should over heat, it would pop,change color or what ever it does thus making the engine warentee void. I was more or less curios if these engines had something like this.

I am loosing no water and no water in oil. There is some oil consumption though. Backflushing the cooling system my be a good idea. Also putting a air pressure hose on a back flusher causes pulses on the cooling system and takes out all the crud.
I need also a oil pressure transmitter. The owner said it was not working but it drove fine. Local Lordco store has them for 45 dollars and I suspect thats as cheap as thay can go.

You also said these heads are notorius for cracking? thats great. Not what I wanted to hear. How often and what types of cracks are we talking about? A balpark figure what it would take to repair one would be nice to know if some day my head were to develop cracks.

 

[cruiser_guy]

Chances are 50% of the heads out there in running trucks are cracked (I have yet to tear down a 3B WITHOUT a cracked head and I've done 3-4). Usually between the valves but it's not a problem if you're not loosing coolant. IF your head does eventually go I'd get an aftermarket alloy head instead of the OEM. Figure about $1000 CDN for either an OEM or aftermarket.

 

[mallred]

Chances are 50% of the heads out there in running trucks are cracked (I have yet to tear down a 3B WITHOUT a cracked head and I've done 3-4). Usually between the valves but it's not a problem if you're not loosing coolant. IF your head does eventually go I'd get an aftermarket alloy head instead of the OEM. Figure about $1000 CDN for either an OEM or aftermarket.

Speaking of heads I was changing valve seals and lost air pressure and dropped a valve so the head is coming off. I have been worried about it maybe being cracked. When I was younger I worked in a truck shop and the 71 series detriots were notorius for this and we would have then welded and new seats put in. Has this been tried in the 3Bs ?

 

[brownbear]

Hey check this out,

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=59927

older thread. Rust in your coolant?

 

[brownbear]

You also said these heads are notorius for cracking? thats great. Not what I wanted to hear. How often and what types of cracks are we talking about? A balpark figure what it would take to repair one would be nice to know if some day my head were to develop cracks.

Ya notorious for cracked heads, but they also are notorious for getting half a million kms out of them. RELAX.

Buy a pyro, its a good investment into the life of your engine. Also a gadget to gawk at other than your radios

 

[haryv]

yea, my heater hoses are crunchy.

I was squezing them the other day and found thay were crunchy. Was think is this the inside rubber breaking down? but mabey a layer of caked on rust that built up on the inside of these hoses. I will be replacing them and then have the coolant power flushed with air pressure. This may explain why im getting that less then warm air out of the heater core and it mabey partially plugged.

Harryv

 

[crushers]

Speaking of heads I was changing valve seals and lost air pressure and dropped a valve so the head is coming off. I have been worried about it maybe being cracked. When I was younger I worked in a truck shop and the 71 series detriots were notorius for this and we would have then welded and new seats put in. Has this been tried in the 3Bs ?

yes, there is a possibility that the head and or prechambers will be cracked. there have been a few 3B heads that have been welded and remachined. there is a place in Montreal that will do this for about $300 (if i remember correctly).
cheers

 

[brownbear]

I was squezing them the other day and found thay were crunchy. Was think is this the inside rubber breaking down? but mabey a layer of caked on rust that built up on the inside of these hoses. I will be replacing them and then have the coolant power flushed with air pressure. This may explain why im getting that less then warm air out of the heater core and it mabey partially plugged.

Harryv

flush out your heater core hoses individually, diconnect them from the engine and hook up a hose and use slight pressure and(go slow) see if anything comes outs. you can get a barbed end to do the hose. one hose is 5/8 inch/ other 3/4, get 10 feet of each. I think the 5/8 is used more. But can't remember. You will need to replace these too. So all you need is an upper and lower rad hose. Plus this heater hose. Then heavy flushing with a hose........Good luck.

Look at all the frost plugs. Could be your truck sat for long period and had areas in the coolant system rust. then when driving again it stirs it up........crazy eh?