Was it the front drive assembly/CV Axles? Maybe. Maybe Not. Help me figure this out.

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I've had a bone jarring shake when accelerating between 40-70 mph in my new-to-me UZJ100L . It goes away once you reach cruising speed/aren't accelerating or putting everything under load.

First mechanic's diagnosis: Lot of slop in the CV Joints/Axles. They need to be replaced. They had been replaced 7K ago. Axles under warranty. Labor would be only cost.

Had it done. Shake is still there but is slightly less jarring.

Second opinions sought (after axles replaced)

Toyota Dealership: Takes off rear drive shaft. Drives it and tech says it's a combination of: 1. Extreme angle of CV axles as result of lift. 2. Spacer on one side of the vehicle and not other. 3. Differential needs to be lowered on one side. They tell me that Toyota won't work on it because of after market suspension (ICON) and I should take it to local shop that specializes in suspension (They recommend one).

Suspension shop: Toyota doesn't know what they are talking about. There are spacers on both sides. The lift is minimal - maybe 1-1.5". The angle isn't extreme. All of the suspension work (not done by them by the way) looks first class and perfect. Shake feels to them like it is more in the back than front but can't be sure because all-time 4wd. They check the U-Joints. Everything is tight. No great recommendation on next steps to figure it out other than taking to a drive-line specialist. (They spent about 2 hours going over the vehicle, and the guy doing it is a former Toyota Tech). Discover a slight diff seal leak on new driveshaft/cv axle assembly.

I go back to mechanic who installed the cv axles and he fixes/replaces diff seal. During our conversation, I tell him it's still shaking under load and he says "Yeah, I know. It's the angle of the cv axles. You need axles that are longer." He proceeds to explain how the bearings aren't moving back and forth because of the angle and are sticking in place, which is what caused the more exacerbated problem I was having but that it would just happen again. Last time it took about 7K miles of highway driving. He also said the shaft isn't going far enough into the differential. He said they will just continue to sit in the same spot instead of moving back and forth, wear down like they did previously.

So, I have a dealership that gets a little bit right but is suspect because they miss a lot on their inspection. I've got a mechanic who tells me something that tracks logically. And then I have one of two of the best suspension shops in our area with a mechanic (not just some kid slinging parts) who says that he doesn't see any way that it's the angle or the front end suspension that it could be an out-of-balance driveshaft, possibly something with the differentials, possibly something with the transmission or possibly something with the transfer case or torque converter - a laundry list of things that he couldn't really check out or figure out in the time he had with the machine.

Other folks' experience? Thoughts? How would you proceed in diagnosing. I'm not much on shotgun approaches and just spending money on "hopefully this fixes it."
 
What’s your fender to center of hub measurement?

You can isolate front/back by locking the tcase and removing front or rear drive shaft as a start. Lots of things cause vibrations under acceleration and it’s often a combination of things.
 
I know a lot of people on this forum have had issues with aftermarket CV axles either with vibration or longevity. I've only ever used OEM mostly (on my 04LC) without issue – what brand axles are they using? A few photos might be helpful of front knuckles. The experts will hopefully weigh in soon.
 
What’s your fender to center of hub measurement?

You can isolate front/back by locking the tcase and removing front or rear drive shaft as a start. Lots of things cause vibrations under acceleration and it’s often a combination of things.
one thing the toyota dealership did was remove the rear drive shaft and they said that the front end shake was bone jarring once they did that. The center of the hub to fender is less that +1 inch from factory specs and that is running a larger/taller tire than factory recommended.
 
I know a lot of people on this forum have had issues with aftermarket CV axles either with vibration or longevity. I've only ever used OEM mostly (on my 04LC) without issue – what brand axles are they using? A few photos might be helpful of front knuckles. The experts will hopefully weigh in soon.
The axles that were under warranty on the machine were O'Reilly's Import Direct brand, which is supposedly their upper end OE replacements. Will try and get some pics here in a bit.
 
A torque converter shudder feels like driving on a rumble strip on the side of the road, and happens on slower speeds, usually below 45mph.

Too bad you're getting different diagnosis from 3 different mechanics, which I'm sure you had to pay for, and none got to the bottom of the problem.

Vibes under acceleration only point usually to drivetrain, so probably axles/drive shafts/transfer case. All very expensive. But other issues might increase the vibrations.

Sadly a remote diagnosis is almost impossible, specially when dealing with vibrations, so you might get several opinions from aftermarket axles issues to bad driveshafts, and each one requires replacing or repairing, which costs more money..

Have you considered doing the free stuff first? Like lowering your front suspension by turning the 30mm nut? It's free.. and if you have an angle issue it'll be immediately noticeable. Maybe the axles are bad already, but it will feel different.

Did you check you have all lug nuts and they're properly torqued?

Also a quick inspection of the front hubs, just lift each front wheel by placing the factory jack to the closest point to the tire under the lower control arm, and start wiggling the wheel, specially with hands placed 0-180 deg, that may expose a play in your bearings. Doing the same at 90-270deg will force the steering components, maybe showing bad tie rods or bushings...placing a long bar under the tire while in the air and forcing the tire up may reveal a play in your lower ball joint, which can cause issues as well as being dangerous.

For the rear axle, check for play on the rear control arms, there are 4 of them and 8 joints, and look for excessive play while sticking a fat screwdriver between the arm joint and the frame, applying torque to force an axial movement. Or have someone drive and brake kind of aggressively next to you and look for abnormal play (or noise) between rear wheel and fender/bumper (this will work for fronts too, I usually apply brake and accelerate at same time to force the control arms, just careful with the axle splines, they might snap if done by a gorilla).
Or even better, lift the rear from the frame and get the rear wheels on the air to force the axle front and back.. ( caution needed here, chock fronts and use decent stands..).

Or just get a 0% Credit card and start shooting with a parts cannon, that's what I do.. :beer:
 
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