Warping rotors theory

[reffug]

Has the theory that people in IL just don't know how to drive been floated yet?

Sheesh

 

[tenncrusher]

I use EBC on my motorcycles...dirt and road....and have had good luck. This is interesting....but I recall putting stainless braided lines on an older Ducati...changing the stock rubber lines.....prior to the replacement of the lines I had pulsing....I could never decide why it dissapeared....did the old lines have air in them? I did not question it as I no longer had pulsing brakes.......as for my 1996 FZJ80, I replaced with 80 pads and OEM rotors and they did not pulse for awhile....but it is back....my rears (oem) do not pulse, but they had previously warped.....I do not use parking brake unless I absolutely must.

 

[Rusty Phillips]

Hi Gumby,

Another vote for the brake-deposits-on-rotor theory.

the more I think about this the more Im inclined to agree

from
http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/warped_rotors_myth.htm

Similarly, even if the brakes are properly broken, if, when they are very hot or following a single long stop from high speed, the brakes are kept applied after the vehicle comes to a complete stop it is possible to leave a telltale deposit behind that looks like the outline of a pad. This kind of deposit is called pad imprinting and looks like the pad was inked for printing like a stamp and then set on the disc face. It is possible to see the perfect outline of the pad on the disc. FIGURE 5

so in the "pad material depositing on the rotors theory", the worst case scenario is to be going downhill on the interstate at 80+ mph with a fully loaded cruiser (and god forbid a trailer too) and having to come to a complete stop for some reason and then keep the brakes applied to prevent rolling forward into the vehical in front of you.

how many times have we all done that????

the more I think about it, I'm inclined to think it is better for the brakes to slow from 90 mph to 10mph and immediately let off the brakes than to slow from 80 mph to a dead stop and holding the brake pedal down.

 

[Rusty Phillips]

also from that stoptech white paper

All high performance after market discs and pads should come with both installation and break in instructions. The procedures are very similar between manufacturers. With respect to the pads, the bonding resins must be burned off relatively slowly to avoid both fade and uneven deposits. The procedure is several stops of increasing severity with a brief cooling period between them. After the last stop, the system should be allowed to cool to ambient temperature. Typically, a series of ten increasingly hard stops from 60mph to 5 mph with normal acceleration in between should get the job done for a high performance street pad. During pad or disc break-in, do not come to a complete stop, so plan where and when you do this procedure with care and concern for yourself and the safety of others. If you come to a complete stop before the break-in process is completed there is the chance for non-uniform pad material transfer or pad imprinting to take place and the results will be what the whole process is trying to avoid. Game over.

 

[Gumby]

In deference to this theory, which sounds plausable, but is the only place I have ever heard it, I break in pads with this method. I have a big parking lot to do it in. Otherwise the premise that you could go from 5-60-5 without actually stopping is kinda silly.

Does not explain why the rears on my problem 80s keep warping.

I beleive reffug may be right.

 

[kenton]

The whole deposit thing for me is utter Bull****!! Yes I spelled it out! Anyone who has done brake jobs and actually has turned drums and rotors will tell you that they can warp.

Some a****** starts a web site that states that all pulsing problems are deposits on the rotors and a bunch of lemmings start jumping on the band wagon.

I have personally seen warped rotors! Now someone who has done 100 or so brake jobs and fixed pulsing problems without ever turning the drums or rotors please reply.

The whole absolutist statement thing for me is indicative of lack of clear thinking. Anyone who has felt pulsating brakes, observed non-uniform rotor appearance, driven a few miles to remove those marks, and subsequently felt the absence or reduction of pulsation will tell you that warped rotors is not the right answer to all pulsating brake problems. Easy answer? maybe. Cheap, and fair to the customer? No.

I have personally seen pulsating brake problems cured without turning or replacing rotors! Now someone who doesn't make silly inflammatory non-sequiturs please reply.

Kenton

 

[Rusty Phillips]

the premise that you could go from 5-60-5 without actually stopping is kinda silly.

I think the series of ten stops of increasing severity from 60 to 5 is geared more towards racing cars and racing pads on a racing track, thus overkill for our needs

 

[landtank]

I've had deposits of something on my rotors that I just lightly sanded off and then cleaned with brake clean and it straightened out the prolem. But there was never any pulsing in the pedal or in the steering wheel. I never said that it couldn't or didn't happen just that the idea that all pulsing problem could be reolved without turning the rototrs was rediculous. This has been brought up serveral times and the web site has been quoted often.